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A guide to matching cheese and wine
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Bisol Prosecco and Cichetti (canapés)

The only thing I really wanted after a full days tasting at the London International Wine Fair was some food; the invite to a Bisol and canapé tasting was ideal.

Taking the Italian version of tapas, cichetti, and matching a different dish with a Prosecco from the Bisol range was the aim of the tasting at the newly opened Wine Theatre in Southwark. Not only a stylish venue and, I should add, free food and drink but a chat with the owner/chef too (who use to be the personal chef of Harrods owner Mohamed Al Fayed. Well, it impressed me!). They source their ingredients from the local markets of Borough and Smithfield and offer punters a free selection of cichetti everyday between 5:30 and 8pm. Surprisingly they find some reticence with us Brits on the take-up of the food; many expecting a hefty bill at the end I guess.

In Madrid I adore the tapas dishes - free or paid for; it is the main reason I returned there a couple of weeks back (for the tapas and seeing my old mate Roberto too of course). But this is cichetti, the Italian version, with the bubbles supplied by Bisol.

First with the 'basic' Bisol Jaio Prosecco a superb calamari brushetta

Bisol Jaio Prosecco and calamari brushetta

Continue reading "Bisol Prosecco and Cichetti (canapés)" »

Wine and Charcuterie Matching - Brief Notes from a Tasting

Wine and Charcuterie Tasting

All it needed was our 'lecturer' to lob a stick of chalk at my head and I'd be right back at school. I ended up, as I did at The Misbourne, in the back row, this time stuck between old boy Brett and cheeky-quipping Douglas. Brett found a fascination with the bread... Douglas was, well, being Douglas. I tried desperately to not indulge in their mischief...

We were here for a Circle of Wine Writers Wine and Charcuterie Tasting hosted by Fiona (matchingfoodandwine.com) at the new Terroirs wine bar in William IV Street, London. The Charcuterie comprising a delicately flavoured Jamon de Teruel from Spain, a nicely textural Duck Rillette, Saucisson Sec from the Pyrenees and a garlic and spice Terrine Terroirs.

Rather than the 'usual suspects' to accompany charcuterie (simple rustic French wines) Fiona picked a more eclectic list of bottles to sample, each calling on the intrinsic flavours of the food (smoky, spicy, garlic). The only thing not offered was a sparkling...



Rose Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Maitres Vignerons de Saint-Tropez Rosé Carte Noire, 2008, France.
Price: £9.99 Nicolas
A nice opening shot - and as expected a fine match for the array of foods. Nice berry fruits and a decently long, dry, finish. A 'standard' rosé wine for such fare and I thought a superb foil to the Terrine, although others disagreed.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Assyrtiko Hatzidakis, 2007, Santorini, Greece.
Stockist: Caves de Pyrene Waitrose Price: £9.00
Not a wine I would ever have considered, interesting but didn't really work for me lacking a bit of zip and zing. Seafood and shellfish apparently work better. The pepper edge in the saucisson was really emphasised by the wine.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Weingut Christmann Riesling IDIG Grosses Gewaechs, 2007, Pfalz, Germany.
Stockist: Charles Taylor Price: £35
Not being a lover of Riesling - heresy I realise - I did enjoy this wine. Very young still but the way I like it; a touch of weighty sweetness, superb fruit but sadly not a wine that worked well with any of the food. Too delicate in flavour I think; but then what do the Germans eat with all their charcuterie?


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Chapel Hill Verdelho, 2007, Australia.
£9.49 in independents including Planet of the Grapes, Ongar Wines Ltd, Australian Wines Online, Rehills of Jemond, Badmington Wines
A zesty citrus and nettle wine; far too forceful with the charcuterie though.


Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Lambrusco Reggiano Concerto, 2007, Emilia Romagna, Italy.
Stockist: Everywine, Harrods, Booths Price: £8-£10 In terms of matching with the food this was the star. A combination of bubbles, a bitter twist to the wine and perfect acidity was great with the rillettes and the (positive) fat of the jamon.


Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Jean-Luc Matha Cuvee Lairis Marcillac, 2006, Marcillac, France
Stockist: Caves de Pyrène Price: £9.99
Not convinced this rustic country wine (from the South West of France) really worked as well as others seemed to think. Remained rustic and overly tannic for me.


Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon, 2007, Beaujolais, France
Price: around £16 a bottle from Caves de Pyrene, slurp.co.uk
I believe there were a couple of markedly different bottles of this being poured; I managed to get some of the 'good' bottle. The lack of tannins and the soft fruit brought out the wonderful sweetness in the jamon particularly. For someone who never drinks Beaujolais this was a revelation; my second choice for the top match.


Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Isabel Estate Pinot Noir, 2005, New Zealand
£18.55 Berry Brothers & Rudd
A lovely fruit-forward Pinot that worked with the charcuterie much better than expected. Lovely spicy, sprightly palate that seemed particularly good with the duck rillette (duck plus pinot is always a good choice) and managed the garlic infused Terrine too.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Manzanilla La Gitana Sherry, NV, Spain.
£8.49 at Tesco, Waitrose, Sainsbury, Majestic, Somerfield, Wine Rack, plus independents.
Not a fan of Riesling nor Sherry; more howls of derision from my neighbours. Despite being a tapas favourite this wine just trampled over all the food. Far too forceful and strong. The salty component matched the salt in the jamon OK but the delicate flavour was lost. Unsurprisingly this was many peoples preferred choice.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: El Grifo Canari, 1997, Lanzarote, Spain.
A cream sherry (or rather sherry-style wine) from Lanzarote. Far too sweet for the charcuterie but a marvellous opportunity to try such a delicious wine. There you go - sherry and delicious in the same sentence!


A learning experience; just much more enjoyable than my (detested) school days. I did miss the juvenile giggling at the cookery teachers hairy legs encased in green tights mind...

Fiona has posted her own take on the session on Matching Food and Wine.

Good With Seafood - Bodegas Fariña Malvasia, 2007, Toro, Spain

Bodegas Farina Malvasia 2007, Toro, Spain



A recurring event - a wine that ranks as 'just fine' by itself is raised in ones estimation when coupled with food. This nicely weighty white from Spain is another such example where a succesful match brings added pleasure to a meal.

White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Bodegas Fariña Malvasia, 2007, Toro, Spain.
Stockist: dunno [More: Adegga / Snooth]

A light simple nose - a touch of herbs, a smidge of yeast and a layer of lemon. More activity on the palate though with a gentle lemony start giving way to a sherbet, grapefruity palate and a tang of acidity. Pleasant enough and very drinkable but seldom is Malvasia ever going to knock yer socks into a cocked-hat (or something). Unoaked. Alcohol 12.5%.

