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Wine Tasting Note: Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand. (1)
Bryan L wrote: I love this wine... at 5.99 a bottle one is most imp... [read more]

Threshers Buys 200 Unwins Stores. (1)
Paul wrote: Will the managers be taken on, then?... [read more]

Le Rosy Causing A Storm. (1)
jens wrote: That "label" will NEVER get approved by the Ohio Liquor... [read more]

Brothers Pear Cider. (1)
Rob Skullfarquar wrote: The Packaging that you did the tasting for is not the f... [read more]

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« November 2005 | Main | January 2006 »

Good News for Ex-Unwins Staff.

Good news for some anyway. As local newspapers around the south east report which of their local Unwins stores are to be brought by Threshers I note with sadness that the shop I first began my wine career - as a part-time shelf filler - is closing. Initially operated by Fullers, before they sold out to Unwins, the tiny shop in Flackwell Heath is not being saved.

Bucks Free Press
"The buy-out, concluded on Thursday, last week, could see workers at stores in Chesham, Gerrards Cross, Holmer Green, Penn and Hazlemere keep their jobs. It is estimated that all jobs from those stores will be saved. A shop typically has five or six members of staff. However, staff at the High Wycombe Unwins branch in New Road, Cressex, and the Flackwell Heath branch in Swains Market, have been left looking for new jobs after Threshers said they would not be reopening those stores. "

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Wine Tasting Note: Griffin Creek Pinot Gris, 2002, Rogue Valley, Oregon.


Griffin Creek
A delightful gift. A wine, unavailable in the UK, lovingly cradled in hand-luggage from the West Coast to our little island. Perhaps the excitement rose the expectations too unattainable levels but the disappointment was hard to conceal. Alternatively it could have been the food; distinctly flavourless scallops, seared, served on a puff pastry base with a cider vinegar and fish-stock sauce where the cream component was remembered only on opening the fridge to retrieve the coffee.

Wine Tasting Note: Griffin Creek Pinot Gris, 2002, Rogue Valley, Oregon.
Listed on several American retailers for US$18.
Developed on the nose - lanolin and pears, not as lively and fresh as it may have been a year or so ago. The palate is medium to full bodied, nicely textured with pear flavours dominating; could almost be a Chardonnay. Nutty and melon hints. A hint of vegetalness coming through, again, perhaps due to age. Very dry finish. A hint of residual sugar may have benefited.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

Including the cream in the dish may have worked wonders as, finishing off the bottle the following day, a rich and creamy cauliflower cheese, worked beautifully with the wine. The cream or benefiting from being opened...?

Although a direct conversion of the price is not a great indicator of the equivalent in sterling, taxes and shipment costs need to be considered, $18 converts to a little over £10.

Wine Tasting Note: Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand.

Served on Boxing Day with a starter of Goats Cheese salad made festive with the addition of cranberries and a dressing of clementine juice, cassis and advocado oil. A superb partnership.

Wine Tasting Note: Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand.
From Oddbins for £8.
A superb punchy, green, peppery Sauvignon. I have long loved the Dashwood range from those days long ago when I worked for the Fuller's offie chain. They listed this wine and it just flew off the shelves. Packed with 'green' citrus flavours and a tingly, stony palate. All you could want in a Kiwi Sauvignon. Now resplendent under a funky new label. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100.

Fox Gordon Eight Uncles Shiraz, 2003, Barossa Valley, Australia.


Fox Gordon Eight Uncles Shiraz
While the main course was rendered inedible by my over-enthusiastic reheating the wine flowed copiously and helped wash the burnt flavours from the mouth. This deep and plush red was a star. You can read all on the culinary disaster at Slashfood.

Wine Tasting Note: Fox Gordon Eight Uncles Shiraz, 2003, Barossa Valley, Australia.
Purchased at Oddbins for £12.49.
A lovely drop, rich full and gently spicy. The grapes are sourced from three individual vineyards combining into a mulberry, plums and spice wonder. Full-bodied and balanced. The second vintage release of this label with 900 cases made. Alcohol 14.5%. The previous vintage, 2002, was my entry for Wine Blogging Wednesday back in November 2004.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100

Threshers Buys 200 Unwins Stores.

