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Wine Tasting Note: Dashwood Pinot Noir, 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand. (4)
Stephen Dashwood wrote: Hi I'm of to oddbins to try some of this wine will let ... [read more]

Low Carb Wines to launch in the UK. (1)
helen newdick wrote: I was interested to see your notice of low carb wines c... [read more]

Wine Tasting Note: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza, 2002, La Mancha, Spain (1)
dr wrote: 14% alcohol.... [read more]

Wine Tasting Note: Porter Mill Station Chardonnay, 2004, South Africa. (1)
Toby Peirce wrote: You're right about the Chenin - at £5.49 it's great val... [read more]

Wine Dinner - the wines of Howard Park, Australia Matching Food and Wine - wine with a lamb stew
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« December 2005 | Main | February 2006 »

Catching Up.

No sooner do I begin to write-up the notes from last weeks New Zealand tasting then along pops the Australia Day session! Managed to try many more wines today - a couple of real crackers from Tasmania (with a nod to Pinot Island) and several stunning 'icon' wines. So plenty to scribble.

Also managed a diversion to Philglass and Swiggot behind Marble Arch - not the cheapest of shops (just a single handful under a tenner is all I spotted) but had two wines picked out tomorrows WBW entry. I do realise that the theme is supposed to be your favourite wine shop and I have never been to these people before but... actually I don't have an excuse.

Wine Tasting Note: Porter Mill Station Chardonnay, 2004, South Africa.



Wine Tasting Note: Porter Mill Station Chardonnay, 2004, Swartland, South Africa.
Flying Corkscrew £6.99.
Disappointing. It is all very well being fresh, crisp, light and perfectly drinkable - but were is the excitement? Where is the edge to the 'perfectly pleasant' apple flavours that sets your tongue singing or the complexity of aroma that makes your nasal passages quiver in anticipation? What is more disappointing is that I wanted the Chenin Blanc for which I have heard excellent comments. Still this is unwooded with 12.5% alcohol and would be fine with fish and maybe the acidity would also cut through some richer creamy sauces.
Scribblings Rating - 84/100

Fire and Wine Don't Mix.

South Africa, Australia and California are notoriously prone to wildfires. Fire is a feature of the environment and often essential to maintain the natural ecosystem. But fire and wine don't mix...

Wine.co.za
"The Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) says the smoke taint issue was the single largest problem they dealt with in 2003-4, both in terms of product value and numbers of growers affected. Smoke-affected wines and juices showed characters described by AWRI's sensory panel as 'smoky', 'burnt', 'ash', 'ashtray', 'salami' and 'smoked salmon'. Viticulture consultant Jim Campbell-Clause is more blunt. He describes smoke-affected wine as having 'an unpalatable septic tank pong.'

Wine Tasting Note: Trevor Mast Four Sisters Shiraz, 2002, Australia.

Four Sisters ShirazFour Sisters is the creation of Trevor Mast, owner and winemaker at Mount Langi Ghiran, world famous for its Langi. One year his four daughters created the wine label design as a birthday surprise. Produced with the help of the eldest daughter Daliah, a graphic designer, the label depicts each one of the sisters – from the left they are Sophie, Anja, Daliah and Ineke.

Wine Tasting Note: Trevor Mast Four Sisters Shiraz, 2002, South Eastern Australia.
From Flying Corkscrew £8.99 Australian Wines Online £7.99
A lovely little drop - nice spicy plum aroma and a palate that surprises on the finish with a level of complexity and . Medium to full-bodied, lightly spicy and well balanced with plenty of ripe, berry fruits. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

English Wine 'gets serious'.

Bookers Vineyard, established in 1973 and one of the oldest in modern England, this week opened its new winery. The firm has spent a £62,000 Processing and Marketing grant on state-of-the-art facilities such as fermentation tanks, stainless steel wine vats and bottling equipment, to improve the quality of its wine. The money came from both the EU and the UK government.

Beverage Daily
"Margaret Beckett, secretary of state for the environment and who came down to lead the winery's opening ceremony, said she believed in the “solid economic future” of English wine. “English wines are now taking more accolades at international competitions than ever before, and this is against competition from some of the best producers in the world,” she said.

Wine Tasting Note: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza, 2002, La Mancha, Spain

La Mancha, the sprawling plateau south of Madrid, is not re-known for high quality; it's main claim being the largest wine-growing region both in Spain and the world. This producer though is highlighted in the 'bible' for Spanish wines (the Peñín Guide) as being "undeniably the best" from the region. The packaging doesn't do this particular bottle any favours though, giving a rather cheap and tacky feel.

