A Really Secret Tasting
ARSE of course stands for Andrew's Really Secret Event, a tight gathering of wine and food bloggers and tweeters, rolling into a tapas bar near Kings Cross before heading off on the Piccadilly Line to Green Park.
The tasting venue itself was the Naval Club in Mayfair. I should take a moment to thank the Club hugely for letting us utilise their grandiose bar on a Sunday afternoon.
We were most fortunate to have Riccardo Tomadin in town to showcase a 'new to the UK' range of Prosecco's. The easy drinking Riccardo Prosecco Brut, the finely bubbled, creamy Riccardo Prosecco Extra Dry and the superb Riccardo Prosecco Cartizze. The latters 28g of sugar appearing little sweeter than the Extra Dry's 18g (per litre) making for a fine rendition of the pinnacle of Prosecco production.
When you ask a disparate group to bring along a bottle of something interesting you can be sure of an equally diverse and unique offering. This motley bunch didn't disappoint. We kicked off with a strident Vin Jaune, dividing all into a large 'dislike' group and a few brave-palated 'likers'. A crisp, lip-tingling Manzanilla sherry, limited production, hardly seen, followed before we slid into the white wines. A Croatian Chardonnay anyone? Distinctive, lightly oaked, delicious. A South African Sauvignon Blanc offering its own take on pungency, un-ripened strawberries and gooseberries all with a refreshing zing. And then quickly into the reds...
Those kind fellows at Bibendum had sent over two reds for us to sample - a full bodied Mexican wine, a first encounter for many at the tasting of Mexican vino and a Cotes du Roussillon Villages. The slightly baked, gravelly tannins of the Mexican, complete with vibrant, delicious fruit is a surprise on so many levels not least is the medley of grapes: Petite Syrah, Cabernet Sauvingon, Barbera and Zinfandel. The Roussillon was equally praised for its balance and ripe flavoursm and dark, brooding fruit. Both highly recommended.
A third red, from Ribera del Duero, more than managed to compete with these two blockbusters with its Spanish credentials rising to the fore. A superb Tempranillo with hints of sweet spice and deep black fruits. A excellant addition to the tasting!
To conclude something 'really interesting'. A red dessert wine from Italy, unavailable in the UK. More rosé in colour and with a lightness of sweetness that had us thinking of dark chocolate or a bowl of raspberries as an accompaniment.
Perhaps those acronym nay-sayers were miffed because they weren't invited? Those that did make it had a ball. How could they not with such a superb, interesting, range of wines!?
A full list of the wines is below complete with links were available. The photo above shows the participants. From left to right we have Riccardo Tomadin, Tara O'Leary [whose report on the tasting is on her Wine Passionista blog), Niamh, Jeanne, Douglas Blyde, Sara Belizaire-Butler, Rupert Taylor and Louis Villard. Thanks all for making the day such fun and playing along with my ARSE.
Tasting a Falanghina at the London International Wine Fair
The wines were made by Gerardo Vernazzaro, an Italian from Naples. The wines mostly made from Falanghina, a white variety that I thought delicious and as charming as Gerardo himself. And how do I know he is charming? I've met him!
As myself, CookSister and The Wine Sleuth, scurried around the London International Wine Fair, I spied the distinctively packaged wines on a stand... and there he was Gerardo Vernazzaro himself. He took us through his range, several listed by Naked Wines. A the conclusion Denise the Wine Sleuth took a little video, cooksister holding the camera. I hate to steel her thunder (she does after all still owe me a tenner) but while they were videoing, I too recorded the encounter on my new camera. The video is totally unedited (hey, I was amazed the video came out at all!) but should work.
The wine they are tasting is the Falaghina Strione 2007 listed by Naked Wines (the only UK stockist) for £11.99.

Bibendum's World Cup Of Wine
Surprisingly I even recognise the parallels present in the results from Bibendums World Cup of Wine. Having missed the initial play offs I was keen to attend the semi-finals. Each team had two reds and two wines compared against similar bottles from the opposing team. A strident showing from Australia was pitted against a strong South African line up and on the other table the French, fielding a couple of classic styles, was lined up against Italy and being Italy these were rather idiosyncratic wines.
The wines were duly sampled and compared. Quite some discussion resulted. Was this Aussie Chard just a little too oaky? Did the length of the South African Chenin really pull it ahead? The discussions and re-tastings took the place of post match discussions and video replays of near misses and crowd pleasing action. There was a similar amount of spitting too.
Perhaps surprisingly South Africa fought off the strong Australian line-up, particularly the Chenin Blanc (Graham Beck, The Game Reserve Chenin Blanc, 2009, Robertson) which simply knocked everyone's socks off (well in my group anyway). It was a close run thing between two Pinot Noir's though. Was the sweeter, Aussie-sun lashed fruit of the Marchand & Burch Mount Barrow Pinot Noir, 2008 preferable over the more Burgundian, fungi-tipped, Newton Johnson 2009 Pinot Noir from South Africas Walker Bay? A close run thing but price played a part too and pushed South Africa into the lead and winning the match.
A different story over at France v Italy. Were the French a little too complacent and relieing too much on tradition and terroir to see off the Italians stylish showing? The result was a complete trouncing of France and a mammoth victory for Italy. In play two Italian wines really shone and come with a 'must buy' ticket.
On the red bench the Nicolis Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 is a hard sell apparently (why when it is such a delicious wine?) Deep, rich, wonderfully rich, with power and concentration but at the same time offering pure drinakable pleasure. Stylish in that Italian manner with a nod to elegance and food matching potential. Superb. This was the wine I went back too for a post-match slurp.
On the white bench the choice of a Soave, those easily dismissed, lemony, watery wines made fom dull old Trebbiano, was a pleasant surprise. Until the time came to try it. A whiff of weed, citrus pith and a delicious floral edge. Great acidity, lovely weight. A worthy winning player.
I've received comfirmation from Bibendum that June the 2nd is the date set for the Bibendum Wine Cup Finals. Should be a tense and fun game!
Stockist: Bibendum Price: £15 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Prim and proper, pearl twirling, perfumed aura but note that sexy glint in her eye. Alcohol 13%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 94/100 [ out of 5]
Stockist: Bibendum Price: £15.76 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Suited, booted tussled haired Italian, country roots, city style. Come to mamma.Alcohol 13.5%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 96/100 [ out of 5]
Three Wines from A A Badenhorst
"Here he goes again - banging on about how grape blends are soooo much more interesting than single varietals... he'll be raving over some South African wines next, I'll bet"
"Yeh, repeating himself again. You wait he'll pick on some wine-maker with 'character' and imply that being a maverick or whatever can only influence the wine in a good way!"
"Better than moaning about a perfume-doused floosy at a tasting out smelling the wines"
"or a cigar-chomping lard-arse hogging the spittoon"
Three quick recommendations sampled at a trade tasting (SITT 2010 held in Vinopolis last February). They are from the A A Badenhorst stable, a project by Adi Badenhorst one of "the Cape's more colourful characters". After a series of vintages at Rustenberg, Adi set up, with a cousin, this new estate building on vineyards and facilities last used in the 1930's. The old vines are unirrigated, farmed and made into wine with as little intervention as possible. Adi was at the tasting, perched on the end of the Swig table, looking hot and tired but mercifully near the open door for some cool air. A wild hair cut, a slight manic gleam to the eye and as you spied his wines he was round the front of the table pouring and enthusing...
Can't say the labelling does anything for me. Bottle pictures from the estates website (which is in need of an update!).
A A Badenhorst Secateurs White, 2009, Swartland, South Africa.
Swig £8.50 [Adegga / Snooth]
Complexity in droves. Chenin Blanc forming 14% of the blend. "coming together nicely, will age beautifully" said Adi.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
A A Badenhorst Family White, 2007, Swartland, South Africa
Swig £22 [Adegga / Snooth]
Another stunning mix. Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Sauvignon, Chenin all melding into a delicious intensity. An underlying crispness keeps the rich palate in check. Alcohol 15%
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
A A Badenhorst Secateurs Red, 2007, Swartland, South Africa
Swig £9.50 [Adegga / Snooth]
Nine varieties in this one. "Slightly left field". A delicious softness, quite firm and rounded.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 88/100 [ out of 5]
"there you see - a character! And a South African too"
"at least he restricted the listed wines to just three. I do find being presented with a long list of wine tasting notes so, so dull. 'Specially on this blog... "

Speed Tasting Sonoma
The map location I thought important for Sonoma has differing regions - rolling hills here, sea influence here, heavy fog influence due to the San Pablo Bay here or higher temperatures up towards the north. Flowers ranch for example is just a stones throw from the Pacific coast - a dramatic wild location surrounded by virgin forest while Pedroncelli is right up in the wild north where the Dry Creek Valley has temperatures suitable for Zinfandel.
Present were Jim Pedroncelli, Proprietor and Director of Sales and Marketing at Pedroncelli (Adegga / Snooth) with 2007 Mother Clone Zinfandel, Rod Berglund President and Wine Maker at Joseph Swan Vineyards (Adegga / Snooth) with a 2005 Zinfandel and a 2007 Pinot Noir, followed by Jeff Stewart Vice President Winemaker at Buena Vista with a 2007 Chardonnay and 2007 Pinot Noir and finally Tom Hinde, President and CEO of Flowers Winery with their 2008 Chardonnay and 2007 Pinot Noir.
It is so easy to club all Californian, indeed all American, wines into one. But these examples demonstrated individual aspects modified by the location. Most had a story to tell. The Pedroncelli Zinfandel for example uses vines cloned from the original "mother" vines of which one quarter of acre exist to day and fruit from these 100-year-old vines are included in the blend. It is also a tradition to blend in the fruit from another old plot, the Buchignani vineyard, where vines are 40-50 years old.