Its clean, fresh crispness was a joy though with some crispy Calamari rings dunked in mayonnaise. While the squid wasn't the best - it was frozen rather than fresh and certainly not as good as the mammoth sized rings myself and Douglas devoured with passion at a local Italian last week - but the wine worked wonders. When they say 'good with seafood' this partnership is what they have in mind.


Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]


By way of proving that I don't just make these food and wine matches up, a picture of the very same calamari. And yes, they were cold by the time I had finished taking pictures!

Calamari

Mid-week Combinations - M&S Australian Chardonnay

M&S Chardonnay and Food Matching

Ok, so serving chunky chips with a potato topped pie was a little thoughtless; but hunger and a need to escape a tourist-heaving Oxford were upper-most. At least I managed to resist an M&S Dessert!

Many of Marks and Spencer's ready meals are on double offer - buy one get 1 half price plus a 1/3 discount and includes the Gastropub King Prawn, Cod, Salmon and Smoked Haddock Pie and Chunky Chips. Throw in a bottle of wine and a meal for two worked out at just over a fiver-a-head. Which also includes 5p for a carrier bag.



White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: M&S Australian Chardonnay, 2007, South Australia
Stockist: Marks & Spencer Price: £5.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]

Generously flavoured - all guava and pears with a nice dash of apple and crisp, stone fruits. A small part has seen some oak for 'a subtle dab of extra richness'. Full, firm but balanced with good acidity.
Produced and bottled by the Yalumba Wine Company, states the small print, for this, like all M&S wines is an 'own-label'. On-line a case of 12 is listed at the equivalent of £4.49 a bottle - great value (add 2 value points to the rating). Alcohol 14%.


Scribblings Rating - 88/100 [3.5 out of 5]

Maybe just a touch too flavoursome for the fish pie but the creamy elements in both wine and food really complimented each other. The wines acidity at the same time cutting through the richness. Hell, its mid-week, who cares! Buy and enjoy.



Continue reading "Mid-week Combinations - M&S Australian Chardonnay" »

Torre Beratxa Garnacha Rosado, 2006, Navarra, Spain

Torre Beratxa Rosado 2006

Rather than using a packet mix for falafels, as the recipe in Delicious suggested, a pack of ready-made falafel's were picked up in the local supermarket. Wrapped in warmed tortillas with cherry tomatoes, slices of cucumber and crumbled feta cheese these made for a great summery meal while enjoying the evening warmth. On the side a tub of yoghurt mixed with plenty of shredded fresh mint leaves.

For a wine match a rosé seemed the obvious choice.



Rosé Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Torre Beratxa Garnacha Rosado, 2006, Navarra, Spain.
Stockist: Threshers Price: £5.49 [More on Adegga]

A touch of paint on the nose but little else. Deep red fruits, a smidgen of licorice and a tannic splash on the finish. A touch of sour cherry, a little blackcurrant all mixed with a soupçon of raspberry. Fresh, crisp and lively.
100% Garnacha/Grenache. Alcohol 13.5%.

Scribblings Rating - 86/100 [3.25 out of 5]




Continue reading "Torre Beratxa Garnacha Rosado, 2006, Navarra, Spain" »

Midweek Combinations - Nederburg Chardonnay Viognier

Nederburg Chardonnay Viognier 2007Midweek - too tired after a day in the office and too hot after the commute to want to do too much in the kitchen; a dive into the supermarket to grab a bottle and something to throw on to a plate without too much fuss. The wine should be cheap - lacking in energy to think too much about the alcohol we are slurping.

For me that supermarket is Waitrose. The wine is a bottle of £4.99 South African white while the eye is drawn to a tortilla from the new Delicatezze range. Specifically Edamame Bean, Artichoke and Lemon Pesto Tortilla made from free range eggs, which appeared better value than other dishes in the same range; and more substantial too. Add a salad and a meal is made.

Taking little more than 15 minutes in the oven you might need to make use of the quick-chill machine to get the white to non-shelf, drinkable temperature.

White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Nederburg Chardonnay-Viognier, 2007, Western Cape, South Africa.
Available from Waitrose for £4.99. [More on Adegga]
Crisp and refreshing - a touch acidic perhaps but nicely rounded with peach, melon and floral notes. The Chardonnay has seen some barrel ageing, but the whole is lifted by the lemon floweriness of the Viognier. It's fine and fine summer-garden drinking. Alcohol 13.5%. Fine with the salad-tortilla combination; you don't afterall, want anything you have to think too much about.

Scribblings Rating - 84/100 [3 out of 5]



Continue reading "Midweek Combinations - Nederburg Chardonnay Viognier" »

Château Laures Blanc, 2006, Bordeaux, France

Château Laures 2006

White WineWine Tasting Note: Château Laures Blanc, 2006, Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux, France
Available from Bordeaux-Undiscovered [more] for £6.75 (normally £9.64)
The Semillon really comes though on the nose giving a lovely herby touch to the lemon-citrus that dominates. Palate is nicely rich and full with a slight spritz and good acidity balancing it all out. A honeyed touch to the lemony complexity all melds together wonderfully.

Château Laures is a 70 hectare estate owned and run for many generations by the same family. They've pulled together a typical Bordeaux blend for this bottle - 60% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Muscadelle. Alcohol 12.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]

While more than suitable for a wide range of foods - salads and fish particularly recommended - a match with a Marmade Tomato Tart worked superbly well. Based on a recipe in Rick Stein's French Odyssey this combines pesto, garlic, tomatoes and puff pastry into a lovely spring-type dish. I added a slice of ham and a little Mozarella to the topping just to make them a little more substantial.

Continue reading "Château Laures Blanc, 2006, Bordeaux, France" »

Food and Wine Match - Spicy Chickpea Fritters

Periquita White and Chickpea FrittersThese lovely little fritters will pretty much go with most white wines, at least those that are blessed with a crisp acidity and a medium-to-full body. I selected the Periquita White for the simple reason that it is currently reduced to a bargain £3.99 at Waitrose.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Periquita White, 2007, Setabul, Portugal.
Currently on offer at Waitrose for £3.99.

Even at the normal price of £4.99 it's a fine little blend of Arinto and Moscatel from the Setubal Peninsula, south of Lisbon. The Arinto gives the crispness and freshness, while the Moscatel lends a lovely aromatic component plus a level of spiciness to the flavour that proved to match so well with the fritters.

Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]

The fritter recipe comes from the regular food-blog event, Waiter There's Something In My..., that I co-host over on SpittoonExtra with this particular round, 'Pulses', selected and hosted by Cooksister. As a regular host I do try and make some of the dishes submitted to each round. The varied creations from across the globe never ceases to amaze. The Spicy Chickpea Fritters came from Australian blogger Kazari at I Think I Have A Recipe For That. The mix of caraway, cumin and coriander also complimented the wine; the yoghurt sauce is a must too!

