December 9, 2013

Domaine Savagny Cotes du Jura Tradition

By In Food and Wine
A little box of wines was delivered the other week; inside a mix of red and white wine from across France. Also in the box a booklet highlighting “A selection of 12 wines from Les Grands Chasis de France”. Shame I didn’t receive the full selection – listed is a Cremant from Alsace and a Colmar Pinot Gris from Alsace that I would have loved to have sampled. Regardless, each wine received a little write-up and a suggestion of various foods to accompany.

The first I broached was a Cotes du Jura white… Domaine Savagny Cotes du Jura Tradition, NV.

“This wine is produced by a young (20 years old) artisan producer running to 12 hectares…. Savagin, which lends the domaine its name, is a grape variety most famously harnessed for production of the mightily age-worthy Vin Jaune. Crafted as a wine for the table, however, this primrose coloured wine bears a tantalising blend of aromas ranging from orange blossom to toasted almonds, followed by a fruit-filled palate. Best served chilled (10C) and served in a sherry-like copita”

Its not an easy wine to glug, taut, acidic and, indeed, somewhat sherry-like. But it was the food matches that caught my eye

“The complex, multi-vintage Savagny has sufficient bite to work with white meats with savoury sauces. Try it with vitello tonnato, or bollito misto (boiled meats), pork scratchings (dipped in taramasalata); or even salty, crumbly cheeses like Parmesan or aged Manchego”

Never in a hundred years would I think of trying this, or any other wine come to that, with pork scratchings dipped in taramasalata. So that is exactly what I did. Wine worked absolutely fine, very much like a sherry in front of the saltiness of the scratchings. Sadly though the flavour of the dip, a Waitrose own, was rather subsumed by the crunchy pork. Perhaps a more forcefully flavoured dip would have proved more successful. I did enjoy the scratchings though!

Domaine Savagny, Cotes du Jura Tradition

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  1. Wink Lorch December 9, 2013

    Thanks for sharing this, Andrew – it’s good to know what Grands Chais get up to in promoting their Jura outpost La Maison du Vigneron. Domaine de Savagny is owned by this large (for Jura) négociant, but is hardly artisinal as the wines are made and matured at the large négociant premises!

    Also the wine you tasted was undoubtedly a Chardonnay-Savagnin blend, most likely with at least 50% Chardonnay, probably matured oxidatively, blended with Savagnin that would have been originally destined for Vin Jaune but pulled out early (normal practice there).
    What is so odd is that they suggest serving chilled in a copita! It would be much better served in a decent sized glass and at 13-15°C as they would do in the region.

    Fabulously weird idea of a food mix. Not sure I want to try it, but it’s true that this sort of wine is supremely versatile with food.

    • Andrew Barrow December 10, 2013

      Thanks for the extra details Wink although I’ve checked the booklet and there is no mention of Chardonnay in the wine…

      I can see why the nudge towards the sherry angle – the style of the wine is rather taut and that oxidative edge certainly nods towards sherry. I rather enjoyed it with the pork scratchings!


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