Luckily, for many ex-Unwins staff, Threshers (the UK's largest national chain of off-licences) has just purchased 200 Unwins branches. They already operate 2,000 branches under the Wine Rack and Threshers brands. Meanwhile the Times reports that the previous owners the extended Wetz and Rotter families have lost at least £10 million under a complex deal that would have seen them receive 90 per cent of the group's value. All 83 ex-share holders are still going to be sued due to accounting irregularities.

BBC.co.uk
"Administrators at Unwins said the deal was concluded overnight, and that it was Threshers' intention to reopen the stores as soon as possible. Joint administrator Myles Halley from KPMG said Threshers hoped to make approximately 1,200 jobs available. "



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Wine Tasting Note: Croft Quinta da Roeda, 1987, Douro, Portugal.


Croft Quinta Da Roeda 1987
Quinta da Roeda has the quaint tradition of planting a tree every year they produce a port from the vineyard. For 1987 a eucalyptus was selected; the leaves appear on the wines label abet faintly. This is a single vineyard wine (Quinta); not a full port vintage (which uses the very best grapes from across a range of properties) even though made from grapes from a single year. It will mature quicker than the top flight vintages. In my opinion they offer superb value for money.

Wine Tasting Note: Croft Quinta da Roeda, 1987, Douro, Portugal.
Available from Majestic £13.99 Cambridge Wine £18.99.
A mature nose, chocolately, coffee, medicinal hints. The palate is very appealing - a surge of delicious berry fruit, sweetness upfront, that dissipates into a quite mature mid-palate with hints of mint, chocolate and prunes. Big, full-bodied. But the richness quickly subsides into a dried, prune aftertaste. Croft themselves suggest that this specific vintage will be "perfection within ten to fifteen years" which means it's about as good as it will ever be.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100

Unwins Update.

As staff pack their bags the Telegraph states that DM Private Equity, who purchased the chain in March, claim a discrepancy in the accounts that amounts to a variance of £13.2million. What I don't understand is why the same company is now able to bid for Unwins' assets? They, along with Castel (owners of Oddbins) in conjunction with Wine Cellar and Whittals Wines, have come forward with 'rescue' packages. (The Unwins website is still viewable...)

Telegraph.co.uk
"DM Private Equity, which bought Unwins last year for £32m, said in a statement it was planning "to seek full restitution and damages resulting from its acquisition of the Unwins Wine Group Limited and its subsidiaries". Included in the list of possible targets for its legal action is the company's auditors Grant Thornton. "

UPDATE: Financial details from BCM and staff housing problems from the BBC.
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Unwins Closes.

The BBC reports on Unwins - the staff are now redundant and all 350 stores have closed.

BBC.co.uk
"Some 1,400 workers for beleaguered off-licence chain Unwins have been made redundant and all 350 of its stores closed, administrators have said. Accountants KPMG were called in as administrators at 1700 GMT on Monday by Unwins' main creditor, HBOS. Unwins bosses had tried to sell several stores recently but were unsuccessful. Now the firm which bought Unwins earlier this year is starting legal action against the former owners because of "gross accounting" errors. Owner DM Private Equity is claiming it was told the chain was worth more than it really was."




Two Ports - Fonseca and Delaforce 20 year old's.

This was a tricky comparison. On initial opening there were few distinguishing differences; both had slightly differing hues and subtle differences in the aroma but trying to tell them apart was difficult. So I went down the pub. Leaving them to breath certainly assisted in spotting variations later. Or maybe it was the Brakspears!