I adored the two Flowers offerings. Both exhibited a real 'European' textural quality, but still with a ripe new-worldliness. Shame they have a retail price of £50-£60 a piece.
Due to the time constraint I had to email each of them with a couple of questions after the event; surprisingly two even found the time to reply!
From Tom Hind of Flowers Winery [Adegga / Snooth]:
a) In FIVE words what makes your wines stand out from the crowd?
High natural acidity and balance
b) In FIVE words why us Brits should buy your wines?
The most pure example of California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (ummm, I count ten....)
c) Can you give me a quick titbit about your wines/a wine/the winery ie food matching, historical fact, something new etc etc
We are the western-most vineyard in all of California one mile from the Ocean. Our wines go with a wide range of foods due to their high natural acidity lower alcohols, balance and finesse.
From Jeff Stewart of Buena Vista Carneros [Adegga / Snooth]
a) In FIVE words what makes your wines stand out from the crowd?
Elegance, concentration, sense of place
b) In FIVE words why us Brits should buy your wines?
True expression of California quality
c) Can you give me a quick titbit about your wines/a wine/the winery ie food matching, historical fact, something new etc etc
Buena Vista Carneros is the first premium winery in California, founded in 1857. Today we produce special wines from a special place - our Ramal Vineyard Estate in Carneros, Sonoma County.
The tasting was at Goodman's Restaurant, where a meal after - complete with trademark steak - turned into a jolly, impromptu, wine and food matching event. The Zinfandel's tearing into the 8oz strip loin with gusto and the Chardonnay's matching beautifully with slices of Irish Smoked Salmon.

The Best of the Loire: Le Concours des Ligers
"This competition is run by the Union des Oenologues de France and the Loire trade bodies. For the past 15 years, it has rewarded the finest Loire Valley Wines. More than 2,000 wines will be tasted by 300-plus professional tasters."
The gold medal winners were arrayed for sampling at the Palais des Ligers - a little side room to you and me - and while there I conducted a little tweeting. Rather than the 'normal' tasting note I endulged in a little creativity. This was inspired by a chat with Miss Bouquet. We both agreed that using traditional words such as acidity, tannin and so forth are an instant eye-glazing moment for the masses; so I decided to not use them.
As an experiment I'm not too sure that these 'work'; do these notes inspire people to try the wines, more so than the traditional mention of body, length, various flavours? Does the 140 character Twitter restriction mean they are fine for that medium but not suitable for 'proper' notes?
With wine in hand and mouth they made perfect sense at the time...
wine_scribbler: stand by for some unusual-for-spittoon tasting notes direct from the #loiresalon
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon just when the marmite tribe are safely tucked up in the cave berry throwing starts Bois Moze Anjou Villages 05 Cuvee Jean Joseph [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Jean Christophe Misandeau Saumur Champigny 07 a slither of liver served on a dusty roof tile, how do they balance it on a pebble? [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Sabler Verts Saumur Champigny 06 Cuvee des Sages The Francs having a gay moment on the blackfruit beanbag [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Chateau de la Bonneliere Chinon Rouge 08 stirring the berry compote with a chard green twig or three [ Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon roche honneur diamant prestige chinon rouge 08 - stoned on strawberries [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Montgilet Coteaux de l'Aubonce Les 3 Schistes 08 single bee honey; poured over peachy peaches; pineapple et tangerine [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Moncontour Nectar de Montcontour Vouvray Doux 05 a teaspoon of pineapple juice sieved through adonis' golden locks [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Gratien Meyer Saumur Brut Rosé - peachy cheecked milk maid frollacking in the hay barn; mind your head on the metal pale! [Adegga / Snooth]
wine_scribbler: #loiresalon Domaine de la Rouletière Vouvray Moussuex Brut 07 - bread rolling in spring meadowland; the pixie dust! the pixie dust! [Adegga / Snooth]
Pizza Express Leggara Wines
I'm at the pizza Express launch of two Leggara low-alcohol wines; both Italian. The red, a Sangiovese, is from Sicily while the white, a Pinot Bianco, was sourced from up north somewhere (no, not Leeds) but Piedmonte I believe.
Pizza Express gave their wine buyer, Adrian Garforth MW, the brief to create two wines to accompany their low-calorie Leggara pizzas. This range, incidentally, have proved to be hugely popular and are now Pizza Express's 2nd best selling pizzas. Not bad for a low calorie pizza that has a round cut out of the middle filled with a mound of rocket and a tomato!
A small glass of these new wines plus one of the Leggara Pizzas supply just 600 calories. That's 30% fewer calories than a standard pizza; great indeed for a lunch or those watching that midriff more intently than I.
The wines, to repeat, are not aimed at the likes of me (meaning a dedicated wine-person). If you 'go out for a pizza' you don't pick Pizza Express for the wine list (however much Adrian would like you to) but for the quality of the pizza. If you like to drink wine you can - they offer a decent little selection - but for the majority the wine is immaterial, it is simply part of the total ambience.
Pizza Express is right on trend though. Lower alcohol and lower calories are highly placed criteria for many, so offering a crisp white with 9% alcohol or a medium-bodied red with 9.5% alcohol and 1.6 (1.7 for the red) alcohol units per glass is going to resonate with many.
Both wines cost £4.50 for a small glass, £5.90 for a large and £16.55 for a bottle, about standard for a house wine.
The white is fine - picked early to keep the sugar levels down it is of course quite acidic but does have enough weight and flavour in support. The red I thought less of. Little in the way of tannins it lacked a backbone, being too soft and fruity overall for me. It appeared rather sweet too, even with just 4g residual sugar. Interesting, talking to Adrian regarding its development, just by adding 4% Merlot to the Sangiovese "added so much more in terms of flavour". They have made 10,000 cases of the red and 6-7,000 cases of the white.
It's all about "striking the balance" as Adrian put it. A difficult one to pull off I imagine - you have to pick early to lessen the sugars (which turn to alcohol or remain as sweetness) but not so early so as to actually have some flavour and get some colour. There is no de-alcoholising allowed as this harsh process also strips flavour. In addition to keeping the calorie count low you have to watch the price; paying a premium for grapes that are not totally ripe for example. But Pizza Express have pulled it off producing two highly drinkable wines with flavour, but low in alcohol and calories.
There will be a rosé, also made from Sangiovese, currently in development and due for a spring/summer release.
[Flickr hosts a series of photos taken during the wine launch event; you may see me in there making pizza, along with friends Dimas and Natalie. The Wine Sleuth popped in late ;-) ]

Four Reds from the South of France
Last Tuesday saw me padding around in Lords Cricket Ground. We (myself and Densie the Wine Sleuth) hit on a little patch of red wines from the Southern reaches of France, all grouped on the Wine & Dine table. These are described as a "showcase of sophisticated wines for accompanying sit-down meals, which are, typically, served at table with food, thus defining a very different experience" (when compared to the Easy Drinking, informal wines for example). Perhaps this is why I enjoy them so much - their superb food-matching credentials
[More on Adegga / Snooth]
The depth of colour, the superb structure and rounded, deep fruit filled palate immediately attracted. Lovely balance. Herby, liquorice edged flavours. A blend of Syrah (young vines), Grenache and Carignan (very old vines).
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
[More on Adegga / Snooth]
Another Syrah/Grenache/Carignan blend this with the addition of Mouvèdre. The 6th generation of the Montanié family manages the 150 acres estate, one located to the south of Narbonne. This very aromatic wine offers hints of mushroom and woodland undergrowth to the juicy blackcurrant flavours.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
[More on Adegga / Snooth]
A beautiful deep violet colour and a lovely aroma full of blackcurrants and blackberries with a deep inky edge on the finish. Excellent structure and balance.
The Estates Tamarius red and Balmettes white are both stocked by The Winey at £7.99 a bottle; the L'Envie is going to be more expensive.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
[More on Adegga / Snooth]
A wine available in the UK! Look to The Wine Society who list this at £14.40 per bottle. It's another Grenache (55%), Syrah (20%), Carignan (15%) and Mourvèdre (10%) blend with the Carignan plucked from old vines about 60-70 years old. For me the star of the tasting (the other wines from the estate are also rather good). Not much to the nose mind but the palate is rich, concentrated, balanced, rounded with superb flavours. Alcohol 14%. The estate plans to be fully organic by 2012.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 94/100 [ out of 5]
The Wine Society - Brief Notes from a Tasting

While I imagine a fare number of the Wine Society's customers are more than content with the copious listings of Chateau this and that (as the large number of own-label Bordeaux bottelings and the highlighting of a £99 'Everyday Bordeaux' case at this tasting demonstrates) I have to admit to being stunned by a number of really non-traditional wines (and a couple of excellent more modern styled old-school offerings); all new to the Wine Society list and each unique and gorgeous in their individuality.
Stockist: Wine Society Price: £15.50 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A magical blend of principally Chenin Blanc with Marsanne, Roussanne and a touch of Viognier. Creamy edged, full, textural, weighty reminiscent of a Pinot Gris but with more of a crisp finish. Very food friendly. Alcohol 14%
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 94/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £9.50 Wine Society [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Coffee hints on the finish with integrated, complex, spice-led fruit. Can only be a Shiraz-Grenache blend. Full bodied, warm. Alcohol 15%.