Wine Tasting Note: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza, 2002, La Mancha, Spain.
Available from Oddbins for £13.29.
I'm thinking dusty plains, hot simmering horizons and insects buzzing through the gentle slopes of low-lying vineyards as the ancient windmills creak in a gentle breeze... A scent of wild berries, strawberries and more than a dusting of spice open this deep cherry coloured wine. The palate follows with a rich and mellow feel, dusty tannins hide in a rich and jam flavoured wine with mellowed complexity and a long toasty finish. Delicious. 100% Tempranillo. Alcohol 13%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100

This was served with a steak and chorizo stew (Part One / Part Two) as detailed on Slashfood. Although the spice of the chorizo dampened the wines flavours a tad it was an lovely combination. Equally manchego and other cheeses, as detailed on the producers website, would be a fine match.

UK Merchant News.

Have fallen behind with the merchant emails... three jumped out from the mass...
  • Ultimate Wines is hosting two Portuguese tastings (Marlow 25th Feb. £25, London 23rd Feb. £35). Paula always presents some superb and interesting wines. Well worth attending.
  • Planet of The Grapes has secured just 12 bottles of a new Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc. The Grey Ghost has a little more weight than the excellent, punchy, 'normal' bottle and has undergone a modicum of oak aging. To get your hands on a free bottle you have to buy a case of the 'normal' bottle.
  • Nick Dobson Wines - specialists in Austria, Germany and Beaujolais is holding a January Sale - some very tempting bottles here.


Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de Lavabre Rouge, 2001, Pic Saint-Loup, France.

The side road eluded us; travelling east across the Languedoc aiming for the Pic Saint-Loup hill. Basically we missed it and ended up in the Southern Rhone. It was a year or two back now and I do regret the missed opportunity. We were under pressure to travel up the Rhone Valley and conquer other more renown hills though.

Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de Lavabre Rouge, 2001, Pic Saint-Loup, Languedoc, France.
Flying Corkscrew £9.99.
Just the right balance of fruit and elder complexity. A marvellous richness of deep fruits with an edge of meaty, spicy, raspberry and red currant juiciness. Smooth with a level of tannin that is about spot-on. Age has provided a little sediment. An unoaked mix of Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. Alcohol 13.5%.

This is the lower ranking wine in the domaines range. Next up is Les Demoiselles, which sees some oak ageing while the flagship is Château Lavabre which sees time in a mix of new and used oak.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100

UPDATE: The Chateau Lavabre, the flagship wine of this estate, is available from Surf4Wine for, at the time of writing, £11.50.

Resveratrol Combats Flu.

Health claims for red wine are a regular occurance; but research in Italy indicates that resveratrol, one component in red wine grape skins stopped a flue virus from mutating. Resveratrol is also found in peanuts and mulberries

United Press International
" Red wine has been found to be good for combating cardiovascular conditions and diseases like Alzheimer's disease. "This discovery is a very important because it increases the possibility of combating the virus and has proved effective against all different types of flu," researchers said. The findings have been published by the Journal of Infectious Diseases. "

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New Zealand Wine Tasting.

Just been reading through last Tuesday's scribbled notes; some stunningly good Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminers kick off the list. I concentrated on whites for the simple reason that I ran out of time before I got to try the reds. Had a welcome diversion from the 'best of' tables with an introduction to Mike Just a winemaker who took the 25th Anniversary New Zealand Wine Tasting as an opportunity to launch his own range (Clayridge Vineyards) to the UK. He is also winemaker for Maven Wines and Auntsfield Estate which I also had the pleasure of slurping, spitting and scribbling my way through.

It was the Maven range that really stood out - the packaging is superb, each wine in the range labeled with vibrant photographs of local huts, barns or bridges in an over-saturated, blurred style. Sadly the website is down otherwise I would direct you to look before I write-up the notes; I will have to scan the images in. The stuff inside the bottles wasn't bad either!

Mike's passion for his job and his wines was very evident. He has a great story to tell, not only does he sport an eye-patch, loves donning a full suit of armour and waving around a sword but he has plans to build a medieval house on the edge of his estate. He also claims to be descended from Edward III one of the Plantagenet's.

The next Wine Blogging Wednesday announced.


An unusual challenge for Wine Blogging Wednesday 18 that in a nutshell boils down to a recommendation from your favourite wine shops staff. This is going to be tricky as the shops that get me most enthused and excited are are online or miles away (I no longer own a car). So that leaves Oddbins, Threshers (ummm... dont think so) and a very small local deli.

