Spittoon.biz Bookmark This page

frey_riesling.jpg

Really sorry Mary Berry but your Hollandaise Sauce isn’t a patch on the one served at Aubaine. Sure yours is a mass produced commercial product, and rather tasty it is too, but enlivening my Eggs Benedict at Aubaine last week was the best Hollandaise I’ve ever sampled. I assume they make it fresh and its not out of a jar…
Breakfast with Cooksister last Saturday was relished at Aubaine, Brompton Road, pre-V&A photo exhibition visit, and, despite some shoddy service (wrong dish brought to Jeanne, having to chase my coffee three times and a noise level only lessened when they pulled back the louvered windows) the food was superb. So good in fact I could only sedate a hankering for Eggs Benedict again by constructing my own version a day or so later.

Then of course I had this jar of Merry Berry’s Hollandaise to finish.

Step forward asparagus. Specifically a bunch cut fresh that morning from a family producer just 40 minutes’ walk from where I live. Asparagus needs Hollandaise. But does Asparagus with Hollandaise need wine?

Is there still much fuss made about matching wine with this seasonal green shoot? Most commentators don’t have an issue so I assume it’s one of those old time truism’s that really don’t hold much credence. Seems there are a lot of these in the wine world, passing through the years as steadfast fact. A little over a year ago Fiona Beckett asked, via twitter, for drink recommendations with asparagus. Answers ranged from Muscadet, to Aligoté to Muscat (?!) to Arneis. Good to see a smattering of Alsace and Austrian wine suggestions, for Riesling would be my initial choice. Surprising perhaps from a chap who is on record as not being a lover of the grape at all!

While those spears are a-cooking atop the griddle pan and Mary Berry’s finest is chilling fridge-side, crack open a bottle of Dominique et Julien Frey’s Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2009 [Adegga / Snooth]. Dry but weighty. Mineral and floral. Little of that ‘petrol’ edge that some find attractive, this is all fresh fruits and soft lime flavours. Alcohol is only 12.5%. Refreshing. Savour the play of vegetable and wine. The season is short after all. The estate, holding just 13 hectares just outside Dambach Le Ville, has been producing wines under biodynamic rules since 2001.

“We strive to convey to the wine the energy and life that we provide to our grapes so that the wine is the most palatable and alive possible.”

And the Riesling with the asparagus? Just about damn perfect. Just go easy on the Hollandaise, that vinegar component isn’t going to do any wine much good. Even with Mary Berry’s deft touch.

asparagus

Leave a Comment »




Advert

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Recent Posts

31
Aug

Moustachioed Wine Man

Somewhere during the visit to Pichon Longueville I spotted this sad looking chap. The drooped shoulders just add to his unhappy demeanour or maybe its theRead More

27
Aug

A Wine For Your Burger

Today is National Burger Day. I am sure Burger King and the ol’ golden triangle guys are loving it. But something a little more classy andRead More

26
Aug

Video: Tanqueray No. Ten Silver Martini Cocktail

This month Tanqueray No. TEN celebrated at WORLD CLASS, the annual search for the globe’s best bartenders, hosted in the heart of London at 33 FitzroyRead More

24
Aug

Qcumber and Gin

Cucumber – an occasional garnish for a gin and tonic and one that works best with herbaceous-led gins. Looking at the likes of Caorunn and GinRead More

10
Aug

Winery Outbuilding Chateau Mauvesin-Barton

A photo taken in Bordeaux for this weeks Sunday Wine Shot – rather apt as the group who went on the trip are meeting for aRead More

7
Aug

Cocktails at Scarfes

I have to say I do love this bar. The plush, slightly eclectic décor had me as I walked through the door, while the cocktails wereRead More

Top

© 2004-2014 Spittoon.biz All Rights Reserved