Delaforce Curious and Ancient
Wine Tasting Note: Delaforce Curious and Ancient 20 Year Old Tawny, NV, Douro, Portugal.
Around £32 from independents (such as WineRaks)
Brownish colour and hints of toffee on the nose. The palate is rich and rounded full of redcurrant fruit backed up by toffee and a delicacy. Comparing it to the Fonseca I did think that the palate was a touch too full and lacks a modicum of delicacy. Still lovely though.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100


Fonseca 20 Year Old
Wine Tasting Note: Fonseca Aged Tawny Port 20 Year Old, NV, Douro, Portugal.
Available for around £30 (Fortnum and Mason list this at £34).
This was superb - in fact still is as I am sipping this while typing. Comparing it to the Delaforce this has a darker hue and is red in tone. More pronounced nose too. Sweeter fruit leading into a broader more complex palate. Plummy with stewed fruits, hints of coffee and currants. Good long length. Bottled in 2005.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100

Details of the style - aged tawny - can be found on a post concerning Taylor's 20 year old.

Elephants Don't Get Drunk.

From OLN - "Elephants don't get drunk, a recent study has revealed. The myth of herds of pissed-up pachyderms roaming around the South African bush has been exploded. The findings, due to be published in a scientific journal, say the beasts do like the taste of alcohol in marula fruit of Amarula liqueur fame). However, an elephant would need to eat fermenting marulas at 400 times their maximum daily intake in order to get trunk and disorderly."

Wine Blogging Wednesday 17 - Announced.

Several bottles look tempting. The Stonecroft or the Murdoch James Syrah's perhaps, both at £15.99. The Esk Valley Terraces is a touch out of my league though at a hefty £57.79. Wine Blogging Wednesday reaches round 17 with Cork Dork selecting Red Kiwis as the theme. A small but interesting selection that I have been eyeing up for sometime. That is what is so excellent about WBW, it forces the purchase of wines you otherwise would have dismissed as too expensive or perhaps not to your taste. Wines form New Zealand, the reds especially, are never cheap. To force my sorry arse through the dull days of January, a little extravagance is mandatory... if only to forget that the drudgery of February awaits.

Unwins Latest News.

For those following the collapse of the Unwins chain of off-licences the Telegraph reports that 25 interested parties have expressed an interest in the group. Some have submitted offers. My guess is that the extate will be broken up and not sold as a going concern. My local branch is closed others are reported to have been replaced by charity shops. br>
BusinessTelegraph.com
"Unwins spent all of yesterday in talks with its lawyers, DLA Piper, and Kroll, the corporate restructuring specialist, assessing the offers to see if there were any refinancing routes available. "The offers were for either all or parts of the business, and they were serious," said a source close to the talks."

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Le Rosy Causing A Storm.


Le Rosy
As reported in the “Depeche du Midi”, a French daily newspaper in southern France: “This bottle has scandalised feminists, not for its contents – a new rosé – but for its container – a bottle dressed in a bikini! – Le Rosy is produced by the Co-operative at Baixas north of Perpignan (Languedoc-Roussilon). Defenders claim it pays homage to the female body – but despite everything “Le Rosy” is selling well.”

Looks pretty pants to me. Thanks to John for the info.

Brothers Pear Cider.


Brothers Pear Cider
Not a great fan of cider. Some of the single varietal versions at least have a modicum of interesting and flavour but most seem drenched in artificial flavours and high alcohol. Perry must have negative connotations for them to resort to a Pear Cider branding; still it is made the same...

Until recently this was exclusively available during the Glastonbury Festival but after 10 years they decided to extend production throughout the year. Available from the Brother Cider website for £19.95 for a case of 12 half litre bottles. The flavour? Crisp, refreshing, apple and pear like. Alcohol is 7% - so still high - but the finish is clean and long. The statement on the label - Best Served Chilled in a field in Somerset - probably rings true; just not in mid-December I guess.



Brothers Pear Cider

Raise Your Glasses: Brandy May Be Good For You

Here we go again, only it's the turn of brandy now rather red wine, or champagne, or whisky, beer, bread pudding...

HomeToenChannel.com
"Researchers from Monash University in Australia found that, in moderation, brandy has health benefits –- and the better quality the brandy, the greater the benefit. The key to its benefit is antioxidants contained in the brandy that come mainly from copper during the distilling process."