Sparkling Shiraz and Food

Bundaleer ShirazIt was all the rage a couple of years ago for sparkling red wines to be served with Christmas dinner; no idea if you were allowed to drink them at any other time mind!

The delightful Joanne of Henley Fine Wines popped over the other week, brandishing, as his her want, a couple of bottles of wine - one of which was a sparkling red. The NV Bundaleer Shiraz is one of the prize offering that her small company imports direct.

I really wanted to do this wine justice with its food accompaniment and scoured another new addition - Rick Stein's French Odyssey - for something that would benefit from the bubbles and the red fruit flavours. Step forward Sautéed Lambs Kidneys on Toasted Brioche with Sauvignon Blanc, Mustard and Tarragon!

Champagne/Sparkling WineBundaleer Sparkling Shiraz, NV, Southern Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Available from Henley Fine Wines [more] for £8.50 More on: Adegga / Snooth
While there is a touch of sweetness it just makes this blackberry flavoured wonder all the more drinkable. Nicely balanced with plenty of classy fizz and good balance. Medium bodied. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]


Sautéed Lambs Kidneys on Toasted Brioche with Sauvignon Blanc, Mustard and Tarragon.
Adapted from Rick Stein's French Odyssey [Amazon.co.uk £13]
For one
4 sliced lambs kidneys with white cores removed
Knob of unsalted butter
Large glug of Sauvignon Blanc
¼ tablespoon Dijon mustard
Fresh tarragon
Double cream
2 thick slices of brioche toasted

Melt some butter and fry the kidneys over a high heat for about 2 minutes on each side until lightly browned but still pink in the middle. Remove and keep warm. De-glaze the pan with the wine and reduce. Add the mustard, any free-run juices from the kidneys, chopped tarragon and cream and boil until a nice sauce consistency is reached. Season.

Top the brioche with the kidneys and spoon over the sauce. Garnish with tarragon.

The dish is very rich - all that glorious cream I guess - with the wines bubbles cutting through, leaving the palate refreshed (and hankering for more!). The sweetness of the brioche and the wine matched nicely; I was enjoying the combination so much I failed to notice the tannins. In fact I failed to notice much else until the bottle ran dry!


A dish for Howard Park Sauvignon Blanc

Pasta with Broad beans and Howard Park Sauvignon BlancThis is adapted from a Giorgio Locatelli recipe from the May 2008 issue of Delicious Magazine. The original is rather convoluted and excessive in its use of saucepans! Apart from time the most onerous part is podding the beans. As you can see from the photo I used Gnocchi pasta, Locatelli suggests fresh Pappardelle - which, curse my luck, was unobtainable in my little market town when I needed some! It worked fine with the smaller, standard, pasta.

Extremely Spring-like in its use of fresh broad beans and rocket it also proved a superb match for the 'green' flavours inherent in the Howard Park Sauvignon.


White WineWine Tasting Note: Howard Park Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, Western Australia
Soon to be available from Bibendum for £11 per bottle
The punch on the palate perfectly replaces what it lacks in colour; it is rather pale and lemon-juice in colour. The green, grassy, herby, mouth-wateringly juicy fruit is from the portion of grapes sourced from the Pemberton region of Western Australia. For the citrus characteristics and the weighty feel say thanks to the 50% from the Margaret River. Very focused. Very crunchy and fresh. Alcohol 12.5%.

Scribblings Rating - 88/100 [3.5 out of 5]

A wine for Pasta with Broad Beans and Rocket

Continue reading "A dish for Howard Park Sauvignon Blanc" »

Combinations - A Wine for Baked Sea Bass

Pinot Grigio and Sea Bass

A heck of a while since the last food and wine matching exercise so today a wine matched to a simple, but delicious, fish dish.

The recipe for Oven-baked Sea Bream/Bass with Fennel and Dill (specifics below) was created by Giancarlo and Katie Caldesi to accompany the Gabbiano Pinot Grigio 2007. The producers also suggest that the wine would be great with Baked Lemon and Herb Crusted Salmon but the Sea Bass looked so tempting from Oxford's Covered Market I plumped for this recipe instead.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Gabbiano Pinot Grigio, 2007, Venezie, Italy.
Available from Sainsbury's and Tesco for £5.99.
A soft, gentle wine. Not one that makes you sit up and explode with adjectives but pleasurable and with a touch of character - hints of almonds, orange rind and citrus. Its lightly herbed edge would make it a fine partner for salads and most fish dishes, so with this specific partnership it was understandably a great match. I might have overdone the garlic a little and under-utilised the dill (I often find it a little overpowering in flavour and I'm not a huge fan) but the Pinot Grigio melded all together - a recommended pairing.

Scribblings Rating - 88/100 [3.5 out of 5]

Continue reading "Combinations - A Wine for Baked Sea Bass" »

A Wine For Ouefs Hollique

hollick_spk_merlot.jpg I admit to cheating for this one. The recipe, a breakfast type dish of smoked salmon served on a toasted muffin with a poached egg, fresh spinach and hollandaise sauce, was sent to me by the good folks at Hollick, Australia. The dish, apparently a favourite of Ian Hollick, they recommend serving with Hollick Sparkling Merlot.

Many an Aussie Sparkling Shiraz has passed my lips, but a sparkling Merlot? This may just be a first.

Red WineWine Tasting Note: Hollick Sparkling Merlot, 2004, Coonawarra, Australia.
Available from Independents including Andrew Chapman Fine Wines for £13.99 & Australian Wines Online £14.20.

The aroma from this lovely wine leaps from the glass - pure blackberry fruit. The fizz, hardly noticeable in the glass, really explodes in the mouth giving a fine, frothy, sensation. A fresh palate followed by a mellow finish. A good, long, length and a lick of tannin evident but generally soft, fruity and hugely drinkable. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]

The problem with eggs, when matching with wine, is their mouth-coating qualities. What a sparkling wine does well is clean the palate and counter this effect. The thought that the salmon might be better replaced with a slice of black pudding might have worked better; as it is though it is a good, interesting, combination.




Continue reading "A Wine For Ouefs Hollique" »

Combinations #15 : A Wine For Ouefs Hollique

Amongst the sauce recipes submitted for the Waiter There's Something In My... over on SpittoonExtra were several advocating Hollandaise Sauce; a good link me thinks for a recipe/wine matching exercise.

Ouefs Hollique

Ingredients:

Muffin - halved
Fresh baby spinach
quality smoked salmon
poached free range egg
Hollandaise Sauce

Method:
Simply layer the spinach on to a toasted muffin followed by a slice or two of smoked salmon. Carefully place a freshly poached egg or two on top and complete with a dollop of Hollandaise.

Eggs are never that easy to match - the mouth-coating texture can play havoc with a wine. It might be a touch tricky to find a top-notch wine match this time.

