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Hugh Johnson, one of the UK's top wine experts has "declared war" on the fashion for ever-greater alcohol content in our favourite liquid, branding the new super-strength vintages as "boring" and without "useful purpose".
The Australian
"Wines that 20 years ago had 12 or 12.5 degrees of alcohol may now pack a punch at 14.5 or 15 degrees or even more; balance disappears, and drinkability is thought wimpish," he writes. "Like human bodies packed with steroid-driven muscle, these wines do not fulfil any useful purpose; they are merely made to win competitions ... Mostly what excess alcohol does is muddy the flavours and blur the aromas, so you lose definition and focus and complexity."
The Australian
"Wines that 20 years ago had 12 or 12.5 degrees of alcohol may now pack a punch at 14.5 or 15 degrees or even more; balance disappears, and drinkability is thought wimpish," he writes. "Like human bodies packed with steroid-driven muscle, these wines do not fulfil any useful purpose; they are merely made to win competitions ... Mostly what excess alcohol does is muddy the flavours and blur the aromas, so you lose definition and focus and complexity."
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