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News Feed - deletion.

There are only a handful of subscribers to the 'news only' feed here at Spittoon. I am going to halt this feed so I can use the facilities at Feedburner more efficiently. Could I suggest you subscribe to the full postings or tasting notes only feed as a replacement.

Unwins Close to Collapse.

I knew it wouldn't last - Unwins is close to collapse according to the Times. I just hope all those who were slated for redundancy receive their payment...

TimesOnline
"Unwins, one of Britain’s biggest off-licence chains, appeared to be on the brink of collapse last night after its directors put the company on the path to administration. An intention to appoint Kroll as administrator was filed in the High Court on Monday. This gives Unwins until next Tuesday to find a buyer or refinance. "

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Wine Tasting Note: Taylor's 20 Year Old Tawny Port, Portugal.

'Tis the season for port - trah la la. Who drinks port in the summer for goodness sake? Well me actually; a rather nice chilled white port that might also make a decent aperitif in these colder months.

Tawny Port - available at plenty of differing price points and in various styles too (oh the confusion) . You can have non-aged tawnys and those with an age indication and those that don't mention tawny at all! There are actually two differing styles of tawny. In theory tawny indicates that the wine has been aged in wood for a longer period than a ruby, aged, in fact, until the colour turns to an amber-orange hue. But much of what passes as tawny (we are talking the cheaper end of the spectrum) is no older than a ruby and is offered often at the same price.

So what's the difference? a ruby is made from a blend of big, richly coloured wines while a tawny is usually made from lighter styled wines. They are paler coloured and can have their colour adjusted by adding a little white port too. These are the money making bulk wines of many producers.

But a true tawny, such as this one, is in a different league. A step up in age from a 10 year old the 20 is where tawny port combines the delicacy and complexity of an aged wine with the fruit and freshness of a younger wine. They don't come cheap mind due to the stocks required of maturing wine that are required to deliver a consistent house style. Labels of aged tawnys should carry a bottling date (this one is 2004). They do not improve in bottle; are ready to drink on release and can deteriorate if left hanging around.

Wine Tasting Note Taylor's 20 Year Old Tawny Port, Portugal.
Available from Sainsbury's, Majestic, Selfridges and Threshers for £29.99.
On opening a mass of sun-dried raisins and a touch of meatiness. In the glass quite spirity but a beautiful colour though, crystal clear, pale rose coloured tawny (obviously). "Check out the legs on that" piped up Rob. I assume he was referring to the glass. Mellow and rich with broad complexity hints of chocolate, prunes and blackberries. Stewed plums. Touch of almonds. Plum crumble. Quite a spirity finish though and I was expecting the acidity to be softer. Lovely though and a glorious companion to a decent mince-pie. As I said 'tis the season...
Scribblings Rating - 92/100

Although this style of wine will keep a few days before the delicacy of fruit diminishes, I resisted the temptation to finish the bottle (not all on my own I hasten to add) as I have several other tawnys to sample and I would like to compare... more to come...

Wine Tasting Note: Enclave des Papes Rouge, 2004, Coteaux de Tricastin, Rhone, France.

Something deep, rich and warming required tonight; an accompaniment to lightly spiced tortilla things that Rob plans to rustle up later tonight. Loose change extracted from various pockets produced the grand sum of £5.90 - hence the purchase of this Southern Rhone red.

Wine Tasting Note: Enclave des Papes Rouge, 2004, Coteaux de Tricastin, Rhône, France.
Plucked from a shelf at Oddbins for £5.79.
An unoaked blend of Grenache (65%), Syrah (30%) and Carignan (5%); the nose is chocolatey and curranty, the palate ripe and bursting with raspberry and spice flavours. Peppery. It may be sometime before the tortillas... a slither of unpasteurised cheese (Beaufout 'springy, buttery and golden with caramel undertones and a full, lasting flavour') mellowed out those rustic tannins and emphasised the raspberry flavours very nicely. Alcohol at 14%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

Menu For Hope.