A Wine For Pasta with Walnut Sauce

Food and Wine Matching - a wine for Pasta with Walnut SauceI've sampled this wine before - same vintage - way back in December 2005. Time has not been that gracious; just hope the wine hasn't been sitting on the shelf for the year and a half. My preferred choice to accompany this dish would have been something pale and interesting from Italy but the Italian white wine section in Threshers was dismal. [see previous post]

White WineWine Tasting Note: Espiral Old Vine Macabeo Chardonnay, 2004, Somontano, Spain.
Threshers £5.99.
The flavour - lightly oaked, it has a distinctive waxy-edged flavour, due no-doubt to the extended age. Plenty of citrus and old pineapple flavours with a nutty dimension. There's a dry, almost tannic finish. Forceful acidity.

I'm being, perhaps, a touch harsh. The wine is certainly distinctive, refreshingly unusual and a food wine rather than for sipping on a warm summers afternoon. Alcohol 13%. The label depicts the old bush vines "from the cool climate of Somontano in the Pyreenees foothills."
Scribblings Rating - 82/100 [2.75 out of 5]

The pasta sauce was a rather richer affair than I anticipated, but exceedingly tasty despite a certain Mr May's derision! The wines acidity balanced the richness and the nutty edge became more noticeable; a good match overall.

The original recipe suggested the use of green fettuccine but, as can be seen in the photo, a substitute of Fettuccine all'uovo was brought into play.

Continue reading "A Wine For Pasta with Walnut Sauce" »

Combinations 14: A Wine For Pasta with Walnut Sauce

Combinations: Food and Wine matching ideasAn Italian slant I feel is in order for the next round of Combinations. This recipe is taken from a recipe book that I have had for years but do not recall ever cooking from - Antonio Carluccio's Passion for Pasta

The idea behind Combinations is to create the dish from the recipe and report on a wine match to accompany the dish. This dish requires the use of Fettuccine, a wider version of Tagliatelle, but a green/verdi version; of which, despite forays into a deli and Waitrose I have failed to find.

Fettuccine Verdi with Walnut Sauce serves 4.
  • 1 tablespoon fresh white breadcrumbs
  • 150g shelled walnuts or hazelnuts
  • 1 small clove garlic
  • 50g freshly grated Pecorino cheese
  • Salt
  • 1 tablespoon chopped Marjoram
  • 6 tablespoons olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons strianed Greek yoghurt
  • 450g fresh green fettuccine
  • freshly ground black pepper
Soak breadcrumbs in water for 10 minutes, then squeeze them dry. Remove skins from the nuts by immersing them in hot water then rubbing. Dry on paper towels. Place in mortar with breadcrumbs, garlic, the Pecorino, salt and Marjoram.

Pound with a pestle to a fine texture. Slowly add the oilve oil, stirring constantly. Stir in the yoghurt to make a smooth sauce.

Cook the pasta for 5-7 minutes. Drain and toss the pasta with the sauce.

Not a terribly tricky dish to find a decent match for I would have thought - nuts, cheese a little herby edge... what can you suggest?

A Wine for Garlic Prawns

A wine for garlic prawnsThe recipe ended with a suggestion for Viognier as the perfect match. Indeed Francesca went this route and found a delicious match with a bottle of Jewel Viognier (see comments).

Alex at Eating Leeds went all sparkling on us with a bottle of Domenico de Bertiol Prosecco. Great with the prawns themselves but a very bad clash with the salad.

It's a fresh, light, citrussy wine with some residual sweetness and it went really well with the prawns - the citrus cutting through the richness of the butter and prawns, the sweetness mixing well with the fish sauce and lemon. A very happy match."

Something a little different for me too - a white Côtes du Rhône. I can't claim any great thought went on the choice; more a question of 'a white in the fridge lets use that'.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Jaboulet Côtes du Rhône Parallèle 45, 2006, Rhône, France.

Available for £7.99 from Surf4Wine [more]

A waxy, herby aroma very distinctive and unusual flavour. Quite full but dry with good length of flavour. The herby element picked up the coriander in the recipe but, rather than the wine being a complimentary match, the contrast was marked.

This is not to say it was a bad combination, rather that the flavours were contrasting and brought out subtle complexities in both. The wines quite substantial acidity cut through the garlic-buttery sauce beautifully. Served with noodles the dish could have benefited with a little peppering up with a dash of chili, as Francesca explained in her comment.

Parallèle 45 refers to the 45th latitude, half-way between the Equator and North Pole which runs through the vineyard. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100


Combinations 13: A Wine For Garlic Buttered Prawns

Combinations: Food and Wine matching ideasA test both of wine-to-food matching and a recipe from a new recipe book. The Global Grub cookbook has 9 recipes aimed at the novice. Also good, I surmise, for a quick and easy mid-week dish.

As can be read in the Foodie List review the cook book makes it easy to both purchase the ingredients (a shopping list of requirements is supplied) as well as giving minute by minute instructions on cooking each dish. The shopping list suggests a wine or some other drink for each dish; for this recipe 'Sizzling Garlic-Buttered Prawns' they mention a Viognier. I wonder...

Garlic-Buttered Prawns hardly requires a recipe being basically uncooked tiger prawns tossed in a little butter with a little flavouring...

Sizzling Garlic-Buttered Prawns
Heat a 'large slurp' of olive oil in a frying pan or wok over a medium heat. Add about 1/4 block of butter. Add tiger prawns to the pan. Keep them moving.

Add a teaspoon of Thai fish sauce and some black pepper. Add 2 large chopped garlic cloves and the juice of 1/2 a lemon. Add 3/4 packet of fresh coriander, chopped. When prawns cooked serve over a fresh salad, topped with the remaining coriander and some crusty bread. I might serve with noodles, 'cause I like noodles.

A wine for Melon, Pecorino and Culatello Anti-Pasti

Val de Rayas FariñaI'm feeling particularly smug - the wine I picked for matching with this antipasti turns out to be a damn brilliant match.

I was after something a 'little different' to match this mix of sweet juicy melon, salty Iberian meat and firm Pecornio cheese, the twelth edition of Combinations. A Prosecco was initially top of the list until this half bottle of Vino Dulce came my way while in Spain last week.

Dessert WineWine Tasting Note: Fariña Val de Reyes, 2004, Castilla y León, Spain.
No idea of UK stockists. Decanter Wines list wines from Fariña, this bottle is not one of them.

Lemons all the way on the palate mixed with a little orange peel and a dash of sherbet. Val de Reyes is a mix of Moscatel and Albino according to the back label, with an alcohol level of 13%. It is just a lowly Vino de Tierra.

It just matched so deliciously with the food. The mix of flavours from the salty ham (I used Palata Ibérico from Spain), the fine Pecorino, the freshly plucked basil, the heat from the chili countered by the sweetest melon were all handled, tamed and emphasised by the wine. Just a superb match.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

In total contrast to my sweet wine selection Eating Leeds, a few weeks ago, selected a 'lightly chilled bottle of Brown Brothers 2005 Tarrango' as their choice of wine to match the food. An interesting choice and one that I would never have considered.