Rémy Klein farms just under 100 acres of vineyard north of Tavel. This part of the Gard is well adapted to making fine and elegant syrah-based wines. This is 40% syrah and 60% grenache, all raised in tank. It is full bodied, richly fruity without any heaviness."Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £18.50 Wine Society [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Trousseau is the same as Portugal's Bastardo variety; interesting palate, plenty of tannins, dry finish a delicious intensity, full-flavoured, cherry. Would love to try this with a simple roast chicken as the Wine Society wine list suggests.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £16.00 Wine Society [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Sangiovese as its most supreme. An age since I've had such a perfectly structured, ripe, balanced Chianti coupling a softness with copious velvety fruit. Alcohol 14.5%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £17.95 Wine Society [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Stinkingly good Iberian red; lashings of cedar-tinged fruit, a complexity provided by a little bottle age and a very stylish long lasting, mouth-feel. Alcohol 14%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 94/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £15.50 Wine Society [More on Adegga / Snooth]
An Italian grape variety given the Australia block-busting treatment. Ripe and powerful with flourishes of blackberry, spice and raspberry. Vibrant. Violet hints. Very interesting combination of texture and flavour. Alcohol 14%.
A fantastically mellow and exotic-tasting red made from the Italian Sagrantino grape. Full-bodied and complex with savoury flavours backed by ripe fruit."Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
Founded in 1874, The Wine Society's aim was, and remains, to introduce members to the best of the world's vineyards at a fair price. Holding a share in The Wine Society gives you a lifetime membership with no annual fee and no pressure to buy. The cost of a share is £40.
Many thanks to Ewan and his team for the tasting and texting me the grape details of the Sequillo after the event; most appreciated.
Wines at Bedales Wine Bar, Borough Market
The foodie and tourist heaven of Borough Market is a great place - lively, ram-shackled, and bustling. As least it is on the true market days (Thursday, Friday, Saturday). On a Wednesday morning the vacuous stares of the camera-clutchers show either realisation they have come on the wrong day or bewilderment over the lack of much happening in this 'must see' destination.
Bedales was one of a handful of places open (a couple of fruit and veg people, Monmouth coffee, Brindisa...). I couldn't decide if Bedales shabbiness was by design or accidental; it certainly fits in with the general air of the market, perhaps more so given the general lack of much happening. One good thing about going on an off-market day is the wide choice of seats!
Bedales doubles as a wine shop (with a hefty concentration on Europe and New Zealand - I didn't spot an Aussie or a Chilean wine at all) and is one of three in a chain (the others being in the city). More than one bottle though is graced with a little Bedales Ladybird sticker which, according to the Bedales blog, denotes a biodynamic wine.
An unplanned chat with the wine-buyer/managing director, Arnaud Compas, just 'passing through' gave a little background to the range - "education by trial", "to entice the non-connoisseur with the unusual", "fall in love with the oddities". In the brief chat you figure he greatly prefers wine tasting and befriending the wine-makers over spreadsheets and signing cheques... even if, in his own words, Bedales is "run like a car-boot sales. wine in - wines out".
"Whilst we import much of our produce ourselves, we also maintain an impeccable army of artisan suppliers. We source our charcuterie and artisan cheeses, many of which are unpasteurised, from France's famous 'Rungis Market', the world's largest larder (it in fact covers more land than Monaco). Many of our finest bins come from boutique producers unearthed during globe-trotting research trips. For sapid support, we utilise some of the finest, most dedicated purveyors in the capital including fellow Borough Market traders."
[More: Adegga / Snooth] £12.99
A cool aperitif and cut through the Bedales food platter beautifully. Crisp, nutty, "with a duty, straw-lined barn edge" as Arnaud put it. Pears and a lovely closing edge of almonds to me.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
A superbly drinkable blend of grenache and maccabeu; again the crispness matching the food with a smoke dimension adding interest to both aroma and finish. Interestingly no alcohol indicated on the label.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £21.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A fault? Fizz and rather too much of it too but a vigorous shake and some time open reveals the true extent of this bottles deliciousness. Grenache-Syrah blend with a superb, full, dark berry fruit led palate. Firm tannins and an edge of spice. Alcohol 14.5%. Biodynamic. The score is after the fizz dissipates; but rather an odd bottle to open as an example of the range; most would return it as faulty.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
A few more glasses of wine appeared; but what with the chatting, slathering the excellent duck rillet on to bread, and comparing an 'interesting selection of cheeses' with each new wine as it appeared - and simply just relaxing and soaking up the markets atmosphere - I neglected to write anything down. There was an impeccable Swiss Merlot I believe...
Bedales
5 Bedale Street
Borough Market
London SE1 9AL

Continue reading "Wines at Bedales Wine Bar, Borough Market" »
Artisan & Vine : London's Best Wine Bar
Our private lunch time tasting - just five wines - lasted way into the afternoon. I can think of worse things than being in good company, drinking a personal selection of stunning wines and regaled with stories on each. If the wine doesn't have a 'story' or Kathryn hasn't detected your 'passion' your wine just isn't going to be listed.
"At artisan&vine our objective is to bring your taste buds as close as possible to the fantastic produce of artisans and vineyards. To do this, all of our 120+ wines are either naturally or locally produced. We think you'll taste the difference this proximity to the grapes brings and we are proud to be London's first wine bar to specialise in local and natural wines.With around 20 English wines and liqueurs, we think we could have London's longest English drinks list. With the remainder of our wines and liqueurs being all natural or biodynamic (more than only organic) we have one of the longest and most interesting natural wine lists in the capital too."
No English wines at the tasting, although I noted two from my local vineyard, Brightwell, on the shelf.
Price: £29 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Light and playful but appley, citrussy with some weight. Very fine bubbles with a "hazy, natural appearance". Long lasting yeastiness. Alcohol 11%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £31.10 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A wonderful 100% Chardonnay. Palate has a richness that is quite delicious, barrel fermented, lovely texture, a big wine with elegance and structure. Touch of ripening strawberry to the flavour. Delicious. Alcohol 13%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £35.60 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Unusual in the extreme; a blend of Grenache Blanc and Maccabeu that is so distinctive on the nose that my initial reaction was met with hoots of laughter by those who had already tried it! Extremely 'cider-like', straw, apples, hawthorn, pears. Weighty, Exceptionally long aftertaste. Distinctive and I'm sure will have its detractors but, after initial scepticism, enjoyment ensued to the extent of drinking a glass or two rather than the Pouilly Vinzelles. Alcohol 13.5%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £28.10 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Another controversial bottle, but a huge talking point none-the-less. A blend of white and red varieties Carricante, Inzolia, Catarratto, Nerello Mascalese, Alicante,... 100% natural, no added sulphites; non-filtered. With the aroma evolving with every sip it was clear the wine is different (and doesn't hold up well after a day being open). The volcanic soils that give the grape a foothold on the mountainside also supply individuality - a combination of freshness and a Pinot Noir-like lightness that gives sweet rose-hips and darker, mixed fruit jam, gives way to darker, blacker fruit flavours and a tannic structure. Alcohol 13%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Price: £28.50 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A wine with character - gorgeous generous, black fruits and tobacco. A wine "that refuses to behave in the mouth". A blend of Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre. Alcohol 14%.
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
All prices are 'drink-in' bottle price. All wines are available, cheaper, to 'take-away', there are even plans for a full internet wine shop. Fingers crossed! More photographs of the wine bar are on SpittoonExtra and pictures of some of the wines on flickr. Rob at The Wine Conversation has also written a post on the tasting.
Continue reading "Artisan & Vine : London's Best Wine Bar" »
Brief Notes from a Visit - Beyerskloof
Awards drip from the wines. If you have never encountered a drinkable, enjoyable, Pinotage Beyerskloof is the label to turn to.
If you sit in the open-sided deck restaurant, with the Kanonkop hill in the distance (photo on SpittoonExtra) at your feet lies the 'field' a mixed planting of vines that goes into the companies Bordeaux-style Field Blend.
Their pale, peachy, refreshing, sparkling Pinotage Rosé Brut washed down a plate of superb garlic snails beautifully while a selection of older Pinotage's and various Cape Blends vintages, tasted in the cellar with Beyers Truter himself, were very interesting. The latter come in various mixes - the 2006 Synergy comprises 43% Pinotage, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Shiraz and 7% Merlot compared to the 2001 Synergy being 55% Cabernet, 37% Pinotage, 8% Merlot and 14% 'others'. Basically they are still experimenting with these! I didn't enjoy the older vintage, I have to admit, the reductive edge on the nose dominatated but perhaps I'm just more susceptible to those aromas as my tasting partners enthused.
The Field Blends are certainly worthy of trying. They age beautifully too. The 1995, which my notes contradictorily say is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, had a gorgeous perfume, complex with tobacco-edged age. Little stock remains but it is available on the restaurant wine list. The 2001 was luscious with a vailed smoothness from the addition of Merlot. I didn't catch the blend details but the 2006 has 60% Cabernet Sauvignon coupled with 40% Merlot.
According to our host Pinotage works wonderfully in a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Merlot, however, is not a great working partner. No stainless steel tanks for Pinotage either, rather the grapes at Beyerskloof see open, concrete, fermenters, a little temperature control and manual punching of the cape by hand.
While age worthy it is the younger Pinotage single varietals that impressed during the cellar tasting. With ripe, sweetish upfront fruit, good structure and length they have structure and drinkability with the Beyerskloof Reserve Pinotage being singularly impressive.
English Wine Week : Tasting Five English Wines with Cheese
Especially good - by itself and with the various wines - was the Godminster Vintage Organic Cheddar. Next to it laid a perfect boxed slab of Cranborne Chase Alderwood (unpasteurised semi-soft rind cows milk cheese from Dorset) with the third being Simon Weaver's Kirkham Farm Organic Cotswold Brie. Coupled with a handful of fresh tomatoes and a salad of local mixed leaves (from Down To Earth) all I forgot was to add a handful of basil I was growing on the window sill...
