
The Australian
“Wines that 20 years ago had 12 or 12.5 degrees of alcohol may now pack a punch at 14.5 or 15 degrees or even more; balance disappears, and drinkability is thought wimpish,” he writes. “Like human bodies packed with steroid-driven muscle, these wines do not fulfil any useful purpose; they are merely made to win competitions … Mostly what excess alcohol does is muddy the flavours and blur the aromas, so you lose definition and focus and complexity.”
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