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Combinations 12: A wine for Melon, Pecorino and Culatello Anti-Pasti

Combinations: Food and Wine matching ideasThe flavours in this anti-pasti dish attract but leave me perplexed in what wine to serve; an ideal choice of food then for the next Combinations food and wine matching exercise.

The recipe for Melon, Pecorino and Culatello Antipasti with balsamic vinegar and chilli dressing appears on page 139 of the May 2007 issue of Delicious. Culatello, the focus of the magazines preceding article, is a select air-dried ham. I am sure other 'lesser' quality air-dried meats can be used as a replacement.

Finding a wine to compliment the mix of sweet melon, salty cheese and the ham plus some heat from the chilli dressing, is going to be tricky...

Melon, Pecorino and Culatello Antipasti with Balsamic Vinegar and Chilli Dressing.

Serves 4 as a starter (or 2 as a mains I suspect)
Per person take 4 wedges of melon (cantaloup, galia or honeydew) and pile 3 slices of culatello on top. Scatter with a few very finely sliced pieces of Pecorino and 6 small fresh basil leaves.

The dressing is a red chilli, de-seeded and finely chopped, mixed with 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar and seasoning. This is drizzled over the dish.

Combinations 11 - A Wine For Garlic Soup

Domaine du Tariquet RoseThere are two possible versions of this post. The first relays in graphic detail the making of the soup and how the blender top flew off half way through operating - one burnt hand, one garlic-infused jumper, one very splattered counter-top... The other version calls on the wine twitterers for wine matching suggestions.

I'll go with the second version.

Since Eating Leeds first put out the challenge for a wine to accompany garlic soup I have had several wine suggestions whirling around in my head - a Chardonnay, a Viognier or perhaps a full Pinot Gris.

The wine twitters (see the sidebar) suggested a Southern Rhone or a Priorat blend. An Italian white - Pigato, Vermentino, Arneis, Garganega, and interestingly a Prosecco.

Did I go with any of these ideas? Did I 'ell!

Rose WineWine Tasting Note: Domaine du Tariquet Rosé, 2006, VdP des Cotes de Gascogne, France.

Available from Everywine for £6.65 bottle min purchase 12 bottles. Also listed by Museum Wines [more].

A beautiful colour - grenadine has been suggested but it is the mirror of an old rose just outside my front door. The aroma is light and fresh - the suggestive rose image brings hints of flower petals. The palate has a hint of spritz, a nice medium weight and a good, long fruity finish with an edge of raspberries and a soft tannic finish.

It stood up very well to the powerful garlic soup. The acidity leaving the palate refreshed with the raspberry flavours amply able to force there way through the garlic.

A blend of Merlot, Syrah and Tannat. Alcohol 11.5%. Screw-capped with a great label design.

Scribblings Rating - 90/100

The wine is made by the Grassa family. Maïté Dubuc-Grassa and her brother Yves Grassa make wine from 900 hectares (2224 acres) of vines, making them the largest independent vineyard in France. They produce 7 million bottles of wine.

The Famille Grassa signature style relies on the winemaker capturing the first aromas of the grape, a process which involves meticulous care at every stage. Using state-of-the-art technology and facilities (Tariquet owns the largest pressing room in Europe), Yves Grassa has created a fine, unique and fruity style of wine that bears the Tariquet signature and corresponds perfectly to the taste of todays consumer."

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A Wine For Crispy Lemon Chicken

Alex over at Eating Leeds selected a rather tasty sounding New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to accompany the food for this round of Combinations. It is round ten of the food and wine matching exercise; the food this month being an Oriental style Crispy Lemon Chicken.

Toyed with several possibilities - an off-dry Chenin (to match the vegetable element and counter the sweetness in the sauce) from South Africa or perhaps using the weight of an Alsace Pinot Gris, again often with a little sweetness - but settled on something sparkling. With a Champagne off the list due to budget constraints I plumped for a New World Sparkling.

Balbi Sparkling

Champagne/Sparkling WineWine Tasting Note: Balbi Sparkling Brut, NV, Mendoza, Argentina.
Available from Oddbins for £6.99.
Bubbles, green apples, a creamy touch - a note of mushrooms, a little pear but distinctly underwhelming on its own. Fine as an party aperitif but was hoping for a little more definition and excitement from Argentina. Made from a mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. Alcohol 13%.
Scribblings Rating - 82/100

With the food it was rather submerged by the sweet lemon dipping sauce. Unlike Alex, who made her, I made-do with a packet of Blue Dragon. Which was rather too sweet for the wine; the whole dish in fact left the Balbi as little more than a palate cleanser and for that it worked well. I had hoped, the wine being from the New World, would have had a little residual sugar to counter the sweetness of the sauce, it didn't but met the lemon flavours head-on and even developed a little needed vegetal complexity when tried with the Pak Choi. Not a total disaster by any means but not that elusive 'perfect' match.

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Combinations 10: Pak Choi with Crispy Lemon Chicken

Something simple for this months little food and wine matching exercise - Pak Choi with Crispy Lemon Chicken.

I am sure it is not difficult to rustle up a lemon sauce but this recipe, lifted from the March 2007 issue of Fresh magazine, uses 2 packets of Blue Dragon Lemon Sauce. I am sure it is fine... But the soda water is something you cannot substitute, as I have heard several times this week - both on a TV cookery program and direct from a chef.

It is also Chinese New Year so this steamed pak choi and lemon chicken recipe seemed apt. The difficulty with a wine selection will be with the sauce - how sweet is it? And will the wine clash or marry with the flavours of the pak choi?

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A Wine For Paprika and Chorizo Baked Eggs

Dorio Primitivo Aglianico The Combinations challenge is a little exercise to match a wine with a specific dish. This month it is with a Baked Egg dish; eggs being a particularly tricky ingredient for a wine to cope with. A yolk of an egg has the effect of coating the mouth but with this dish, dominated by the rich, spicy tomato sauce, the effect was diminished. The footnote for the recipe suggested 'a light, smooth Pinot Noir' but I felt the spices would overpower something too light. The choice of wine was also dictated by the forthcoming Great Grape Day on Wine Sediments; Zinfandel/Primitivo.

Red WineWine Tasting Note:Dorio Primitivo Del Salento, 2001, Salento, Italy.
Listed by Oddbins for £6.99.

Intense in colour and restrained in that typical Italian way on the nose - although hints of leather and a floral, light note came through. Superbly delicious on the palate. An array of complex flavours - orange, chocolate, spice and so much more. A sweetness of fruit, a depth and juiciness that bowled us over. Excellent.

