Terroir France has an interesting interview with Jean-Philippe Delmas of Château Haut Brion. Six pages. http://www.terroir-france.com/interview/haut-brion.htm

Wine Tasting Note: Oscar Brillant Menetou-Salon Blanc, 2000, Loire, France.
From Wine Parcels for £9.99.
One of a number of small parcels just released by Wine-Parcels. This is a Sauvignon Blanc from one of the lesser parts of the Loire. Menetou-Salon neighbours Sancerre but tends, due to a change in soil type (from pure limestone to a mix of limestone and sandstone), to have a less mineral style than its neighbour.

This is demonstrated by this particular wine. The classic characteristics of the Sauvignon Blanc grape are evident - crisp acidity underpinning a good weight - but the minerality really only appears on the finish. The aroma is gently honyed with a grassy freshness to the flavours. I rather like it.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

Looking for something unique and interesting for your next Wine Blogging Wednesday contribution - how about the Italian Sagrantino grape?

The Ministry of Agriculture and the Regional Government has said it will restrict planting of Sagrantino to its traditional zone in Umbrian in wines labelled Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG. The issue has caused some debate in Italy, especially after interim lists of approved varieties permitted Sagrantino to be planted in neighbouring Tuscany, with one side arguing that the variety should remain exclusive, while others say that its value should not be lost to the rest of Italian winemaking.

Marco Caprai, the man credited with single-handedly reviving the fortunes of Sagrantino in Montefalco, points out that the issue is not just about the biological variety but the culture that produces such unique wines in Montefalco. He is concerned that this aspect will be lost in squabbling over the variety between wine sectors that do not necessarily understand its cultural context.

"What does the word "Napa" on a bottle mean? The debate has reached the U.S. Supreme Court."
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?
f=/c/a/2005/02/24/WIGGQBFEFQ1.DTL

Over at the BBC - which wines to go with Rioja (lamb), Shiraz/Syrah (Oxtail, pork belly, poached pheasant) and Argentinean Malbec (beed). Includes three recipes for each.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/
mostof_winterwineandfood.shtml

Off-line nationwide retailer Threshers is ditching its up-market food and wine concept. It purchased Leaping Salmon last year but the format has failed. Reports state that more food was thrown away than sold. Personally throwing posh food into any old grubby offie was bound to fail. In certain up-market areas I can see this working if they advertised it correctly; which they didn't.

The company is also reported that the popular 'buy two get one free' offer is to spread-out across ALL price points.

When I first read Lenn's posting suggesting that bloggers indicate which samples were received free (against those he purchased himself) I was all for the idea. After all we (we being independent wine writers/bloggers) need to maintain our honesty and provide our readers will as much detail as possible. The Professor agrees too.

However there are some persuasive arguments against this over at Vivis Journal for example. They end their comments with "Don't do it Man" in big capital letters.

So now I don't know.

Over the years in producing the Scribblings Newsletter, writing tasting notes on UKWinesOnline and now in this weblog too, I have prided myself on being impartial. Some samples I have received I have not written up because they were bad/off/corked or because they did not fit into the theme of the moment. Would it have made much difference to building up a loyal readership if I had stated that wine x was brought by myself but wine z was supplied as a sample? Are weblogs and independent websites at a stage where their authority (even if written by someone with AIWS after their name) are still derided with the 'real writing' in nationally printed publications the 'be-all and end-all' and you only of importance if you have a book out or have appeared in traditional print?

This posting sums up a Five Point Blogging Ethic.

The last remaining bottle of the world's oldest single malt whisky left Scotland for Hong Kong, where it will be the star attraction at an airport shop. The Glenfiddich Rare Collection 1937 is expected to sell for over £10,000.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/4298619.stm

A new system of labeling wines from the Languedoc is to be introduced from this years harvest. The new 'Languedoc' designation will require the region to organise its wines into a hierarchy according to vineyard and village. Will this aid the creation of consumer-friendly brands or just confuse the appellation rules even more?

Interested in cognac or armagnac? This article, while positioned to the bar owner/staff is full of information for those with a passing interest. Several cocktail recipes included too.
http://www.thepublican.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?id=16415&d=11

This wine is offered in support of Wine Blogging #7; an 'introduction' if you like to three 'unusual' grape varieties. Casa Santos Lima is a family-run winery in Alenquer north of Lisbon. They maintain 160 hectares of vineyards which are planted with local native varieties including Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and the three grapes that go into this blend – Castelão, Tinta Miúda and Camarate.

