Isnt it amazing that a scrap of earth with no discernable farming potential can, when a vine or two are stubbed into the unforgiving soil, produce an alcoholic drink that replicates that land so precisely.

It happens all over of course – from the abandoned scrub land of Julia Kempers estate in the wilds of Portugal to the steep south facing slopes of the Corbières Massif in the Pyrénées Oritentales region of France. Francois Lurton brought the 24 hectare Mas Janeil estate from the retiring owner two years ago. The last remaining old white grape vines – Macabeu and Grenache Blanc – grow in a hollow, which goes some way to protect the 40 year old bush vines from the harsh, dry windy climate. The hollow lies near the Ouille brook, hence the name of this little plot of vines: le Traou de l’Ouille.

The 2009 is the first release. Lurton has blended 60% Macabeu with 40% Grenache Blanc and left the wine in large 600 litre barrels (demi-muids) with plenty of lees stirring to add complexity and richness. The aim is to produce a wine with good aging potential. I like it now!

Lurton Mas Janeil le Traou de l’Ouille, 2009, Cotes du Roussillon, France
[Adegga / Snooth] Loved the orange pith opening, the lime leaf flavours and minerality of the palate and soft but lingering finish. Hints of tropical fruits – mango/guava – add to the complexity and evolve into something more nutty, more vanilla and a hint of toast. Alcohol 14%.

Made a fine match to a dish of Chicken Wrapped in Parma Ham served with a Pizzaiola Sauce.