Matching Chapel Down Wines With Asparagus

Snooth Wine Search:

The White Swan, Fetter Lane, London, not exactly my local but when invited by Cooksister for a Friday night out complete with English bubbly and food, who could resist! The dinner, a celebration of English wines and English asparagus, offered five courses with five wines for a bargain £46 a head. Not insubstantial portions or measly tasting samples of the wines either.

A quick run through of the wines and the food matches. Opening with Charred Norfolk Asparagus, Truffled Ricotta and Watercress - a sublime match with the Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut NV [Adegga / Snooth]. The truffle dimension work gorgeously with the wine, opening out the complexity and adding much to the crisp, apple-led, pure flavours. The Vintage Reserve is a mix of Reichensteiner, Rivaner and Pinot Noir.

The second pairing saw Roast Fillet of plaice, sprue asparagus, samphire and lemon vinaigrette matched with Chapel Down English Rosé 2009 [Adegga / Snooth]. Another melange of obscure grapes here - Schönburger , Rondo, Regent, Dornfelder and Pinot Noir producing a dry rosé with a vibrancy that runs from the colour through to the closing line of the palate. Fresh, summery, cherry edged flavours and an edge of savouriness. Fuller than a Provance rosé and a stellar match with the fish and the delicate sprue asparagus. Lightish in alcohol too at 11.5% making an ideal lunchtime/picnic wine.

Then a red - the Chapel Down Trinity 2009 [Adegga / Snooth] (a mix of Rondo, Pinot Noir and a version of PN, Pinot Noir Precoce) was served with a succulent Rump of Herdwick Lamb, Jersey Royals and Minted Lincolnshire Asparagus. High acidity in the wine - understandable as England is a cool climate - cut through the fat of the lamb beautifully. In conversation notes of coffee, chocolate, pepper, spice and bramble were banded about. A surprising depth of colour too.

A slice of cheese next Tymsboro with white asparagus with rhubarb chutney and buck wheat biscuits. The cheese was nice with the Chapel Down Bacchus Reserve 2009 [Adegga / Snooth] although the sweetness of the chutney clashed somewhat. The wine itself has the most gorgeous aroma; think English hedgerow with elderflower predominating and a distinct edge of exotic passion fruit. Wonderful. A full palate with a similar flavour to the aroma. The acidity is high but a fine alternative to Sauvignon Blanc.

Finally, Poached English Strawberries, Muscat and Strawberry Jelly, Honey and Thyme Ice-cream. Not a great match with the delicate and dry Chapel Down Brut Rosé NV [Adegga / Snooth] jarring with the sweetness of the dessert. Individually superb however. The evening was worth attending just for the ice-cream! Stunning.

Ever heard that asparagus is a tricky thing to match with wine? That the flavour dissipates into something metallic or sulphurous and unpleasant? Poppycock. Avoid wines with heavy tannins or lashings of oak - all the wines here are unoaked - add bubbles too for a little decadence.

Chapel Down can be followed on Twitter with the wines purchased online from the English Wine Group website.

I do think some of the 'charms' of the White Swan were lost on me. Mirrored ceilings have their place I guess. Somewhere. Please forgive the poor quality photos, slightly cramped conditions and working by candle light are not the best of environs...