Tinta Miúda means ‘small red grape’ there is some speculation that it could be the Spanish Graciano, the French Morrastell, although several books I have read dismiss this. Camarate is a synonym for Casteláo Naçional, about which I know little and I assume Castelão is Castelão Francês (aka Periquita the ‘small parrot’). This should impart a raspberry flavour to a wine that gains more tar like qualities as it ages.

Wine Tasting Note: Quinta Vista Bin 1386, 2003, Estramadura, Portugal.
Available from Oddbins for £5.49.
The wine itself has a subdued aroma – summer fruits perhaps and fresh peas. Odd but it was there. Initially sweet blackberry fruit dominate but that disappears leaving rustic, gravely tannins on the finish. That rusticity remains when tried with food (something equally rustic) but overall the wine was more rounded, as it was designed to be, with food. Interesting rather than hugely enjoyable.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100

Wine Blogging Wednesday #7 – Wine Rummage.

This month we are chucking out the Cabernet. Ignoring the Merlot too. Out goes the Syrah, the Tempranillo, the Pinot and the Sangiovese. Yep all gone. Quickly followed by anything and everything white. Or pink.

“Does that leave much?” I hear you ask. As it happens, yes indeed!

One of the fascinating aspects of this whole wine-shebang is the plethora of grape varieties that can in no way be described as mainstream. I love hunting down the obscure, the unknown, the interesting and the different. This might just be an English thing – championing the underdog and all that! If you ignore the grape varieties listed above it still leaves hundreds of relative unknowns to explore and savour.

In an attempt to broaden all our tasting experiences the theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday 7 is Obscure Red Grape Varieties. I hope this theme will engage your investigative skills in researching the variety and thereby broadening your wine knowledge in the process. You may even exercise the back muscles in stooping down to the bottom shelf in your vinos-rummaging escapades.

Off the list.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir are the ‘classic’ red grape varieties. From their homelands of France they have spread throughout the world and are pretty much ubiquitous in whichever country section of a wine shop you explore. Tempranillo and Sangiovese, while not having quite the world encompassing reach, are the mainstays of Spain and Italy. So out goes all the Rioja, quickly followed by all the Chianti.

Cabernet Franc is also off the list which wipes out the Loire and should stop anyone sneaking in a Claret. If you are in the UK and South Africa Pinotage is banned too. They are so easy to find I don’t class this variety as obscure! Lenn, instigator of this blog-happening, informs me that they are not that widespread in the US so anything from Pinotage is acceptable if you are based there. Don’t get me started on Gamay (the constituent of all Beaujolais and the remaining reds from the Loire) or Zinfandel/Primitivo. Both are banned. No arguing at the back there; who said this was a democracy! ;-)

Where to look?
So having rejected three-quarters of the wines in the average supermarket or wine merchant where should you look? You may not have to stoop to the bottom shelf as whole countries have yet to be ‘invaded’ by the international grapes. In many instances you may find that an unknown ‘local’ variety may appear in a blend with one of the international varieties. As long as the dominant grape in your wine is unusual/obscure that is fine. A warning though over synonyms. Don’t get caught out by a label proclaiming a variety using the local name – one of the most obvious is Syrah/Shiraz but Pinot Noir is known as Spätburgunder in Germany and Pinot Noir is Pinot Nero in Italy (a bit obvious that one). You may have to do a little research - just don’t get stressed over it though as this blog-happening is supposed to be a fun exercise!

OK Lets Get Started.
Greece and Portugal spring to mind as a good place to begin. The reputation of Greek wines belonging in the oxidized/maderized/crap category has long passed. In the UK companies such as Oddbins, Eclectic Wines and Ampelos Wines have championed a new wave of international-standard wines. Who can fail to be enticed by varieties such as Agioritikos, Xynomavro, Monemvassia or Liatiko. No idea what some of them actually taste like but the names are great! Over in Portugal you have loads of different vines. What is fun here is that owners of older vineyards may not have a clue on what they are growing (often several different varieties were planted in the same plot of earth) so they just make up a name.

Who can fail to smile as they sip a Bastado, a Periquita (little parrot), a Pédo Rato (mouse paw) or Rabo de Ovelha Tinto (Ewe’s Tail). Sadly Esgana Cão, dog strangler, is a white varietal. You may find a Jaen, a Trincaderia or a Baga as single varietal wines. The main online Portuguese specialist in the UK is Chase Wines.