The distinctive nose is down to the 15% Aglianico included with the Primitivo. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100


The wine stood up well to the spice-laced dish. The palate-ruining qualities of the eggs were washed away with by the acidity and, while perhaps the hot chili deadened the complexity of flavours just a touch, it worked rather well.


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Combinations 9: Paprika and Chorizo Baked Eggs

For the next wine and food matching exercise an ingredient that is a little tricky to match successfully - eggs.

The mouth-coating properties of egg yolks are what cause the problem. Breakfast-style dishes that involve eggs are often delicious with a sparkling wine or champagne, but here, with the addition of spices, tomatoes and chorizo sausage such a match is not a guaranteed success.

The recipe below is taken from the February issue of Delicious magazine. Another reason for selecting this particular dish is the large quantity of Choirzo I have; not all of it will be used in the Waiter There Is Something In My... Stew event.

Paprika and Choirzo Baked Eggs (serves 4)

  • 1 tbsp Olive Oil

  • 100g chorizo sausage skinned, roughly chopped

  • 100g thick cut Serrano ham, roughly chopped

  • 1 red pepper deseeded and diced

  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped

  • 2 garlic cloves crushed

  • 2 medium-hot green chillies deseeded and finely chopped

  • 1 tsp cumin

  • 2 tsp hot paprika

  • 1x400g cans chopped tomatoes

  • 1/2 tsp Tabasco

  • 1 tbsp chopped Oregano

  • 150ml vegetable or chicken stock

  • 8 medium eggs

  • 100g cheddar, grated (optional)


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Combinations A Wine To Match A Lamb Stew

I have to agree with Alex on the recipe - what exactly is the point of adding Cranberry Sauce to the gravy? Served separately the flavour of the cranberries shone against the succulence of the lamb but when dissolved into the sauce it became lost.

With no tinned green lentils on the shelf at Waitrose, and I'm buggered if I am going to simmer raw one for hours on end, I substituted Puy Lentils. Despite my loathing of parsnips I did indeed put one in the pot and actually had a couple of bites too. Still the devils vegetable though!

The dish was lovely; the lamb juicy and deliciously tasty and, while I should have reduced the gravy a little to aide its concentration, it went marvellously with the soft red I selected.

Red WineWine Tasting Note: Bodegas Ribera de Pelazas Abadengo, 2003, Vinos de La Tierra Arribes del Duero, Spain.
Available from Oddbins for £7.49.
Juan Garcia, obscure, packed with potential for bigger league stuff - especially with juicy, smooth wines like these blazing the trail. Plenty of fruit, wrapped up in an oaky whole. Touches of spiced blackberries and red currants. Alcohol is quite high at 14.5% and noticeable when sipping as the stew bubbled away. But the palate feel is immensely attractive - soft and juicy before a gentle cascade into that fruit medley and a tannic burst into a long blackcurrant finish.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100




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Combinations 8 - Wine With Lamb Stew

Combinations Food and Wine Matching ChallengeWith the wind howling through the trees outside my window, dumping great piles of soggy if gloriously coloured leaves on the doorstep, thoughts of deeply warming food invade. For this months Combinations little wine and food matching challenge, a slow cooked stew seems apt.

The recipe, below, is taken from the November issue of Delicious - lamb shoulder marinaded in garlic and rosemary, cooked for a couple of hours until the succulent meat falls from the bone and served with a gravy spiked with redcurrant sauce. A red wine is the immediate, perhaps obvious, wine choice; something mellow but rich...


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A Wine for Wagamama's Chilli Beef Ramen - Combinations #7

Coincidentally just a couple of days after selecting this dish as the basis for Combinations #7 the opportunity arose to eat at Wagamama; of course I selected this dish to see how it is supposed to be. At the time I ordered a large glass of white to accompany - an Australian off-dry blend of Gewürztraminer and Riesling which went beautifully. Full-bodied, powerful of flavour and the sweetness a superb match to the dish. Sadly I forget the producer, but it was probably an on-trade only bottling anyway.

Back home I hoped this Viognier from Australia would make another brilliant match. It didn't - quite. While the body and the vibrant flavours were of a type to balance out the fiery chilli in the food and match the teriyaki and sweet chilli the wine's inherent dryness let the side down; but only just.

White WineDuncan MacGillivray Beau Sea Viognier, 2005, Adelaide Hills, Australia.
Available from Oddbins for £9.99.
A gorgoues Australian take on Viognier. Lime is the basis but there is so much more - tropical fruits and more than a dollop of fresh, crisp apple flavours. It has had a touch of oak but this just adds a touch of creamy complexity rather than denuding the wine of fruit. A single vineyard wine which is listed on the Oddbins website as Longview Viognier. The grapes were sourced from Longview's vineyard at Macclesfield in the Adelaide Hills. Screw-capped. Alcohol 14%.

It is a lovely wine, perfectly balanced and just right with the dish, rather than a perfect match (a touch more sweetness required).
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

MacGillivray Viognier




Combinations #7 - Wine with Chilli Beef Ramen

I thought a little Oriental influence would be interesting for this round of Combinations. The dish (recipe below) combines plenty of flavours - teriyaki sauce, chilli, lime, chicken stock, coriander and steak; which could be tricky in selecting a decent wine match. Gewürztraminer is so often quoted as being the wine to accompany Oriental foods. Not sure it would work here, especially a dry version - but what else to try? Over to you.



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Food and Wine Matching - more on Combinations #6

The more thought I have given to the latest wine/food matching challenge – a wine to accompany an early autumnal dish of roast pigeon with a grape and walnut sauce – the more I think that a Pinot Gris would be a great match, as an alternative to the oaked Chardonnay I did select.

Generally the weight and slight sweetness evident in Alsace Pinot Gris’ are incredibly food friendly. Their full bodied nature is something I adore. A Pinot Blanc would also have been suitable.

Eating Leeds led the way in experimenting by trying a red wine (Balgownie Pinot Noir 2004, Yarra Valley, Australia); this would have been my initial choice if I hadn’t read the post prior to selecting my wine. The thought process is obvious – game = red wine. Even the few references I read suggested treating Pigeon as Pheasant. Now my little birds came from a quality Butcher (Gabriel Machin in Henley) and have had some ‘hang-time’. Even so the flavour was distinctly lighter than pheasant. The sauce is an important factor in selecting a good match hence something ‘sweeter’ or at least with a little weight and high alcohol that can give the sensation of sweetness.

Benito, not being fortunate enough for supplies of pigeon to reach Memphis used a chicken and selected a rosé - Château Marouïne Côtes de Provence Rosé, 2005, Provence, France - an interesting choice but being dry not my first choice. Benito concludes it as being a little too light for the dish; but a good wine all the same.

