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It would seem I had a little more success with the semolina dumplings than Eating Leeds. Mine held up well, still a little lumpy perhaps, but fabulously tasty. The recipe is Griseknödel mit Grünen Paradeisern (Semolina Dumplings with Green Tomato Compôte), the idea of Combinations is to match a wine with the dish.

The trouble I had in finding the green tomatoes was, in the end, worth the expense and hassle. To be honest I was nervous in including them in the dish but they supplied a glorious depth and spiciness to the compôte but still managed to stay in balance with the apple and citrus flavours. The tartness and the fresh flavours of the fruit (I used raspberries in the end), the sour cream and the nuts, all worked so well together both in layers of flavour and in textures. I was well chuffed.

Oremus and the dumplings

To accompany a reasonably priced Austrian sticky proved elusive; instead I plumped for a Hungarian Tokaji (they are after-all neighbouring). The wine is too young, with the acidity still a little unintegrated. The Botrytis edge though matched well with the deep, complex flavours of the compote and the sweetness level matched beautifully.

Wine Tasting Note: Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest, 2002, Tokaji, Hungary.
Around £10 half bottle.
A wonderful deep golden colour and a great nose too. Deep and quite intense with that distinctive botrytis edge melding into a citrus, honeyed whole. The palate is similar with the honey flavours bursting through on the finish. Only the slightly aggressive acidity – which runs like a Samurai blade through the palate from start to finish – just a little too harsh at the moment. With the food though you hardly notice. The apparent level of sweetness drops with the food too. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating – 90/100

Oremus Tokaji

2 Comments »

  1. tejal says:

    ooh, I bet some sweet and sour tomatillos would make a fantastic and cheap replacement for green tomatoes in a compote…Can you get them in the UK?

  2. Andrew says:

    No, well yes but its really difficult – I had to get a huge catering tin from a London restaurant. Details are on slashfood…
    http://www.slashfood.com/2006/05/23/what-to-do-with-a-mass-of-green-tomatoes/

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