France should not be ignored in your hunt. Away from the main regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux there are plenty of obscure regions with their own local grapes. There is Mourvèdre and Grenache of course available from the Rhone to the Spanish border (and across into Spain too but known as Monastrell and Garnacha). You also have Malbec and Tannat. Synonym alert - Malbec can be called Côt in certain areas but in the Côtes de Marmandais Cot is actually Merlot! Regional French specialists include Allez Vins, Pic Wines and Modern French Wines.

Talking of Malbec, smooch over to the Argentinean section. There are some superb single varietal Malbecs emanating from Argentina at the moment and they offer excellent value. (I have long championed the wines listed by Vinos Vinos the UK’s only Argentine specialist). Unless you include native American species of vine (vitis vinifera is the European species; there are several American ones) there is little from the New World that falls into our theme. Chile, South Africa, Australia and America are dominated by the international set. Some Rhone varieties in California can be had and there are experiments with Italian grapes in Australia; but little else. Unless you can surprise me of course!

Italy is another European country with a plethora of the unusual. I am expecting many entries will be Italian. Some of the more well known names are made from grapes other than the international bunch banned in the intro. Barolo and Barbaresco are made from Nebbiolo. Valpolicella and Amarone are blends of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara, but I hope you will be a little more adventurous and look for Marzemino, Canaiolo Nero and Aglianico del Vulture instead. Top UK internet retailers of Italian wines include Bat and Bottle, Valvona & Crolla and Italian Wines Direct

Is that enough inspiration or do I need to continue? More… OK

From across Eastern Europe, Austria and Switzerland there is Blaufränkish/Kékfrankos and Zweigelt. Then there is Bobal from Spain and Alicante Bouschet from France. The list is (almost) endless. Even Japan has its own native varieties.

Conclusion.
Far from limiting your selections this month I hope the topic – Obscure Red Grape Varieties – opens vinos horizons you will not have encountered before. A little fun research and experimentation are the order of the day. If you feel inspired to match your wine with food (again think local) all the better. I shall be awarding points for the most unusual variety and most inspired selection! And what do points equal? Interest!

Wine Blogging Wednesday 7 is the 9th March. Post your entries on or before this day, let me know when you have posted (either by track back or comment to this posting or via email) and I will compile an overview a day or so later. So says the Gospel of Wine Blogging Wednesday.

If you don’t have a website of your own but would like to participate please feel free to email in your tasting note to be included in the write up. I am also happy to answer any questions via email.

To start the ball rolling I have posted a tasting note on a wine from Portugal - not a great wine, nor is it expensive, but it is as least interesting.
http://www.spittoon.biz/archives/tn_quinta_vista_bin_1386_2003_estramadura_portugal.html

A recap on those NOT to buy – Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Gamay, Primitivo/Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Sangiovese. Pinotage too if you are in the UK or South Africa. Have fun while you rummage.

"Buckingham Palace snubbed top French wines in favour of a Central Otago Pinot Noir at a banquet in London on Friday to support the city's bid to host the Olympic Games in 2012. The palace used Mount Edward Central Otago Pinot Noir as one of the wines at the reception for International Olympic Committee members. "

They also served Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc and Orange (not Grange as printed) Muscat and Flora from Brown Brothers. Nice to see the Commonwealth being supported over Europe for a change.
http://www.stuff.co.nz/stuff/southlandtimes/0,2106,3194944a6570,00.html

"Scientists have cracked the ultimate mystery and discovered the true nature of the universe … in a champagne bottle. According to one leading astrophysicist the cosmos resembles an unimaginably vast bottle of bubbly." Good so far, then it gets on to string theory (beyond me) but then its back to the bubbles - hurrah!
http://212.2.162.45/news/story.asp?
j=134120938&p=y34yzy644&n=134121698

From the heart of Sheffield (Altincham) Food and Fine Wine - offering a great range of top notch Australian and Californian wines (amongst others) and a great range of deli food items too. The descriptions are really non-existent and I do like to see photos of the products I am buying but the site is easy to use, simple and effective. Delivery is worldwide.

There are some photos of the shop/bar which does look cool and trendy in a wood and blackboard style - a pity they didn't transfer a similar hipness to the website and instead went for this cool blue minimalist look; which is quite frankly dull and uninspiring.