Wine With Roast Partridge - Combinations #6

Following EatingLeeds experiments with matching the dish (Roast Partridge with Grapes and Walnuts from Sophie Grigson’s Country Kitchen) with a red wine that didn't quite work, a white was selected for the Combinations dinner at the cottage last night. A red would have been my first choice, seeing as it's game an' all, but partridge turns out to be a relatively light meat more suited to a white wine. The slight sweetness to the sauce (Madeira with grapes and walnuts) points towards a fuller, richer wine while the slight smokiness imparted by the bacon (organic smoked streaky) would be flattered with an edge of oak influence. While oaky New World Chardonnay's are not my first choice for drinking in this case the match was superb.

Wine Tasting Note:Calera Chardonnay, 2000, Central Coast, California.
Currently on offer at Waitrose down £3 to £7.99.
Indeed there is a oak influence to the wine evident on both the nose and the palate but it is tempered with a mass of rich, ripe tropical fruit. Creamy, rounded, a touch of nuttiness and of peaches. The wine has a little bottle age to its benefit too. Alcohol 14%.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100

[As the wine is not listed online I am assuming it is a parcel brought by Waitrose for their current promotion.]

roastPartridge.jpg


Combinations 6: Wine for Roast Partridge with Grapes and Walnuts.

The food and wine matching exercise reaches round 6. To recap the recipes featured on Combinations have been:
  1. An Austrian Dessert
  2. Baked Mackerel with Rhubarb Sauce
  3. Flatbreads with Spiced Chicken, Pistachios and Green Peppers hosted by Eating Leeds
  4. Fresh Herbs hosted by Beau of Basic Juice
  5. Southern Style Lamb Chicken hosted by Benito

For this round, as we slip into Autumn, something seasonal: Roast Partridge with Grapes and Walnuts. This is From Sophie Grigson’s Country Kitchen. I am hoping that some form of game bird are available locally where you live, any could be substituted if partridge cannot be found, and at a pinch I guess chicken could be used although the intensity of flavour will not match that of a ‘proper’ game bird.

Matching Game with Wine

Serving feathered game (partridge, quail, pigeon, grouse, guinea fowl, pheasant) is a great excuse for opening the best possible wines. Older vintages from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Rioja are superb accompaniments while the richer, fruitier wines from the New World should appeal to fans of the styles too. Depending on how strong you make the sauce you could also consider something spicy from the Rhône or, by taking the grapes and the walnuts as the starting point, a good white wine might be an option – a top Italian white to bring out the nut flavours perhaps or an Alsace Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc with enough weight, (maybe even a touch of sweetness to match the grapes), to balance the richness of the meat. As the advert says – the possibilities are endless. .

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An Australian Shiraz and Lamb - Combinations 5.

The food was delicious. Not that I expected otherwise but the choicest slabs of finely marbled lamb, grilled until the outer edge was deeply crispy, with a mint infused honey and mustard sauce spooned over was mouthwateringly good... Sadly the wine didn't quiet match.

Combinations: Southern Dish Ingredients


Benito selected the recipe for this months Combinations; a truly Southern-inspired dish with mint-infused bourbon forming the basis of the sauce. Expecting some sweetness to the dish the wine I hoped would have a corresponding edge of sweet berry fruit to match. But in this particular bottle the tannins were too forceful, the wine as a whole a little too dry. I may have over done the Dijon in the sauce slightly but this flavour jarred slightly with the wine too.

Wine Tasting Note: Ravenswood Lane Off The Leash Red Max, 2005, Adelaide Hills, Australia.
Oddbins £9.99
The splash of Viognier in this amounts to just 6%, the remainder is Shiraz. Peppery, berry fruit with a dry, tannin-led finish. Flavours of raspberry and cherry snuggle around the palate. Medium bodied. Alcohol 14.5%. Without the sauce the wine was a great match with the lamb; to match the dish a little more richness, a touch of sweeter fruit and a softer palate would have helped.
Scribblings Rating - 84/100

Combinations #5: Combinations Goes South

We move to Memphis, Tennessee for some real Southern cooking for the fifth round of Combinations. Benito, our host this month, has selected a superb sounding dish imparting the real flavours of his home city - Grilled Mint Julep Lamb Chops with Slow Cooked Green Beans. The lamb is coated in a mint-infused bourbon before cooking while the beans (French green beans) are cooked with a ham hock (or a substitute as Benito details).

While this dish shouldn't cause too many problems with a wine match, which is the idea behind Combinations, you might want to move beyond the usual Bordeaux red match (a classic with lamb) to take into account those Bourbon flavours...

If you are planning to join in, entries should be posted on your blog by the 24th.

Combinations: Prawns and Fresh Herb Dip


Araldica Madonnia Gavi
There is nothing more vibrant than fresh mint; coupled with a little parsley, a little olive oil, lemon juice and zest and a splash of white vinegar it adds so much piquance to a simple dish that you would think it took hours to prepare. Summer personified. Beau is hosting this months little Combinations wine and food matching event. He has selected, not another snazzy shirt, but a bunch of herbs as the basis of this months pick-your-own recipe.

Is there anywhere in the northern hemisphere that is not bloody hot at the moment? It is humid in South Oxfordshire, barbecues are out, the wine is flowing freely to mellow the heat-frayed nerves, and, at Scribblings Towers, the prawns are skewered and thrown on the griddle pan, 'cause we don't have a barbecue. Combining a handful of mint and fresh parsley (plus olive oil, lemon juice and zest and a balancing slug of white wine vinegar) as a dip for a few prawns is about as summery as you can get - fresh, vibrant and punchy. It needs a wine to match. The Gavi, selected as the sauce was inspired by Carluccio's Italian Crayfish in A Green Sauce (from the August issue of Olive), was as crisp and lemony as you could wish. Coupled with a mineral finish and crisp acidity you would have thought it would have countered the oil, lemon and wine vinegar in the dip, but it lacked body and ended as little more than a foil for the food. Not a bad thing if you are coming from the food angle but for a wino a little disappointing.

Wine Tasting Note: Araldica Madonnina Gavi, 2005, Gavi, Italy.
Waitrose £6.99.
Cortesse is the grape in Gavi, and to me is always slightly overpriced and under flavoured. This is nice enough - mineraly, citrus and lemony and certianly clean flavoured but lacks a little weight and depth. A celebrated 'fish' wine is Gavi, perhaps the punchy herb flavours were too much for this slightly bland rendition.
Scribblings Rating - 82/100

What is it with Italian white wines? Why are they so unexciting?More photographs on Flickr.


Prawns and Herb Dip


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Combinations 4: Combos Goes Green

Basic Juice is hosting round 4 of Combinations. This is a simple event taking a specified recipe, replicating it, and finding a matching wine. Beau has twisted it slightly by offering a list of herbs, asks that three are used in a recipe. and then find a wine to accompany. This 'twisted' Combinations offers about as wide a field as you could hope for in terms of both the food and the accompanying wine. Should you go a Sauvignon Blanc route to pick out the herbs? Or maybe you fancy a Loire red with a herb crusted leg of lamb? Maybe cream is involved, in which case an unoaked Chardonnay or a Pinot Blanc might fit the bill. The possibilities are many. Entries should be completed by the 30th July.