FoodStories: #aeww back at Andrews now, more English wines and cheeeeese! He also has fabulous windows.
Three of the wines were brought from Festival Wines of Chichester. The Brightwell Sparkling was brought from the vineyard after our tour and tasting while the Balfour Sparkling was a free sample.
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Wine and Charcuterie Matching - Brief Notes from a Tasting
We were here for a Circle of Wine Writers Wine and Charcuterie Tasting hosted by Fiona (matchingfoodandwine.com) at the new Terroirs wine bar in William IV Street, London. The Charcuterie comprising a delicately flavoured Jamon de Teruel from Spain, a nicely textural Duck Rillette, Saucisson Sec from the Pyrenees and a garlic and spice Terrine Terroirs.
Rather than the 'usual suspects' to accompany charcuterie (simple rustic French wines) Fiona picked a more eclectic list of bottles to sample, each calling on the intrinsic flavours of the food (smoky, spicy, garlic). The only thing not offered was a sparkling...
A learning experience; just much more enjoyable than my (detested) school days. I did miss the juvenile giggling at the cookery teachers hairy legs encased in green tights mind...
Fiona has posted her own take on the session on Matching Food and Wine.
Brief Notes from a Tasting: Vergelegen, South Africa
It is a wonderful spot for visitors; even if you have only a passing interest in wine - there's the oldest oak tree in Africa (a hollow Old English Oak believed to be 300 years old) and gardens aplenty (rose, herb, camellia, fynbos, hydrangea). The homestead is open to visitors and is full of classical Cape Dutch furniture and there are picnic areas too (although you don't bring your own food but buy pre-packed boxes at the estate) and, for posher-nosh, the Lady Philips Restaurant.
We were there for the wines though. A pouring of the Sauvignon Blanc was served alongside fresh oysters - to general acclaim of my compatriots, but not moi as I 'don't do' oysters. But my 'line fish' in the Lady Philips restaurant, later, was beautifully moist and accompanied the lightly oaked Vergelegen Chardonnay 2008 superbly [picture].
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 88/100 [ out of 5]
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 88/100 [ out of 5]
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
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Brief Notes from a Tasting: Boschendal, Stellenbosch
Lizelle was lovely, fielding my inane questions with gusto and a wry smile. She has been with Boschendal since 2005. At the conclusion of the tasting I asked what she would really like to do, experimentally, outside the day to day work. Two things, she replied. "To make a stickie from Weiser Reisling and to play around with White Grenache" She didn't expound on what she would like to make exactly.
Boschendal have split their wines into 5 distinct ranges; in price order they are:
- The Pavillion Range with a Shiraz/Cabernet, a Chardonnay/Semillon blend and a Shiraz Rosé. The range is named after the Le Pavillion Gazebo and come priced at around £6.49.
- The Favourites Range with the emphasis on easy drinking. Priced at £7.29.
- The 1685 Range with the distinctive bottle shape. The bottle first produced in 1985 to celebrate the 300 years of wine making at the estate and is based on an original 1685 bottle. Priced at £8.99.
Wine Tasting Note: Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay-Pinot Noir, 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa.
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
A mix of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%) resulting in a golden hued, elegant wine packed with red berried fruit flavours, a touch of lees, and gentle oak. Alcohol 13%.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100 [ out of 5]
- The Reserve Range of single varietal wines - higher quality grapes reflected in a slightly higher price of around £10.99.
Wine Tasting Note: Boschendal Sauvingon Blanc Reserve, 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa.
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
The first vintage released in screwcap. Half the Sauvingon is sourced from Boschendal local grapes, the remainder from the Somerset West area. Minerally, limey, lively style. Flinty, citrus and a great mouth-feel.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Wine Tasting Note: Boschendal Grand Reserve, 2005, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Price: £9.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A Bordeaux-style blend heavy on the Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Franc (70%), Malbec (10%), Shiraz (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)), nicely perfumed, with an edge of cassis and raspberry-meatiness.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
Wine Tasting Note: Boschendal Reserve Collection Shiraz, 2004, Stellebosch, South Africa
[More on Adegga / Snooth]
Sourced from low yielding 10 year old vineyard. Full-bodied, Rhone-style - a touch of elegance missed in with the pepper, herb and spice palate. Potential for some aging. Good tannic backbone. Alcohol 14.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [ out of 5]
- The Cecil John Range named after Cecil John Rhodes a major 19th century player in Boschendal's development. Two wines in this 'site specific' range a Sauvignon Blanc (£12.49) and a Shiraz (£15.99), neither, sadly were opened for us to taste.
Check out the Top Five South African Wine Retailer list for stockists. Photos from Boschendal also on flickr.
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Newton Johnson Winery, Walker Bay, South Africa
Newton Johnson pitches itself at the premium end of quality in a boutique type manner. Plenty of wines opened for us to spit, swirl and sniff starting with a comparison of Sauvignon Blancs. As an aside our host, Bevan Newton Johnson highlighted a cultural difference - the South Africans prefer their Sauvignons younger and more acidic than us Brits, a point evident in the Newton Johnson 2008 Sauvignon Blanc - A quite 'green' acidity being evident despite the addition of a little Semillon "to give firmness and a balance for food". A second Sauvingon, also 2008, with a higher ratio of Semillon (25% against 7% in the first) was racey, firm and despite its youth delicious. Only 180 cases were made of this 'yet to be released' wine; when available in 2-3 months time it should retail for around £10 plus.
Two Chardonnay's next. The Newton Johnson 2007 being the most beautiful of wines. Sourced from high altitude vineyards giving cool mornings and evenings results in some magical fruit. A lively citrus streak, minerality, weight, fig-led flavours with a walnut complexity. A touch of oak too. Superb. The 2008 vintage was elegant but tightly-young with a more oaky complexity evident. Nicely creamy mouthfeel.
To the delight of our female companion - Felicity of Fresh Escapes magazine - the next wine was the Newton Johnson Felicité Rosé, 2008. With a full palate and a lovely clean, fresh, palate this 75% Shiraz/25% Sauvignon Blanc blend comes across as a great food wine.
From a vineyard right under the tasting area the 2008 Newton Johnson Pinot Noir offered plenty of complexity and a tight, focused palate. Let down only by its slightly high price (a little under £20). A second Pinot - better value at under £15 - offered a smoky edge, a touch of restraint and a delicious, juicy finish. The difference between the two? The first comes from clay soils, the second from fruit grown in Elgin on quartz plus a cooler climate during the evenings. A great demonstration of terrior differences you could never hope to find for both wines were distinctively different.
Finally a Rhone-style blend that accompanied a 'bit-too-hearty-for-lunch' Bobotie (declared the national dish of South Africa by the United Nations Women's Organisation in 1954) - the Newton Johnson Shiraz Mourvèdre 2006. A delicious savoury edged, spicey wine with a lovely mouthfeel and, bearing in mind my penchant for blends (and Rhone style blends in particular) my favourite wine on display.
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In The Company of Wine People: brief notes from a tasting
Now Arniston Bay may well be one of those ubiquitous brands that clog the wine aisles; but actually the wines are not too bad. Look out for the Reserve bottling of the Sauvignon Blanc (fresh, crisp finish, touches of lychee, soft, upfront sweetness) and those offered in innovative pouches.
Sometime ago I received a sample of an Ariston Bay Chenin-Chardonnay in a pouch and, to my annoyance, neglected to write anything about it. It's the packaging that offers the interesting story, but the wine itself was surprisingly drinkable for a mid-week slurp.
Developed at some cost by the Company of Wine People the pouch is a world first in terms of packaging.
The pouch offers an environmentally friendly solution to wine packaging, creating 80% less environmental impact from cradle to grave than the equivalent volume in glass bottles, 90% less waste and takes up less space in a landfill than two glass bottles. It is also 20 times lighter than a wine bottle and preserves the wine for up to a month once opened.
"We have worked hard to create a packaging solution to redefine the boundaries of sustainability in the wine industry and make people think differently about the cradle to grave lifecycle of wine"
They are available in Chenin/Chardonnay and Pinotage Rosé styles from branches of Tesco, Asda, Waitrose and Morrisons priced at around a tenner for 1.5 litres.
Incidentally the Arniston Bay website offers a little downloadable book detailing recipes for Governer's Trifle, Peri-Peri Chicken Mozambique Style, Tomato and Prawn Bredi, Egg Plant, Date and Cashew Nut Briyani and Chilled Butternut, Orange and Cumin Soup - all designed of course to complement one of their wines.
The Kumkani Range is a step up in price and interest. Kumkani is a word derived from the Xhosa word translated as 'King' - you have to practice the tongue click on word Xhosa; Isabel demonstrated and despite a few half-attempts we all spectacularly failed at replicating. Anyway the Kumkani range comprises single varietals, dual varietals, the Reflections range and award-winning single vineyard wines.
Particularly noteworthy is the stunning Kumkani Sauvignon Blanc Lanner Hill with grapes sourced from a single vineyard - Groenekloof in the Dorking region. A lovely slice of 'green gooseberry' intensity with a mineral, flinty complexity (listed by Majestic £11.99)
Great pleasure and hums of excitement - well you can't say much with a mouthful of wine - greeted the Kumkani VVS 2005. This has stonkingly good complexity and superb balance/intensity coupled with a fascinating aroma from an unusal mix of grapes - Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho. There's a touch of oak in their somewhere too.