Dr.Vino is the host with 'wine shops that feel the love'. Odd title. Interesting theme. It would seem the doc wants a write-up of the shop itself with any wine recommendation coming in second. Date for entries is the 1st February.

New Wines from the Ventoux


New Wines from the Ventoux.
Resplendent in some funky packaging these are a new range of wines from the Vignerons du Mont Ventoux winery. Looks like at someone in France is doing 'something' to counter the new world onslaught (in terms of packaging, demystifying, approachability). The three wines in the range will host a rear label bearing a piglet head (the emblem of the range) that changes colour when the recommended pouring temperature is reached. This head is printed in thermochromatic ink. Aimed at the lower end of the price scale they don't look too tacky now, do they?

Australian Grape Harvest.

While the UK slugs its way through a dank and rainy January down in Australia the autumn harvest has began; although it has been delayed by extremely hot weather.

ABC.net.au
"The Hunter Valley Vineyard Association says while the harvest will not get into full swing for another 10 days, picking is already under way for the pinot noir and chardonnay varieties used in the region's sparkling wines. Association president Trevor Drayton says the late harvest will not harm the 2006 vintage, but the wine quantity will be down. "In terms of quality it really hasn't impacted it - it probably has improved it a bit, particularly for the reds," he said.

Wine Tasting Note: Balbi Malbec, 2004, Mendoza, Argentina.

Something for sausages and mash. Nothing too extravagant as its just me and the cats tonight. A bottle of Malbec might just fit the bill, well it is going to have to do as its about the cheapest thing in the rack.

Red WineWine Tasting Note:Balbi Malbec, 2004, Mendoza, Argentina.
Threshers £6.99.
An Argentinean with a spice and blackberry nose over a plate medium-bodied in stature. A layer of acidity dominates the palate indicating food is required here. Blackcurrant and raspberry, medium to full bodied. Apart from the noticeable acidity soft and rather drinkable. But not, by far, the best Malbec available. With sausages (and of course other meaty foods) very nice so add two points. If taking advantage of the Threshers three for two deal, which brings this to a more reasonable price, add a further two. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 84/100

More Unwins News.

While the last owners of Unwins seek to sue those they brought the company off for false accounting, suppliers to the firm are looking for recompense. Two French wine firms are investigating to see if directors of the compnay might be personally liable to creditors.

ThisIsMoney.co.uk
"For the first time, the move formally raises the prospect that Unwins directors, led by flamboyant venture capitalist Phillip Cook, could be held personally liable for the company's failure. Cook is chief of DM Private Equity, which bought Unwins for £32m last March. French wine firms La Compagnie Des Vins D'Autrefois and Cave De Lugny have written to administrator and KPMG partner Andy Oliver raising concerns about the final months of the company. "

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Wine Tasting Note: Stormhoek Shiraz, 2003, Western Cape, South Africa.

Late Friday. Only one thing will save us now - red wine and cheese on toast. Not the heights of culinary creativity but with a mob and little in the fridge all we could be bothered to rustle up. Plastic cork removed and wine sploshed into whatever glasses are at hand and are clean - a couple of ISOs, an ex-nutella jar tumbler and some of those cheap 'cut-glass' goblets of dubious taste. Where did they come from exactly?

Wine Tasting Note: Stormhoek Shiraz, 2003, Western Cape, South Africa.
Available from Threshers for £6.99.
The wine is deep mulberry in colour, barely registering on most of the drinkers, as the music is cranked-up and the conversation gets creative and surreal. A peppery aroma and jammy black fruit flavours finds no one disagreeing with its drinkability. As smooth as the acid jazz pumping through the Mordant Shorts with just a tweak of a balsamic-acidic bite on the finish.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100

Cheese on toast

Low Carb Wines to launch in the UK.

Already available in the United States two wines claiming low carbohydrate levels are to be launched in the UK. One.4 Chardonnay and One.6 Merlot will go into various pub chains, such as Wetherspoons, before appearing in the on-trade. The names indicate how many carbohydrates are in a single serving. The wines themselves have not been scientifically changed but have been made from grapes naturally lower in sugar content.

Spanish Boycott Cava.

Calls for greater independence from the Catalan region of Spain have been derided across the rest of the country. This has led to a widespread boycott of products from the area including, perhaps its most famous wine the sparking Cava.