With a great surge of posts it looks like Pim's Menu For Hope has garnered huge support from across the wine and food blogosphere. Via Slashfood I have donated Cook Until Desired Tenderness - a nice little book. Sarah, also a Slashfoodie, is offering a selection of Oregan goodies. I see Beau has a wine tasting session and Anne in Sweden has offered a top cookbook. Full details on slashfood.

Unwins Shop Closures and Sell-Offs.

Unwins, as the Independent reports, has closed a batch of branches and has began selling off 40 more of its stores.

Independent.co.uk
"Staff morale has reached a low point because the company has been running down stocks of wine and beer in some stores for several months. A number of stores have closed "temporarily" due to staff shortages. At a store in Kingston upon Thames, which closed recently, customers would walk in and find only eight bottles of wine on the shelves, plus cigarettes and some soft drinks."

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Wine Blogging Wednesday 16 - Judge A Bottle By Its Cover.

What should I select? One of those 'funky' labels with bright colours and cartoonish graphics or something more sedate, classy and refined. The gold on yesterday's bottle label didn't translate to anything decent liquid-wise so taking a different angle a more understated label, something simple but refined, caught the eye. For this months Wine Blogging Wednesday Derrick has selected wine labels as the theme under the title Judge A Book By Its Cover.

Wine Tasting Note: Matahiwi Pinot Noir, 2004, Wairarapa, New Zealand.
From Oddbins for £8.99
Light in colour, nose full of black cherry yoghurt aromas with just a suspicion of earthy richness - young. With more swirling more primary fruit and less of that earthiness. Not hugely complex but attractive. Rich, young, up-front fruit, a delicious richness. Plenty of acidity. A touch of smoke on the finish. Alcohol 13.5%. This would be delicious with a lamb dish; the acidity cutting through the fat. A cream dish would also work - the cream and Parmesan smothered baked onions and a few little sausages went superbly.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

As detailed on the producers website this is the first vintage from this specific vineyard. The Matahiwi Estate spans 74-hectares in the Opaki region of Waiarapa where it is one of the largest family owned wineries.

There is a flickr group for this round of Wine Blogging Wednesday.

Wine Magazine To Close.

Decanter reports on that their rival consumer title Wine International is to cease in its present format. They report that it will become a trade magazine by merging with Wine and Spirit International. The fate of the International Wine Challenge is undecided although they report it may become part of a 'Challenge' package with the International Beer and International Spirit Challenges.

Decanter.com
"Whether it would be more biased towards trade or consumers remains opaque. The company said, 'We're not thinking of it as either a trade magazine or a consumer magazine - it will inform, entertain and stimulate readers with any level of interest in wine, spirits and beers.'

French Lay Claim to Kiwi.

Kiwi - a New Zealander right? So why has a French company got its arse in a twist over a wine from New Zealand labelled Kiwi White? Because they have registered the name Kiwi Cuvee...

New Zealand Herald
"The Lacheteau wine company registered the name "Kiwi Cuvee" and is prepared to sue anyone, including New Zealanders, for selling wines with the same name anywhere in the European Union. Greg Day, founder of Kahurangi Estate, said he would no longer sell his wines in Sweden even though his first shipment of 1100 cases of chardonnay sold in two months."

Wine Tasting Note: Haras Sauvignon Blanc, 2001, Maipo Valley, Chile.

What on earth was I thinking of. A £3.99 Chilean Sauvignon Blanc with a horrid gold label just isn't going to be good is it? But I brought it anyway, seduced by the striking label in anticipation of tomorrow's Wine Blogging Wednesday. Wish I hadn't really. I have brought a different bottle for tomorrows event. The label though is quite striking in its black and gold glory - striking or tacky? That's the problem with gold on a label it can look classy or veer the other way and look cheap.