"This unique wine is the first white wine blend in South Africa to have Verdelho as a blending component. All the components - 40% Viognier, 40% Verdelho and 20% Sauvignon Blanc - of this wine were fermented separately before blending. The Viognier and Verdelho fermented in 20% first fill, 40% second fill and 40% third fill 300-litre French oak barrels. Kept on fermentation lees for eight months, batonage two times a month. The Sauvignon Blanc component was fermented in stainless steel tanks. No wood treatment on this component, kept on fine lees for eight months."
Our sample was the 2005 vintage, the initial release, so a little age development. Currently the 2007 is available but I'm still waiting details of UK stockists.
The Kumkani Cradle Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, proved to be a damn delicious, serious wine. Hefty tannins, so give it another year or so or bring on the Springbok! Rich and classy. The Kumkani blog suggests pairing with Rump of Beef Cooked Slowly in Red Wine and provides the recipe. As with the equally superb Kumkani Shiraz 2007 I'm lacking details of stockists or prices sadly.
Isabel is a fascinating person; shame we didn't have time to chat longer. Prior to demonstrating her beautiful singing voice (in
Continue reading "In The Company of Wine People: brief notes from a tasting" »
Brief notes from a tasting: Kleine Zalze Estate, Stellenbosch
The wine range is split into four - The Family Reserve Range is at the top "produced from the best hand-picked grapes of selected vineyards. Available in limited quantities and only in certain vintages". Next the Vineyard Selection "Quality grapes from premium vineyards, aged inthe best oak barrels to provide wines with flavour, complexty, structure and cellaring potential" followed by the Cellar Selection (such as the Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc) "These wines are made to be be more accessible and friut driven. They represent good value, to suit our customers' tastes. This range reflects our motto: "We make wine for people to enjoy". The bottom rung is the Foot of Africa range "named after one of our farms situated at africa's southern tip. These wines are produced from selected grapes from various vineyards in the Western Cape".
Full pictures of the meal are over on SpittoonExtra.
Blown away by the Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, around £15. [More: Adegga / Snooth] A combination of green bean herbaceous flavours and minerality (the latter from West Coast fruit apparently) Clean, fresh, green pepper, not too grassy. Ages well according to our host Ross Sleet. Stonkingly good with the meal's starter - Crumbed Goats Cheese with Figs.
First introduction to the Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc [More: Adegga / Snooth]
- 30% of the grapes in this have been influenced by botrytis adding depth and complexity. Totally unwooded.
8,000 case production for the Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc [More: Adegga / Snooth]. Available to the on-trade in the UK. Barrel fermentation creating a different beast than the Cellar Selection Chenin but similar in style with a fruity, delicious, roundness. A little young still, 2008 vintage.
Interesting wine selection for the Seared Scallops, a choice of lightly chilled Pinotage Cellar Selection over a Pinot Noir Vineyard Selection [no links as unsure on vintages]. The balsamic reduction picked up in the Pinotage but the Pinot worked beautifully too being a little lighter in style with softer tannins. Table split between the two - I'd edge toward the Pinot Noir if only for those seductive tannins.
The estate is having an exciting time with Pinotage experimenting with terrior and vine placements.
Salze Shiraz-Mouvèdre-Viognier blend, 2007, Cellar Selection range, [More: Adegga / Snooth]
with a split of varieties at 65% Shiraz, 20% Mouvèdre and 15% Viognier. Delicious in a robust, characterful way. Designed to be drinkable/accessible. Screw-capped and 14.5%. Available from Waitrose in the UK.
Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005. [More: Adegga / Snooth] Lovely concentration, smooth, richly textured, perfectly matching my main course of Springbok. Plentiful tannins but supple and wonderful with the meat. I was so enraptured with the partnership I failed to note any Madeira flavours in the sauce...
Kleine Zalze
Die Boord
Stellenbosch, 7613, South Africa
PHONE: +27 (21) 880-0717
FAX: +27 (21) 880-0716
Great Iberian Wines From Vinoteca
Generally the whites disappointed. There were eight whites available, four each from Spain and Portugal and most were either over priced or just plain unexciting. Or a combination of both. A shame really as several wines from the SITT tasting (Specialist Importers Trade Tasting) the Wednesday prior offered some really exciting whites from Portugal in particular.
Fourteen reds were opened for the crowd. Apart from one (where a lively debate ensued where I thought it lacking but my tasing partners disagreed) my fellow tasters/bloggers (Andrew Chapman and Denise Medrano) were in agreement on the quality. The best being...
Wine Tasting Note: Bodega Castaño Monastrell, 2007, Yecla, Spain.
Price: £6.50 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A crowd pleaser being full, soft, flavoursome with sweet ripe fruit. Deep black-fruits, leather complexity, inky finish. Monastrell is Mourvèdre. Good value.
Wine Tasting Note: Bodegas Acoustic Vinyes Velles, 2006, Montsant, Cataluna, Spain
Price: £14.95 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A little expensive perhaps (the victim of the poor pound!) but a delicious, stylish wine. Montsant is a small region lapping around Priorat (had to look that up on an excellent map available at the tasting) that most seemed unfamiliar with. A super blend of Garnacha and Carinena from 15 - 35 year old vines.
Wine Tasting Note: Telmo Rodriguez Gabo do Xil, 2006, Galicia, Spain.
Price: £8.95 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A producer that all should be familiar with; seldom offering a disappointing wine. This 100% Mencia has an excellent nose, balance and a delicacy and poise that we pinpointed to violets. Ripe strawberries adds to the complexity of flavour.
Wine Tasting Note: A & J-L Gomes Azamor, 2005, Alentejo, Portugal
Price: £7.85 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A blend - which always seems to work better than single varietals from Portugal - of 40% Syrah, 40% Touriga Franca and 20% Merlot. Great fruity aroma, still fresh despite a few years of age. Lovely, soft, plummy palate with good structure and acidity. Some elegance.
Wine Tasting Note: Quinta do Centro Pedra Basta, 2006, Alentejo, Portugal.
Price: £12.50 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A blend of Tridadeira, Aragones, Alicante Bouchet and Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe fruit with savoury touches to the aroma, excellent balanced palate a little sweetness to the fruit. Notes ended with a scrawled 'I like this a lot!'.
Twitter Taste Live at Bibendum's Tasting
Bibendum have grasped the social media by the short and curlies as tasters across the country joined in a large group of novice and more expert wine tasters to twitter over three wines.
I've pinched the video above from documentally - who was highly entertaining host for the event.
Thanks also to The Wine Conversation for organising it all; his thoughts on the event (including the same video) are on his wesite but the basics are 300 tweets in the 45 or so minutes which overtook tweets on Obama for a short time. Next time how about streaming the tweets to a large screen display in the main tasting hall for more exposure?
One issue I discovered was that entering my tasting notes via a mobile is limiting as it is impossible to view direct replies or responed to others questions and tweets, thus limiting the 'conversation'.
The three wines tasted were:
- Delicato Old Vine Zinfandel 2006
- Dinastia Vivanco Crianaza Rioja 2005
- Laurenz V Friendly Gruner Veltliner 2007
An interesting selection that introduced many to Gruner Veltliner for the first time.The Delicato was well received for its easy drinking, rich, quality while the Rioja, with its savoury, tomato quality stood out for many as the star.
Brief Notes from a Jeroboams Tasting
"Although we have an extensive range of the world's finest wines, I am very proud of the amount of outstanding wines we stock under twelve pounds. It was tough work deciding what to leave out as the quality of wine at this price range has come on leaps and bounds in the last 10 years, as standards continue to improve every year. This is great news for an independent wine retailer like Jeroboams as it means we can offer a more varied portfolio and be confident of the quality of the wines."
It was in the depths under Milroy's in Soho that myself and man-about-town Mr Blyde wandered for a wine tasting back in October. I should apologise for the briefer-than-usual tasting notes; the palate was fading somewhat after a morning food and wine tasting across town - and the effects of alcohol shouldn't be ignored either.
Manging to slurp and sniff twenty of the 66 wines open, the following received more than a VG in the margins of the tasting note booklet. [Another Jeroboam's wine that is highly recommended is the Cellar Cal Pla Mas D'En Compte Blanco]
Tesco Drinks Awards Winners
Tesco organises this event every year giving the winners a guaranteed listing in national and regional Tesco stores for a minimum of 12 months.
The Tesco Drink Awards are designed to champion regionality and small producers, giving them a route to market and wider exposure to the UK consumer.
Now I think the bottle pictured is Flying Dog Classic Pale Ale brewed by the Flying Dog Brewery in Maryland, America. As you can read in the press release below this won the Best Bitter and Ale category - which must have been the table I slurped around - so it would appear my fellow judges were as impressed as I was!
Coming to a Tesco near you then, Flying Dog Classic Pale Ale.
Wine and Food Matching - Ideas From A Recent Tasting
Of course wine tastings offering dozens if not hundreds of wines are hard enough, and expensive to mount, operations without worrying about food samples. Back in October though the wonderful people at Fells hosted a tasting with various wines matched with food.
"This is a tasting with a difference. Not only does it offer you the opportunity to taste award winning wines from our portfolio of family owned producers but, for the first time, we have matched a selection of our wines to a range of delicious canapés to demonstrate the breadth and versatility of our range".
I met up with Douglas and duly sampled said food and wine matches (expect the oysters... I can't 'do' oysters). Of the 200 or so wines available to taste the following were offered with a food match (I'm sure Douglas has blogged about this tasting too, but I can't find the post to link to direct).
