Is there anywhere in the northern hemisphere that is not bloody hot at the moment? It is humid in South Oxfordshire, barbecues are out, the wine is flowing freely to mellow the heat-frayed nerves, and, at Scribblings Towers, the prawns are skewered and thrown on the griddle pan, ’cause we don’t have a barbecue. Combining a handful of mint and fresh parsley (plus olive oil, lemon juice and zest and a balancing slug of white wine vinegar) as a dip for a few prawns is about as summery as you can get – fresh, vibrant and punchy. It needs a wine to match. The Gavi, selected as the sauce was inspired by Carluccio’s Italian Crayfish in A Green Sauce (from the August issue of Olive), was as crisp and lemony as you could wish. Coupled with a mineral finish and crisp acidity you would have thought it would have countered the oil, lemon and wine vinegar in the dip, but it lacked body and ended as little more than a foil for the food. Not a bad thing if you are coming from the food angle but for a wino a little disappointing.
Wine Tasting Note: Araldica Madonnina Gavi, 2005, Gavi, Italy.
Cortesse is the grape in Gavi, and to me is always slightly overpriced and under flavoured. This is nice enough – mineraly, citrus and lemony and certianly clean flavoured but lacks a little weight and depth. A celebrated ‘fish’ wine is Gavi, perhaps the punchy herb flavours were too much for this slightly bland rendition.
Scribblings Rating – 82/100
Carluccio’s Green Sauce
Put the ingredients in a mortar and pound together, gradually adding the oil to make a textured sauce.
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