"Twenty years ago land around Gimblett Rd, west of Hastings (New Zealand), was regarded as rubbish. Now it is what the French would call a grand cru - a defined area where great wine is made."
http://www.stuff.co.nz/stuff/0,2106,3193471a7775,00.html

So many entries to the latest and greatest (wine) blog-happening that everyones favourite Cook Sister has had to split the write-up into two. Some great wines selected across the world - informative write-up too.
http://cooksister.typepad.com/cook_sister/2005/02/wbw6_a_barrel_o.html
http://cooksister.typepad.com/cook_sister/2005/02/a_barrel_of_sou.html
And guess what - its Spittoons turn to host next - are we excited or what!? but no clues on the theme until the invite...

Ad-Vintage Wines have released a range of mixed cases - "an excellent offer on mixed cases from Australia, Canada, Italy, South Africa and South America. We purchased these in aid of a number of charities including The Wine And Spirits Trades’ Benevolent Society and Spinal Research. The good news is that we can offer each case to you at a very special price of £60 only – the wines in each case would normally cost £100."

Delivery is free in South West London and Surrey or £5 elsewhere.
http://www.advintage-wines.co.uk/html/mixed_cases.html

Champagne Taitinger have released a Champagne - Nocturne. It is designed to be enjoyed with food and "through the evening". Price is around £31.99. It comprises 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier with a higher dosage.
http://www.taittinger.com/gb/
cuvees/main/gbmainnocturne.htm

Trade newsheet OLN (Off-Licence News) has just published their annual Drinks Retailing Awards. High Street Chain of the Year went to Majestic (hardly much competition there) and Multiple Beer Retailer was awarded to Asda.

Multiple Wine Retailer went to Waitrose and Snacks Retailer, just to make sure everyone won something I guess, was the Thresher Group.

Of more interest OLN Independent Wine Merchant of the Year was awarded to Off the Vine (a company I dont know) leaving The Cellar Door and Stone, Vine and Sun as finalists.

"When a white vineyard owner rewarded his black workforce by giving them 11 hectares of their own, he thought he was doing them a favour. Meera Selva reports on a failed experiment in land reform"
http://news.independent.co.uk/world/africa
/story.jsp?story=611769

Now available on UKWinesOnline a review of the Ultimate Wines Burgundy Tasting. Includes tasting notes for the best wines available at the tasting.
http://www.ukwinesonline.co.uk/Wines/ourWines.asp?
KC=727&PL=2&ST=3&SS=ULTIMATE%20WINES%20BURGUNDY
%20TASTING%2012TH%20FEB%202005&SCI=15516&HC=1

It is Wine Blogging Wednesday - how excited are you!? This month it is hosted by an ex-pat South African under the auspices of Cook Sister. Her theme is South African Reds. My choice is a superb red - bloody lovely it was.

Flagstone Wines The Berrio, 2003, Western Cape, South Africa.
Limited Parcel at Oddbins £9.99.
Superb aroma – deep stewed black fruits with hints of spice, mint and chocolate, warm. Palate is very rich with smooth generous tannins and masses of complex flavours; a medley of red fruits, blackberries and cinnamon spice. Acidity appeared a little high at the moment but this should pass with some bottle age or when enjoyed with food. A blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. The Berrio, incidently, was one of the first ships to sail around the Cape with de Gama in 1497.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100

Rear Label – “This is a wild, tough part of the world. The belligerent ocean batters this rough-cut limestone coastline. The soil is as unyielding as the clouds and the icy wind will blow you flat on your back if it wants to. It’s a magical, mysterious place and you know in your bones it’s where you have to be. The hand-crafted wine you are drinking is our attempt to translate the spiritual essence of this place.”

Rather than repeat the content from the company website, by empowering the wonder that is the internet howsabout a link direct to the relevant page -
http://www.flagstonewines.com/wine_theberriocab.html.
I think this is a small parcel sent to the Oddbins shops only; it is not available online.

Food Match – it needs food really, the acidity stands out a tad at the moment. For a themed match I was looking at doing something ‘South African’ although my knowledge of their cuisine stops at knowing they have a Malay influence and Dutch as well I suspect. Waitrose had three different South African imported sauces on the bottom shelf from a company called Walnut Ridge something called Karoo Farmstyle Apricot, a Malay Curry and a third that I have now forgotten. (Anyone tried these? Are they any good?) Not too sure that a ready-made cooking sauce is really in the spirit of my bon-vivant lifestyle though! ;-)

A rather delicious Italian salami caught my eye at the Waitrose deli counter; which ended up in a pasta sauce. Not very South African I admit; penne pasta, porcini mushrooms, tin of tomatoes, a healthy sprinkling of SoGo Italian Herbs (which is made in South Africa so there is a connection), a little chopped onion, a splash of wine, garlic and the sausage that had been gently browned. Lovely and rather a good match to the wine.