Wine Tasting Note: Haras Character Sauvignon Blanc, 2001, Maipo Valley, Chile.
Brought at Oddbins for £3.99.
Sharp and watery flavour, citrus and a touch of herbs. Reasonable length. Crisp acidity. Funny sherbety-wood flavour on the finish. As you can tell I didn't like it much. I see it has disappeared from the Oddbins website. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 78/100

Food Blog Awards 2005.

The 2005 Food Blog Awards are all set for nominations. It is the second year this event is running and again it is being hosted by Kate at the Accidental Hedonist.

From now until the 16th December nominations are being accepted in several categories. After the 16th a group of yet to be announced judges with review the nominations and submit five sites in each category. Through to the end of December all can then vote on their fave site. The categories are -



Unwins Woes Continue.

The problems at Unwins - a 400 strong chain in the South East of England - continue. Not only are the stores totally empty of stock (I would show you pictures but who wants to see empty shelves?) and mass redundancies looming but suppliers who still haven't been paid (such as Dromana) are halting further stocks reaching the stores. The Times yesterday reported that the owners, DM Equity, have been forced to seek an emergency cash injection to keep the company afloat over Christmas. How on earth can this company keep going with no stock? And why is it taking so long to sort itself out? No stock = no sales = no money = closure...

Why am I so het-up on one failing company? It is a major player in the South East with 400 odd stores but on a more personal level I use to work for them several years ago and I still have a soft-spot for the company... aah, bless.

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Wine Tasting Note: Rhone Valley Vineyards VF Lasira, 2004, Costieres de Nimes, France.

Border territory - Costieres de Nimes, a land abutting the Rhone Valley proper, the Languedoc expanses and the wild Camargue. Like those labelled Cotes du Rhone wines of the Nimes region are often quoted as a 'safe bet', drinkable, fruity, great with most red-blooded food and usually good value.

Wine Tasting Note Rhone Valley Vineyards VF Lasira, 2004, Costieres de Nimes, France.
Picked up from Threshers for £5.99.
A screwcapped bottle - 75% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 0% Cork as the rear label puts it. Medium to full bodied, fruity and drinkable. A lick of tannin, a spot of spicy, licorice fruit and balancing acidity. Fine. Smooth with a little cheddar. Would be better a quid less (excellent if you take advantage of the three for two offer; working out out at £3.99 a bottle) but not bad for a mid-weeker. Alcohol 13%.
Scribblings Rating - 84/100 or 88/100 at �3.99

Top 100 Festive Wines (2).

MacQuitty moves on to the bottles under £8 for her Top 100 Festive Wines in the Times. Again just two star wines; ared and a fortified -

New Wine Note Categories.

I have been spending most of the day reorganising the categories here on spittoon. I realised that, with introducing a category/topic menu, that the wine tasting notes formed a huge page; hardly conducive to ease of navigating or reading.

Thus I have created several subcategories - top reds, top whites and ros�s, wine with food and the like. This morphed into a bigger exercise than I anticipated - a half-hour-job actually requiring a review of every post to reassign categories and set sub-categories. So not completed yet...

Wine Tasting Note: Espiral Old Vine Macabeo Chardonnay, Somontano, Spain.

Little appetite last night, despite baking a delicious loaf of nut-infused bread. Sliced a few pieces and served with cheese - oozing brie and a harder, cheddar-like Lincoln Poacher; it was all I fancied. To accompany just a glass or two of this Spanish white.

Wine Tasting Note: Espiral Old Vine Macabeo Chardonnay, 2004, Somontano, Spain.
Threshers £5.99.
Quite soft initially with a lightly nutty, pear and lychee flavour. Medium bodied. There is a gently tapering finish, after the acidity kicks in with a lemony burst. Clean and fresh. It worked wonderfully with the cheese - the brie brought out a nice orange edge to the flavour. In contrast the Lincoln Poacher soften the acidity and accentuated the length, the wine emphasising the flavours of the cheese rather than the other way round. A nice wine worth sampling. Alcohol 13%. The winemaker is an MW - Norrel Robertson.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100