Combinations 3: Flatbreads with Spiced Chicken, Pistachios and Roasted Peppers.

Begun as a little exercise between myself and Beau at Basic Juice, Combinations, was designed to generate interesting content for our respective blogs. Not that Beau has joined in yet as he has been too busy slumming it around Austria (looking for fancy shirts no doubt). But it is great that a couple of other bloggers have joined in with the wine and food matching challenge - especially given the reluctance of most food bloggers to venture into the world of wine and food pairings.

This month Eating Leeds has selected a very American recipe that includes za'atar, sumac and Aleppo pepper - none of which I could find locally! Improvisation required. A hasty attempt at blending a thyme heavy za'atar (sesame seeds, thyme, oregano) mashed with salt and olive oil before mixing with the chicken and other ingredients. Eating Leeds suggested the addition of chili powder in place of the cayenne for a little spiciness to an otherwise under-flavoured mix. The mix is slathered on a tortilla before baking and sampling with the wine...

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Combinations #3: The wine and food challenge.

The Combinations baton passes to Eating Leeds this month - they have selected Flatbreads with Spiced Chicken, Pistachios and Roasted Peppers as the dish for which we have to find a suitable wine to accompany. Full cooking instructions are supplied... but what to pick as a wine? Do we go for a red to counter the spice or a white to pick up the nutty flavour from the pistachios? Something neutral just to wash it all down or a something packed with flavour to bring out more complex flavours?

Combinations: Matching an Austrian Dessert with Wine.

It would seem I had a little more success with the semolina dumplings than Eating Leeds. Mine held up well, still a little lumpy perhaps, but fabulously tasty. The recipe is Griseknödel mit Grünen Paradeisern (Semolina Dumplings with Green Tomato Compôte), the idea of Combinations is to match a wine with the dish.

The trouble I had in finding the green tomatoes was, in the end, worth the expense and hassle. To be honest I was nervous in including them in the dish but they supplied a glorious depth and spiciness to the compôte but still managed to stay in balance with the apple and citrus flavours. The tartness and the fresh flavours of the fruit (I used raspberries in the end), the sour cream and the nuts, all worked so well together both in layers of flavour and in textures. I was well chuffed.


Oremus and the dumplings


To accompany a reasonably priced Austrian sticky proved elusive; instead I plumped for a Hungarian Tokaji (they are after-all neighbouring). The wine is too young, with the acidity still a little unintegrated. The Botrytis edge though matched well with the deep, complex flavours of the compote and the sweetness level matched beautifully.

Wine Tasting Note: Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest, 2002, Tokaji, Hungary.
Around £10 half bottle.
A wonderful deep golden colour and a great nose too. Deep and quite intense with that distinctive botrytis edge melding into a citrus, honeyed whole. The palate is similar with the honey flavours bursting through on the finish. Only the slightly aggressive acidity - which runs like a Samurai blade through the palate from start to finish - just a little too harsh at the moment. With the food though you hardly notice. The apparent level of sweetness drops with the food too. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

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Combinations 2: Wine to accompany an Austrian dessert.

Beau, the fancy shirted chap behind Basic Juice, is off to Austria; and by heck don't he want everyone to know about it! Discovering an oldish book that covers Austrian wine and the countries cuisine a fun continuation of his Austrian-theme, I concluded, would make an interesting point for Combinations 2.

The recipe, detailed below, is for a dessert that interestingly utilises green tomatoes (just hope I can find some here in the UK). So no apfelstrudel for us, nothing so easy, instead Griseknödel mit Grünen Paradeisern (Semolina Dumplings with Green Tomato Compôte). Austria has a superb reputation for its sweet wines; Beau has sampled some recently and an Austrian tasting I went to last year yielded a few; but perhaps there are other wines, from other countries, that you would prefer?

Entries should be in by the 24th of the month. Background to Combinations can be read here.

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Combinations: Matching Baked Mackerel With Wine.

Defying its simplicity, the recipe for Baked Mackerel served with a Rhubarb sauce or compote, produces a delicious main course. Rhubarb is now in season, mackerel plentiful and cheap (at least here in the UK) coupled with the use of home grown cider in the sauce and served with the first crop of Jersey Royal potatoes the combination is local and seasonal.

In retrospect it was probably not the best choice of dish to kick off Combinations - my little idea to examine food and wine matching. I didn't consider that sourcing the ingredients would be next to impossible in San Francisco or Ohio. Fine in Edinburgh and Henley but not elsewhere. Benito substituted trout for the mackerel and picked a Chardonnay-Sauvignon-Semillon blend as the wine accompaniment. "It matched well with the fish--the forward fruit and balanced acidity provided a counter to the sometimes fatty fish, and yet it complemented the sweet rhubarb sauce going along."

After the initial announcement I tried the dish with a Greek white. An unusual grape variety, a lowly price and a hand scrawled shelf-barker proclaiming, as they so often do, as 'great with fish'. It wasn't. Last night, re-trying the recipe with a different wine choice was much more successful; a Sauvignon Blanc but from Australia rather than my usual choice of New Zealand.

Rhubarb and Mackerel


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Combinations 1: Wine to Accompany Mackerel.

For the opening round of Combinations the Wine and Food Matching Challenge I have selected a recipe that appeared in last weekends Times - Baked Mackerel with Rhubarb Sauce. Hopefully those who rise to the challenge of finding a wine to accompany will have no problems in locating fresh Mackerel and Rhubarb.

The recipe is detailed below and is also viewable online at the Times website. In selecting a wine for this dish consider that mackerel is quite an oily fish while the sauce is, in comparison, quite sharp. The deadline for entries is the 24th of the month. See a previous post for the full background to the challenge.

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Wine and Food Matching: Combinations.

Food and wine matching - taken to ridiculous levels of intricacy by some, ignored by the majority. As I have just written on Wine Sediments to me it is an integral part of a true gastronome but I can't recall many food bloggers posts that offer suggestions for their creations.

You may start with the wine and select a dish to accompany or take the other route and begin with the food and select a wine that emphasises a certain aspect of the flavour or enhances the dishes regionality. Alternatively you could just bung any old crap in a glass from that 'bottle with a nice label' and hope it works. It probably won't.

A new blog-event is called for, one where a dish be it nibbles, starter, mains or dessert, from the humblest late night snack to dinner party signature dishes, is replicated and a wine selected to accompany.

Why was that particular style/grape/region selected? Was the wine or the food enhanced in any way? Or did the wine totally over-power the delicate flavours? These are the questions that will need answering in each participants post with the overall aim being to assist those whose wine knowledge is limited to making informed decisions on matching food and wine.

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