October 31, 2011

Bastianich, Friulano

By In Vineyard & Wine Travel, Wine Notes
I had no idea where we were; I was a little unsure which day it actually was. But here we were, disgorged from the bus at a vineyard somewhere in the wilds of Fruili. My little GPS positioning gadget (for tagging the photos on return) wasn’t coordinating, not that it would really help in knowing where we were.

From behind a vine popped a shaggy haired, bearded American. Some had already met him. At one of the tasting tables from yesterday I presume. They joke at being in “Wayne’s World”. This was his territory; him being Wayne Young, a contented, amiable chap who works for the Bastianich Winery.

Dull weather means the photos lack a little sparkle and photographic inspiration was a little lacking, but Wayne gives us an entertaining half hour describing the vines and a potted history of the estate and how he became involved in the wine making. He wandered by sometime in the eighties and just happened to be offered a job… been here ever since.

It’s Autumn here, up in the hills, with a heavy cloud cover reminiscent of long dull winter days in the UK. The vines, plucked of their grapes a few weeks past, are turning in a final colourful flourish. Even under the dulling cloud cover they exude a warmth. A chill sets in so we debunk to the winery proper for a little pre-lunch tasting session. It’s just twenty past nine in the morning.

Bastianich is run by Joe Bastianich “father, author, TV personality, musician and marathoner” who also happens to own a string of some 17 restaurants across America. The Friulian winery, opened in 1997, was joined by a Tuscan venture three years later.

We were given just three wines, from a range of eleven. But with these we, as Wayne enthused, were given the unabashed “Wow factor”.

A white is first, The Bastianich Vespa Bianco, 2009, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy [Adegga / Snooth]. With this the estate aims to “produce the greatest white wine in Italy”. Blending equal measures (45%) of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with a touch of local Picolit they have crafted a wine so elegant and beautifully fresh and textural that you could believe their “greatest wine” goal has been reached. The Picolit, gives texture, and is vinified dry. Usually the grape, “a great pain in the arse”, is dried and made into sweet wines. Its difficult to grow, its difficult to ripen fully and supplies tiny yields. I’m captivated – the wildflower aromas of the wine, the richness countered by a mineral backbone and that elegance are gorgeous. That acidity means Vespa is a white that will age, seven to ten years is suggested.

A second white is poured, the Bastianich Plus, 2007, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy [Adegga / Snooth] “an extreme style of Tocai”. Its from old vine Tocai (Friulano) of which 10% are bunch dried “appassito” to further concentrate the flavour. This drying process means the grapes loose about 1/3rd of their water content, a process that can take up to 6 weeks. The Plus retains some sweetness (7g sugar which is hardly a concern) and leans somewhat to the styles of wines from Alsace. It divides opinion. Some find it overtly American in style too rich, too ‘explosive’; although Wayne denies it was specifically designed for the American market and the companies restaurants. Me? With a liking for the wines of Alsace I am a huge fan…

Another wine that will age. When young hugely versatile in matching with food – fish and sushi are mentioned as are quite spicy dishes. With age though soft cheeses are suggested.

Finally a red, the Bastianich Calabrone, 2007, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy [Adegga / Snooth]. (Calabrone is a hornet). This wine has a complicated construction. Refosco grapes make up 70% of which half are dried. 10% is from Schioppettino all of which are dried and then there is 10% Pignolo and 10% Merlot. Each is vinified separately before blending, aging in new oak for 24 months before a final two years in bottle before release. Its magnificent but others disagree finding it far too extracted, sweet (10g sugar, more than the white) with an explosion of spices, chocolate and deep, deep red fruits on the palate. A big wine for robust dishes. Wild Boar and steak are suggested. These certainly were the wineries “Wow” bottles.

In retrospect one wishes one had purchased a bottle or two at the time, as some of the group indeed did.

While these wines from Bastianich were tasted in the winery several from the extended range are available through Bibendum in the UK. They currently list the Vespa 2008 at £19.13 a bottle alongside three other wines. The two blockbuster wines – the Plus, and the Calabrone are made in tiny quantities with prices to match; €60 for the Calabrone for example.

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Top :: Comments

  1. Paola Tich October 31, 2011

    One wishes one had bought a bottle or two as well…. esp the Vespa and Calabrone.

  2. Wink Lorch October 31, 2011

    Thanks for this, Andrew – I enjoyed the visit too, even though some of us found the wines tasted had perhaps a more ‘polished’ character (dare I suggest, more commercial style) than some we tasted on our short visit to Friuli, that is not necessarily a bad thing.

    Wayne was kind enough to give me a bottle of the Ribolla Gialla 2010 that Brett and I tasted once we were back in France and this is one of the wines imported by Bibendum … it had very a very distinct varietal nose of ripe yellow fruits. I found the palate ripe if a touch soft, lacking zip that I enjoy, but that is a very personal observation. Frankly, it is really good to see this variety available in the UK.

    • Andrew Barrow November 3, 2011

      ‘polished’/’American’ perhaps different sides of the same knife?

      Will certainly keep an eye out for others in the range; dying to try them!

  3. Wayne Young November 2, 2011

    Thanks for the great post and the kind words! I appreciate your accuracy and clarity here and your excellent notes.

    It was a pleasure to show the wines to you all here at the winery and to try and tell our story. I hope I was able to transmit some of my enthusiasm for the wines and the place.

  4. Douglas November 2, 2011

    A lovely and enticing lead in. Interesting character, gripping sounding wine. Did you secure any spare souvenir samples?

    • Andrew Barrow November 3, 2011

      Glad you approve Mr Douglas… no mention of the fascinating ending though…

  5. Ritchie November 3, 2011

    Another fabulous review, Andrew.
    This one though is more special to me ’cause you reviewed one of the many excellent winemakers from the corner of the World I was born and move back to a few years ago. I would have loved meeting you again if it wasn’t you could not easily decide when/where to go.
    I feel reassured though you may come back now that you sampled some of the greatest wines produced in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Don’t forget to give me a buzz and especially take Douglas with you too.
    Thanks for your words.

    • Andrew Barrow November 3, 2011

      To be truthful I had totally forgotten that you were in this corner of the world! Would have loved to have met up but as I said in the email the tour was all pre-arranged by others and I wasn’t really sure exactly where I was at any given moment (no maps!).

      Next time for sure…

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