Wine Tasting Note: Rustenberg Brampton OVR, 2002, Western Cape, South Africa.
Waitrose and Independents £6.99.
Could they squeeze and more grapes into this? A heady blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Merlot (20%), Shiraz (18%), Carignan (4%), Mourvèdre (2%), Malbec (2%) - so informs the back label. Ripe blackberries on the nose – laced with cassis and pepper. Lovely rich, ripe palate, subdued tannic structure, acidity on the finish, flavours of spice and chocolate add to the complex flavours - raspberry, silky strawberry ending in a long lasting aftertaste. Delicious.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100

Now this is so good it could have been my contribution to tomorrows Wine Blogging Wednesday; it isn’t as I have something even more exciting to share!

A new company still experimenting (I would guess) with the website; the full credit card facilities are not yet available, the design is a bit messy and not all products have full details. Still lets not knock there efforts as the wine range, while a little small, does hold some interesting wines. There are easily enough to put together an interesting mixed case.

From the picture here the website does not look too bad. However, forced like many who use off-the-peg shopping cart packages, the site is in two distinct sections. The front end at Vendimia is fine, if a little basic. The style does not carry on through to the actual shop. Where for example is the company logo? All the colours and design change as well.

Still, not everyone can be a wine merchant and a web designer at the same time. Without that professional edge, and I am talking generally here not specifically about Vendimia, how does any merchant compete against the multitude of other similar websites, all trying to flog wine?

There is such a regular flow of health and wine related reports and articles I wonder if it is worth even mentioning them. This one is posted on the BBC website; so it must be true!

"Drinking wine, but not beer or spirits, keeps women's hearts beating healthily, Swedish research suggests."

The ongoing saga of the re-classification of the Bourgeois chateux of Bordeaux has taken another turn. The lastest groupings have been ruled inconsequential, effectively, with the French Ministry of Agriculture ruling that 77 properties, that failed in their attempt to receive Cru Bourgeois status, can reapply. The Ministry ruling follows a court hearing in Bordeaux that found fault with the process of classification.

The round-up of this months Sugar High Friday have just been posted on the a la cuisine weblog with a rousing 28 entries this time around (and my first as a participant). Ready Made Puff Pastry manufacturers around the globe must be very, very happy!
http://www.alacuisine.org/alacuisine/2005/02/shf_5_roundup.html

As part of the comic relief fundraising Webber's Wines/The Wine Maestro has a special wine tasting together with a wine quiz, a blind tasting and a light supper. Cost just £25. Wednesday 23rd February 8pm until 11pm.
http://www.thewinemaestro.co.uk

"The makers of Buckfast tonic wine are to take legal action against Cathy Jamieson, the justice minister, after she urged shopkeepers not to stock the product because it was fuelling antisocial behaviour."
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2090-1481995,00.html

I have just returned from a very enjoyable couple of hours in the company of Paula (and 8 other willing guests) at an Ultimate Wines Burgundy tasting. Details of the wines tasted will appear shortly but thought I would give notice of the forthcoming schedule of tastings - places are limited so early booking is advisable.
19th March Unusual Italian Varietals - Wonderful Discoveries (£20)
16th April Austrian Wines - Exciting Food Wines (£20) (UPDATE - also 14th April at WSET School EC4 £30)
21st May Greek Wines - Ancient Vines Get a New Start (£20) (UPDATE - also 18th May at WSET School EC4 £30)
18th June Not Just for Puds - Exploring Dessert Wines (Also WSET School EC4 £40)
All great value seeing the array of wines available to taste and the quality of the food available via a small buffet. So if you are anywhere within travel distance of Marlow, Buckinghamshire (and now Queen Street, London, EC4) I can heartly recommend attending.

La Pampa Estate Sauvignon Blanc, 2003, Mendoza, Argentina.
£4.99 Waitrose.
Green and grapefruity on the nose this 100% Sauvignon certainly announces its presence in the glass. Rounded and tropical initially then the green acidity kicks in with a lime fresh finish. A sherbet touch too.
Scribblings Rating - 86/100

Sauvignon Blanc can rarely be described as hugely complex – being punchy, clean and crisp character is its style. I prefer an SB to be clean and crisp, unsullied by oak influence generally