Wine Tasting Note: E Guigal St Joseph Blanc, 2006, Rhone, France
Price: £12.95 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A 95% Marsanne, 5% Rousanne blend matched with chèvre, dressed radicchio, walnut croutons, ripe pear and toasted walnuts. A lovely wine restrained richness, almond, hazelnut and lime nose but the goats cheese was a little too strong for the wine, deadeneing it somewhat. But the radicchio and walnuts worked beautifully.
Wine Tasting Note: Hugel Pinot Gris Tradition, 2005, Alsace, France
Price: £9.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A 100% Pinot Gris and a super match with the canapé - Butter Chicken with coriander on a tiny poppadom - the butter really balancing the wine and the coriander bringing freshness adding to the lovely long-lasting taste.
Wine Tasting Note: Mouton Cadet Reserve Graves Rouge, 2006, Bordeaux, France
[More on Adegga / Snooth]
An on-trade only wine with an easy drinking style, but it didn't match with the Chargrilled Rosemary-Marinated Lamb fillet, served pink, with babaganoush to dip. OK with the lamb but the dip killed the wine. The dish however was superb with the Rothschild Escudo Rojo, 2006 ( a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 27% Carmenere, 7% Syrah).
Wine Tasting Note: Bodegas Torres Salmos, 2006, Priorat, Spain
Price: £11.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Matched with Cochinillo Asado - organic roast suckling pig stuffed with juniper and rosemary with wild rocket and a Cox's Apple Sauce - this blend of Spanish and international varieties (Garnacha Tinta, Syrah, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon) was a deliciously superb match hiting every spot.
Wine Tasting Note: Edmeades Mendocino Zinfandel, Mendocino Valley, 2006, California
Price: £11.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A lovely wine - big, fruity, slightly sweet with a nice crunchy berry finish went well with the Confit of Duck with Cranberry Relish on a Polenta Croute. Teh wine is a blend of 85.45 Zinfandel, 7.2% Petit Syrah, 3.7% Merlot, 2.7% Syrah and 1% Grenache. High alcohol at 15.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Tyrrell's Winemaker's Selection VAT 1 Semillon, 2002, Australia
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £7.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Not often a fan of Australian Semillon disliking the waxy/herbyness but this particular version sings beautifully with food. In this case Bite-Sized Salmon, Smoked Haddock and Cod Tartlets.
Wine Tasting Note: Chakana Malbec, 2007, Argentina
Price: £5.50 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A simple, basic wine with an upfront richness but came across as good with the food - bite-sized beef empanadas.
Many thanks to Fells for providing such an interesting tasting. While some of the matches didn't quite work the effort in providing such an interesting array of canapés was well worth the trouble. While the Argentine Malbec was a rather disappointing end to the wine and food matches the rest of the tasting awaited - hell, they had a Room of Discovery and Room of Excellence left to explore.
[Tastings are not that suited to taking photographs, this snap, via the mobile phone, is out of focus but shows the Hugel Pinot Gris and the Butter Chicken with coriander on a tiny poppadom.]
Notes from a Laithwaites Tasting

A little tasting a few weeks back (I'm falling behind with my note writing!), in the high Victorian Gothic splendours of Oxford Town Hall (such a welcome change from having to trundle all the way to the metropolis), offered a just under 30 wines from the companies range.
A vast majority of the wines offered are own label - just a smattering from well known names (Cloudy Bay, Royal Tokaji, Hunters for example) appear on their list. The company owns a Chateau in Bordeaux where many staff are sent to learn the intercacies of wine making. Visiting a vineyard and winery is an amazing experience and really brings home the connection between land and final product.
Shame then that the Laithwaite Sauvignon Blanc (£7.89) from this estate, Chateau La Clarière was one of the worst wines available at the tasting. Perhaps they should send me a bottle to try for the girls running the tasting were hugely enthused by it and their experiences of visiting the estate, but my notes read slightly over extracted, harsh nose, sharp acidic finish.
But other drinks were more palatable:
Wine Tasting Note: Alessandro Gallici Prosecco Brut, NV, Vino Spumante, Italy.
Price: £8.89 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Gentle nose, vibrant fizz (like you were expecting something else?), frothy, fun. Tranch of peachy, appley, fruit. Good price. Alcohol 11.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Royal Tokaji Dry Furmint, 2006, Hungary.
Price: £10.69 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
An unusual wine with which to tempt the masses; I imagine trying is the best way to sell this (there was a wine club tasting, with the same wines as offered to me occurring simultaneously in an adjacent room) . No nose but an interesting array of flavours on the palate - clean, minerally, citrus, slightly honeyed, apricoty.
Wine Tasting Note: Rocky Rombola Rosé, 2008, New South Wales, Australia
Price: £6.29 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Delicious looking colour, vibrant. Very Aussie in style, ripe fruit, full, good price. A freshness and vibrancy (that were lacking in a couple of other rosés at the tasting). Along with the fruitiness there is a nice, sharp berry edge on the finish. Alcohol 13%. £6.29.
Wine Tasting Note: Gran Valle de Niebla Pinot Noir, 2007, Rapel, Chile
Price: £9.15 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
From the reliable Cono Sur stable. Easy drinking, soft, but over-priced. Alcohol 13.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Stony Creek Tarrango Shiraz, 2006, Big Rivers, Fleurieu & Gundagai, Australia
Price: £7.39 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
An interesting blend (70% Tarrango, 30% Shiraz) Light and fruity almost pinot in style. Tarrango on the nose, Syrah on the finish. Offers a juicy softness. Alcohol 13%. £7.39.
Wine Tasting Note: Tenca Tree Shiraz , 2007, Central Valley, Chile
Price: £6.29 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Deep,almost opaque in colour. Good blackberry spiced nose and decent spicy finish. Commercial,soft but nice expression. Alcohol 13%.
Wine Tasting Note: San Floriano Ripasso, 2005, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Italy
Price: £11.39 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
The best red of the tasting - lovely palate, and rich, expressive nose. Plenty of tannins, concentration and ripe, stewed fruit. Good length. Alcohol 13.5%.
Cider Tasting Note: Cidre Artisanal Le Brun Brut, NV, Cidre de Bretagne, France
Price: £4.29
Not really a cider fan but this is rather nice - not 'dirty; as some ciders can be on the nose, not to alcoholic either (which is the normal region I dislike cider). Alcohol 5.5%. Sweetish fruit, dry finish £4.29.
Wine Tasting Note: Miranda Golden Botrytis, NV, Riverina, Australia
Price: £11.15 half bottle [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A mix of Riverina Semillon and King Valley Riesling. Fresh, treacle and orange syrup nose. Rich, full, sweet, mouth-filling, ripe and good complexity for the price. Alcohol 10%.
Many years ago I was interviewed for a job at Laithwaites essentially writing the (prodigiously large and frequent) mailing material; much to their loss I didn't get the job!
Brief Notes from the Top 100 Vins de Pays 2008
Of the 1,214 samples submitted to the competition tasting there were 520 red wines, 518 white and 176 rosé. Of these wines 14 trophies were awarded to six white wines, one rosé and seven reds.
"So how did the Top 100 pan out this year? As you'd expect, Vin de Pays d'Oc had the largest number in the winners' enclosure, with exactly half the wines selected - although statistically speaking, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne had a better hit rate (15 wines out of 95 entries). "
"The judges were impressed by the diversity and overall quality of the top 100, and most were surprised by what the much criticised 2007 vintage had produced. Most of them singled out rosés as the area of greatest improvement. The Merlots were also a lot better than last year, although several judges felt it was the red blends that really stood out."
From my tasting of the top 100 (not all of the 100 were tried, I should mention) it was the red blends that stood out for me. Stockist information and links are included but most wines are now out of stock; you might be able to secure stocks of follow on vintages.
White Wines
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de la Coche, 2007, VdP du Val de Loire
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
Winner Sauvignon Blanc Trophy. 100% Sauvignon Blanc grown in Retz south of Nantes. 12% Alcohol. Grassy, green aromas. Very pure, gravelly, palate complex hints of orange. Alcohol 12%.
Wine Tasting Note: Rive Haute Sauvignon, 2007, VdP des Côtes de Gascogne
Stockist: Adnams Price: £8.49 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
£8.49 Adnams. Rounder than the previous (south, warmer climes) good, long length. Alcohol 11.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: M&S Grenache Blanc, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Marks and Spencer Price: £5.49 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Grenache Blanc Trophy and Best Wine of Show
Grenache Blanc grown around Carcassonne. Delicious stone-led palate, zesty, lemony, floral hints. A little oak aging adding complexity. 12.5% Alcohol.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine le Roc Anges Les Vieilles Vignes, 2006, VdP des Pyrénées-Orientales
Stockist: Les Caves de Pyréne Price: £11.85 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A blend of Grenache Gris (80%) and Macabeu (20%). Crisp, toasty flavours, orange and lime rind. Excellent length. Alcohol 14%.
Wine Tasting Note: Vignoble Guillaume Chardonnay Collection Réservée, 2004, VdP de Franche-Comté.
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
Chardonnay Trophy Winner. Chardonnay from 28 year-old vines. Honeyed, buttery, peachy palate. Unfiltered. Alcohol 13%.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine L'Hortus Grande Cuvée Blanc, 2006, VdP du Val de Montferrand
Stockist: Les Caves de Pyréne Price: £12.40 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
£12.40
A mix of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Roussanne (5%). Crisp but rounded, full of flavour and great length. Alcohol 13.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Producteurs Vignoble de Gascogne Fleur de Givre Florenbelle, 2007, VdP des Côtes de Gascogne
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £7.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]. - Gros Manseng Trophy Winner
£6.99 Late harvested. Lingering, cleanly fresh, exotic was one word overheard as a description. Alcohol 11.5%.