Bloomberg.com
"Nobody is consuming Catalan cava,'' said Daniel Manzano, 43, who started working at a wine shop in Madrid three decades ago. He said this is the first year clients haven't bought cava from Catalonia to toast the holidays. "We don't like it." Cava from the northeastern corner of Spain is the latest casualty of what has become one of the most contentious issues in Spanish politics. Catalonia, which is among the wealthiest of the country's 17 regions and accounts for about 20 percent of the $1 trillion economy, wants to be a ``nation'' within Spain. "

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New Appellation for Bordeaux?

As reported in Decanter the five existing Bordeaux Côtes appellations are gunning for a simpler AOC system; one that the consumer will find easier to understand. The Côtes de Bourg, Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Franc and Premiere Côtes de Bordeaux will be called Côtes de Bordeaux, but will still be allowed to add their speicific origin to the label so we would see Castillon: Côtes de Bordeaux.

Decanter.com
"Four of the five regions have agreed to the plan. Only Côtes de Bourg is resisting, where a spokesman told the local paper, 'There's no guarantee that the new AOC will be successful, and we want to keep the choice over our identity. If it works, then we will be happy to join.'

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Wine Tasting Note: Le Moulin des Nonnes Cuvée Inés, 2004, Minervois, France.


Le Moulin des Nonnes Cuvée Inés.
Wine Tasting Note: Le Moulin des Nonnes Cuvée Inés, 2004, Minervois, France.
Flying Corkscrew Noel Young Wines around £9.00.
Taste off the scale, interest quickly following. Delicious and characterful. Crisp acidity makes for a similarity to a Sauvignon Blanc. Full, rounded, mineral and honeyed. Nutty, guava, lime, apple complexity. Organic. A blend of 50% Roussanne, 40% Grenache Blanc, 105 Muscat Petits Grains. Alcohol 14%. Moulin des Nonnes translates as the Nuns Mill; hence the image on the label. The acidity makes for an excellent match with goats cheese and creamy dishes or, as I did, with a grilled pork chop and Brussel Sprouts in cream with almonds and bacon.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100

Wine Tasting Note: Saints Selection Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand.


Saints Sauvignon Blanc
Wine Tasting Note: Saints Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand.
Threshers £6.99 a bottle.
Screwcap removed the wine is splashed into the glass. The light catches a verdant hue to the colour and sends little shafts of light dancing across the white table cloth. A sniff. Vibrant and pungent. White flowers add a delicate edge to the gooseberry and grass aromas that rise above the swirling wine. A mouthful and some amusing gurgling noises and, seeing as it's just me in the kitchen one hand stirring the pan of rice, a swallow. Soft, typical Sauvignon flavours, with a citric burst on the finish. Clean, fresh, vibrant. A mineral texture and a mass of lemon before a gentle finish. A further slurp and the mineral edge more evident.

The rice is drained, placed on a brilliant white plate, and the strips of liver and clinging slices of shallot scooped onto the top. With a chef-like flourish a pinch of nutmeg settles on the top like the snow-covering on the roofs opposite. In place of the meat cider vinegar is used to deglaze; as its pungency decreases as it boils in the pans residue giving a moment for another slurp on the wine. As the nose crinkles at the vinegars pungency the wine takes on a slightly sharper tone revealing complex apple flavours. Butter is stirred into the heavily reduced sauce; when melted it is poured delicately over the liver. I grab a fork, the plate, my glass and the bottle by the neck and scurry to the living room and watch the penultimate episode of Lost.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100

I have just realised that I tasted the very same wine (although a different vintage) and matched it with the very same dish back in October; either the memory is going due to old age or I am just predictable and unadventurous!

Oddbins to Buy Some Unwins Stores.

I didn't realise that the chairman of DM Private Equity, owners of Unwins, buggered off to Dubai just a couple of days after announcing the groups collapse. At least Threshers is sorting out 200 stores, while the Independent is reporting that Oddbins is in talks for 100 of the remaining 150.

Independent.co.uk
"A deal with Oddbins - which is owned by the French group, Castel - for the bulk of the remaining stores could provide hope for many of the remaining 600 staff. Unwins' administrators, KPMG, are keen to sell off as many of the remaining stores as possible in one deal. However, it is believed they are still considering offers from a number of bidders who want to buy smaller packages of stores."

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Upcoming Tasting notes.

A change of plan. Pub-gathering is off. Late notice at five to ten. A panic though that the 'daily drinking rack' is empty save for air, just minutes to pant into the late closing Threshers a good five minutes away.