Red Wines
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Py Merlot, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Price: £5.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
- Merlot Trophy Winner
From a 32ha at the foot of Mont Alaric in the Corbières region. Deeply coloured with a open, straw and blackcurrant and leaves led nose, creamy, rounded, good structure, good price.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Paul Mas La Forge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Price: £7.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
- Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy Winner
Heavy weight bottle, full, rich, lashings of raspberry and blueberry. Great length. Alcohol 13.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Camplazens Syrah, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Majestic Price: £6.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth] - Syrah Trophy Winner
Deep, deep, colour, wonderful bacon edge aroma, violets and similar on a gorgeous palate. Plenty of cassis laced with inky fruit. Super. Alcohol 13%.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Familongue, Le Carignan de Familongue, 2007, VdP du Mont
Price: £5.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth] - Carignan Trophy Winner
Excellent packaging. 100% Carignan from 50-60 year old vines. Juicy. Not as heavy as the colour would suggest, deeply flavoured.
Wine Tasting Note: Camplazens Marselan, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Majestic Price: £6.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
£6.49 Majestic. Very deeply coloured, nice lifted aromas and a rather tasty, curranty, palate.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de La Jasse Vieilles Vignes, 2006, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: ay and Wheeler Price: £9.95 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Red brick in colour but a lovely balanced palate and lingering flavours.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Phillippe Nusswitz Miratus, 2005, VdP d'Oc
[More on Adegga / Snooth] - Best Red Wine of Show
Striking packaging. Blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre (20%) vines are grown in the foothills of the Cevennes between the Languedoc and the Rhône. Wonderful nose, gorgeous palate, complex but not heavy. Sadly no details of stockists or price.
Alsace Wine with Food - thoughts from the Hugel Twitter Tasting
With each course to be as simple as possible a couple of matches were easy: with the Gewürztraminer a foie gras (with toast and a little fig chutney) and with the Pinot Blanc an Alsace speciality (or the closest we could locate) an onion tart. I read somewhere that coconut macaroons were a sensational match to sweet Gewürztraminers, so that was the final dish sorted which left a course for the mixed grape blend and another for a top-notch Riesling. The host, Rob, insisted on a pork dish and I came up with Pork Medallions with Mustard Mash with Apple and a Cider Reduction. A triumphant match as it transpired. Scallops from Borough Market formed the opening course; which I was unexpectedly asked to cook!
A few shavings of fresh ginger, a little garlic, slithers of a mild, fresh red chilli and a sprinkling of dried coriander were added to the pan before the scallops turned rubbery. A splosh of white wine and a pinch of pepper, a quick shake of the pan and a squeeze of lemon and then out to the expectant guests. To be honest I thought I had overdone the spice but nods all round seemed to indicate a success!
Continue reading "Alsace Wine with Food - thoughts from the Hugel Twitter Tasting" »
Ginger Beer Taste Test

Each ginger beer was tasted blind and ranked out of 5, with 0 being undrinkable and 5 being damn tasty. The average scores are detailed below with the products listed in taste order. The tasters, who incidentally were of a wide span of ages (from early teens to 'getting on a bit'), were encouraged to write a few words some of which are quoted.
Ginger Beer 1 - Whole Earth Sparkling Organic Ginger (can) Score
"lacks body/light", "fizzy, long after-taste", "subtle taste, pale in colour" "my favourite"
Ginger Beer 2 - Fentimans Botanically Brewed Ginger Beer (bottle) Score
"odd smell" "really strong taste of ginger", "ginger kick", "strong after-taste"
Ginger Beer 3 - Bunderberg Diet Ginger Beer (bottle) Score
"lemon like smell", "cloudy, very lemony", "too much lemon", "a ginger kick on the finish but why so lemony?"
Ginger Beer 4 - Belvoir Fruit Farms Organic Ginger Beer (bottle) Score
"smells horrid", "dirty water smell", "unpleasant", "chemicals, burning aftertaste", "yuck!"
Ginger Beer 5 - Old Jamacia Ginger Beer (can) Score
"Best, if slightly sweet", "quite nice", "very sweet, very pleasant, syrupy"
Prior to organising this tasting I had tried the Belvoir Fruit Farms version; and was astounded at just how terrible the drink was - a smell of dirty washing up water, and an unbelievably bad, dirty, taste made worse by the ginger kick that is suddenly sprung on you. So bad, so undrinkable yet sold at a premium at various delis. I actually thought I had an off bottle but it would seem not.
Personally either of the two canned products I would be happy to drink as they are over ice. The strong ginger kick in the Fentimans would be my choice for a cocktail mix, as in some of the Pimms cocktails.
With thanks to the various members of the extended Barrow-clan for conducting the tasting.
Ses'Fikile Wines, South Africa

Although they don't own their own vineyards the wines are made in conjunction with the winemakers from the Flagstone winery.
Showing a distinct 'estate' character and an over-riding style, the wines come highly recommended. The style encapsulates a new-world level of sweet upfront fruit married with old-world structure - exactly what one should expect from a decent South African wine.
Ses'fikile 'we have arrived'. These three words are built on a foundation of personal and communal struggle, yet they also look forward positively, with the hope of a better tomorrow. Most importantly the words sparkle with a sense of adventure. This is a pioneering exploration of new South African opportunity in one of our most glamorous and exciting industries."
Other wines from Ses'Fikile are listed by Marks and Spencers.
Food and Wine Matching at The FrontLine
Luckily my diary for last Saturday was empty¹; so the invite for a meal at the FrontLine Restaurant was taken up with gusto. The evening was advertised as a 'Special evening with Malcolm Gluck and John Taylor'; a food and wine matching event to all intense and purposes. Malcolm Gluck is the wine buyer for the Front Line restaurant.
While Malcolm Gluck was obviously there, entertaining us with a great evening-long impression of a drunken Worzel Gummidge, I never did find out who John Taylor was.
I did run into the Cooksister, whose skillful hand with the compact camera provided the images here and had an all too brief chat with Fraser Lewry who writes over at BlogJam and is eating his way through the alphabet over on the Guardian's Word of Mouth (where you can also find me occasionally).
We also had the pleasure - which impressed the rest on our table no end - to be interviewed by the delightful Chris. We were forewarned that "Chris is keen to record a radio feature on food bloggers for BBC Radio 5 Live" and to "come equipped with wit". This I think we did with gusto but perhaps I should mention (if on the off-chance I actually make it through the cutting to the broadcast) that it was quite late in the evening; and the wine had been quite free flowing.
The meal:
Aperitif: Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc, 2006, France - Grassy with a touch of Lychee and a nice softness. Enjoyable.
Starter: Cock-a-Leekie Soup served with Voyager Estate Margaret River Semillon, 1998, Australia. A revelation and really a sublime match. Normally I dislike waxy aged Semillon, and the grape can be dull without age, but when matched with the soup a real harmonious combination resulted.
Main Course: Boiled Beef with a pearl Barley and carrot Broth, Parsley and Beetroot Dumplings accompanied by Fairview Estate Agostinelli Barbera, 2006, South Africa. A couple on our table didn't enjoy this at all. I can see why but I found it very interesting. It is big, ripe, perhaps a little over-extracted but with good structure and acidity. It cut through the rather mouth-clogging, unusual, dumplings wonderfully. Not totally convinced it was a good match with the salty beef. Interesting grape variety though with high alcohol.
Cheeses: I forget the cheeses - something from Ireland, a Lancashire and a Stilton I think. The wine, a Segna Le Roc des Domaine Anges Cotes du Roussillon, 2006, was not good. A heavily accentuated 'feral' aroma (I think I used the word 'shit' during the BBC interview). Underneath this though was an interesting wine full of dark fruits. I found it undrinkable.
Dessert: A Bread and Butter Pudding matched with a Don PX Toro Albala Dulce de Pasas Montilla-Morales, 2004, Spain. The pud was very flavoursome, which we put down to a layer of Quince jam. It was a typical English pudding, big and filling. It failed to match the wine which, while excellent in its own right, was extremely big and rich. The sweetness was enough to be a dessert in its own right. I would have served it with some simple biscuits or matched something lighter and less sweet with the Bread and Butter Pud.
¹ - for which read 'rubbish social life'
Continue reading "Food and Wine Matching at The FrontLine" »
Two Wines From San Lorenzo

Wine Tasting Note: Fattoria Mantellassi Morellino de Scansano, 2006, Tuscany, Italy.
Available from San Lorenzo for £9.73.
A super burst of ripe, almost sweet, fruit initially with plenty of cherry and blackcurrant flavours. Perfectly drinkable but could do with a little more age to come together - being open a-while helped in opening out the palate adding hints of spice and vanilla to a really nice wine.
Mostly Sangiovese plumped up with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvaisa Nero and Canaiolo Nero. Alcohol 13.5%. The cheese pictured I believe is Bitto that worked rather nicely with both the Chianti and the Scansano.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]
Wine Tasting Note: Fattoria di Luiano Chianti Classico 2005, Chianti, Italy.
Available from San Lorenzo for £10.83.
A spirited acidity marks this out as typically Chianti - a wine that proved its worth in matching the various Italian cheeses available on the night. Vibrant and crisp finish with a nice lingering flavour. Red fruits and cherries to the fore here with an edge of rusticity giving character.
Alcohol 13%. Mostly Sangiovese with a small amount of Canaiolo.