For something chilled the fridge is the first stop and a stress-moment over the poor range... the key enters the door... the staff developing a cough. With the 'buy two get a third free' deal ongoing it is impossible, nay daft young fellow, to purchase just the one bottle. In seconds two reds follow the luke-warm Sauvignon Blanc to the counter; a Stormhoek Shiraz and something new-worldy beginning with a D. The lights dim, the card accepted but the wines remain unbagged as the shutters take on a more pressing need. I mutter something sarcastic, as is my want, and a bag is proffered with a gushing appology. It matters little as the forage run is completed successfully. I leave, banging the bag against the door glass. The key turns and a bolt slots into place inches behind my head. Shit, forgot nibbles.



Bordeaux Uprooting.

John over at French Duck - with his pulse rattling along as normal with all things French - reports that Bordeaux has uprooted vines. This is the first time ever that this has occurred with 550 growers being paid by the hectare to pull up grape vines. I can't remember the last time I read in anyone's blog a note on a Bordeaux wine; a reflection perhaps of the medicority in the lower price points and the exclusivity and corresponding prices at the upper levels.

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Wine Tasting Note: Graham's Malvedos Port, 1995, Portugal.


Graham's Malvedos 1995
Another single quinta (vineyard) port and one from the producers top vineyard. While 1995 was not declared as a vintage year the grapes from the Malvedos vineyard were deemed good enough to go into this wine. And grief people, what a wine!

Wine Tasting Note: Graham's Malvedos Port, 1995, Portugal.
Available for £30 a bottle.
Dense, dense colour. Not a huge amount to the nose but I am trying this after a few days after the bottle was opened so it may have lost a little, but the palate is simply stunning. The balance between the richness, the sweetness, the deliciousness of the fruit and the tannic backbone, the structure and the complex prune and spice flavours is superb. Opulent and rich. Like the other single quinta ports I have recently reviewed this will throw a heavy deposit and will need decanting. What a great way to start the year.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100

The south facing vineyard is one of the top estates along the River Douro. It's 68 hectares are planted with a mix of Touriga Francea, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cao and Tinta Amarela.

Wine Tasting Note: Dashwood Pinot Noir, 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand.

This months Wine Blogging Wednesday has had New Zealand Reds designated as the theme by Cork Dork. Damn fine theme. I seldom purchase Kiwi Reds; they tend towards the expensive end of the price range and thoughts of the green, undeveloped wines of the past still pervade. Dashwood is the 'second wine' from the Vavasour stable, a small producer in the Awatere Valley. Get out the duck here people with those little pancake things only Chinese takeaways seem to get right. A mighty fine red counterpart to the Dashwood Sauvignon.

Wine Tasting Note Dashwood Pinot Noir, 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand.
Available from Oddbins for £9.99.
Oh now this is gorgeous - unscrewing the cap the aroma of red berries just bursts from the bottle. There is more to the nose than simple berries though - it has a delicious complexity coupling those berries with plums, currants and a touch of 'earth'. The palate is ripe, juicily so, and rich in a medium-bodied style. Soft. Good length. Distinct apple edge to the those red berries. Alcohol 14%. Screwcap.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

Survey Suggests Wine Labels Mislead Consumers.

Not so much the unbearably boring tasting note but dull labels put off the UK wine buyer. Are we as consumers mislead by wine labels and rely on interesting design instead?

A report by a Chilean company revealed that nearly a half of the UK's wine drinkers prefer wine with a modern label over, I guess a 'traditional' (lets say Bordeaux/Burgundy/Germanic) design. From this survey 85% said they choose Chilean wine (remember it's a Chilean survey) because the labels are simple and easy to understand. I can see that to a degree but do the fine wine producers (still thinking Bordeaux and Burgundy but you could include Rioja, top Italians, Port and the like) really want the masses to 'understand' their wines? Yes is the answer if it pumps up the price I guess.

Dashwood Sauvignon - Best Sauvignon Award.

The Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc I sampled at the end of last month is certainly a cracking wine and, I have just discovered, has been named as the Best Sauvignon Blanc 2005 by Winestate Magazine (Winestate being Australia's leading wine publication). As with so many of these awards there are dozens of trophies and 'Best of's' - Best Fortified, Best Merlot, Best Chardonnay etc etc - a full pdf of the winners is available for download.

New Wine Strategy For France Planned.

Plans afoot to solve the crises in the French wine industry are to include tax exemptions and fixed minimum wine prices... the free market rules in France it seems. Others seem to think a pan-European harmonisation will make a difference. More violent demonstrations to come?

Beverage Daily
"Jean Huillet, head of the General Assembly of Winemakers, said: "France's wine system is very tired. We need to re-organise the hierarchy of the industry, including the Appellation Controlée (AOC). We have to stop saying that AOC will save us. "We must produce products to attract specific consumers and we must explain where the wine is from."