Scribblings Rating - 86/100 [3.25 out of 5]
In general Morellino di Scansano is less acidic than Chianti and, coming from a warmer area, are broader and with more sweet fruit. This is born out by comparing these two wines - the acidity in the Chianti was much more marked with the fruit being fleshier and riper in the Morellino. Both are great although my preference is for the Morellino (that riper fruit was a winner) if only on price.
Prosecco and Food
Now of course you don't have Michelin starred food at home - or maybe you do and it's just me that has to slum it - but these fine-wine/meet the winemaker dinners are a superb opportunity to sample high quality cuisine and enjoy some innovative wine and food matching combinations at the same time.
They do have relevance on a more everyday level in that the matches can be 'replicated' at home with more humble fare. At the very least they can provide indications of the versatility of the wines in question as I discovered at a Bisol Prosecco dinner held at L'Ortolan in Berkshire the other week.
The menu is detailed below. The wine and various notes were scribbled at the time on the back of the napkin. Sadly no images of any of the beautifully presented dishes are available.
One of the most interesting and 'extreme' matches was the combination of roasted pork with a Prosecco. The Cartizze bottling, with its hint of sweetness, would not have been my initial choice of wine to accompany such a dish, but the Roasted Loin and Braised Shoulder of Suckling Pig had an inherent sweetness and made for a sublime match with the wine. The apple butter sauce and sage gnocchi, served alongside, picked up similar flavour components in the wine. A heavenly match.
Bisol Dinner, L'Ortolan, 23rd March 2007
- Chefs Appetiser
no wine with this frothy chicken soup. Really, really good. - Ballottine of Organic Salmon, Herb Creme Fraiche, Purple Potato Mousse and Horseradish Relish
with Bisol 'Garnei' Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2004
The horseradish was a revelation. So accustom am I to the shop brought generic jars that the flavour here was astounding - fresh, vibrant with a burst of heat on the finish but not at all over-powering or burning. The Prosecco was in perfect balance with the food, refreshing the palate after the horseradish and complimenting the salmon superbly. It would seem that there are more options to matching wine with fish than Sauvignon Blanc! 
Foie Gras and pan d'Epices 'sandwich' with Quince Jelly
served with Bisol 'Duca di Dolle' Passito
The Duca di Dolle is the sweet wine in the Bisol line-up. (A substitue for Sauternes, the usual partner for Foie Gras). Consternation from someunadventurousquarters of a dessert wine served before the 'main course' but, for me, a perfect partner to the smooth and 'meltingly lovely' foie gras. Slicing through the 'sandwich' revealing a little smoked bacon adding further complexity to the flavour. These myriad tastes lifted the wine, imparting an astounding spicy, ginger edge. It all added to the gorgeousness of the whole.- Roast Monkfish, Homemade Linguine, Mussel and Mild Curry Cream
Bisol 'Molera' Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2006 - a still wine.
The richness of the previous course did effect the flavour of this still wine; unless you cleansed the palate with a glass or two of water the sweetness of the Passito would make any still, dry wine taste a little flat. To me this is the least inspiring of the Bisol line-up but it worked very nicely with the perfectly cooked Monkfish, with its Sauvignon Blanc-like crispness, but it lacks a little 'something'. - Roasted Loin and Braised Shoulder of Suckling Pig, Sage Gnocchi, Apple Bitter Sauce, Roasting Juices
with Bisol 'Cartizze' Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2005
An unusual pairing - a meat dish with a Prosecco. Even the Italians on our table were at pains to state that this is not a typical Italian combination. But it worked stunningly well - the sweetness of the pork was simply superb with the wines touch of residual sugar. The apple puree matching with similar flavours in the wine. A surprising but welcome pairing. - Pre-Dessert
A rhubarb compote with a ginger and champagne cream topped with a rhubarb ice. Wonderous. - Lemon Possett, White Chocolate Mousse, Meringues and Lemon Zest Confit
with Bisol 'Crede' Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, 2005
The least successful match of the evening. The wine was too dry and too delicate in flavour to match the sweetness of the dish and the vibrant lemon flavours. Was this a case of 'oh, we have one more wine to squeeze in'? The Bisol Duca di Dolle Passito, the sweet wine from the Foie Gras course was a hugely superior match. The dish though was 'divine'. The Crede is a lovely wine by itself but just a little too dry for this dessert.
Howard Park Wines at Hotel Du Vin
To my right is Michael Kerrigan winemaker for Howard Park and on my left sits Henri Chapon, something very important in the Du Vin hotel chain. I polish off the last of the aperitif – Howard Park Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – as the first course arrives.
Du Vin hosts regular wine making dinners across the estate this, covering the wines of Western Australia’s Howard Park wines, just happened to be in their Henley branch – built in part of the old Brakspear Brewery.
Being seated next to the winemaker was a coup; had a great chat about his aims for the estate, his constraints (more terroir based than anything) , his passions (a white wine lover) and his hates (don’t mention Pinot Gris!), screw-caps verses cork (“who cares? The debate is over”) and future plans (“Nebbiolo and Tempranillo; but it takes an age to get cuttings into WA”). And it’s nice to get his views on each wine as they were poured.
Howard Park is the premium range; the more familiar Madfish Bay comes from the same people. Grapes are sourced from two distinct regions that of Margaret River south of Perth in Western Australia and the lesser known Mount Barker down on the south coasts aptly named Great Southern region. While the soils are similar – for those who relish in such things it is a mix of gravely loams and loamy sands – the climate between the two are where the variations arise. While Margaret River is maritime influenced by the warm currents from the Indian Ocean, Mount Barker is cooler taking its influences from the cooler waters to the south.
ABSA Top 10 Pinotage Competition 2006.
I was invited for a second year to the Top 10 Pinotage London tasting last month. The tasting, followed by a rather nice lunch, was attended by several of the winning winemakers no doubt in town for the London Wine Fair in addition to this tasting.
Wines listed below with more details on the day at Wine Sediments
Alsace Wines From The House Of Leon Beyer.

Cost for the evening was £30; great value considering the cost of some of the wines available. The food was a little basic (bread, a little salad and two slices of savoury tart) and didn't really measure up to the 'dine' portion of the name and certainly doesn't compare to the spread offered by Ultimate Wines at their similarly styled tastings.
Brief notes to each of the wines are below but for those who find ready such notes a touch dull... don't bother with the Pinot Noir (why do they continue with Pinot Noir at all in Alsace?), the Riesling Cuvee des Comtes d'Eguisheim is drinking superbly but has years of promise ahead, while the Pinot Gris 2000 Cuvee des Comtes d'Eguisheim and the Gewurztraminer Cuvee Comtes d'Eguisheim 2000 display the house style (a touch of austerity) to the palate and aroma beautifully and are heartily recommended. Finally the sweeter wines - Vendages Tardive and Selection de Grains Nobles - while stunningly delicious are seriously expensive. If you can afford them, then great. If you are poor like me then....
Continue reading "Alsace Wines From The House Of Leon Beyer." »
Top 100 Vin De Pays Tasting
The great and the good of the UK wine world (and no that doesn't include me) tasted a few wines earlier in the year and came up with the Top 100 Vin de Pays. More than a few wines actually; more like over 1,000. As last year the winning wines were available for tasting at the London Wine and Spirits Fair last week. Reflecting the poor quality harvest in 2004 the 16 judges chose not to award trophies for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Viognier. As the white wines were mostly from the 2005 vintage they showed better.For me it was the whites, especially from the more obscure varietal end, that excited. A stunningly delicious Rousanne from Domaine Sainte Rose stood out (Charles Simpson, owner of Sainte Rose is third from the right in the photo) as did the Rolle (aka Vermentino) from Domaine des Lauriers. Both offer a great array of complex and interesting flavours; really I can't recommend them more highly.
For the reds a Cabernet Franc (Carnaval) and a blend of Cabernet and Syrah (Mas des Bressades) led the pack. The former is a little expensive at around fifteen quid but worth a punt if you are feeling generous but both were eclipsed by the superb La Crois Cascaillou that hit the spot with its blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre.
Framingham Wines, New Zealand.
Wine Tasting Note Framingham Dry Riesling, 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand.Approximately £11.
The only Riesling sampled at the tasting that displayed that elusive and haunting kerosene aroma. Lime and a mineral, steely edge to the palate. Finishes in a long, dry finish. Held more interests and complexity than many other punchy, lime dominated Rieslings.
Scribblings Rating - 88/100

Wine Tasting Note: Framingham Pinot Gris, 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand.Approximately £11.
A delicious weighty rendition. Pears, apples and a hint of citrus, an Alsace-like touch of spice and musk. Excellent balanced. Rounded and a small level of sweetness on the finish.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100
Wine Tasting Note Framingham Gewürztraminer, 2004, Marlborough, New Zealand.Around £11.
Not an overly flowery nose but layers of ginger and spice play on the nose. A distinct touch of sweetness which adds to the rich texture. Apricot and lychee. Lovely weight and a delicious chocolatly finish. Alcohol 14.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100
Maven Wines, New Zealand

Wine Tasting Note Maven Wines Chardonnay, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand.Approximately £10.
Here the grapes are purchased from other growers and average 20 years. Just a smidgen of oak influence here with 10% in new oak and 10% in old. Certainly fruit-driven with the oak underpinning the whole. Citrus and orange flavours enliven the palate.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100
Wine Tasting Note: Maven Wines Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand.Approximately £10.
Six different blocks output are blended into this. The vines are still young at just three years old, but with selection and post-fermentation blending produce a tight, crisp but lively wine perhaps lacking a touch in complexity (young vines) - still bright, crisp, vivacious.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100
I was lucky to sample the yet to be released oak aged Chardonnay. While they have engaged in battonage and full oak treatment the balance was spot on. Hard to fully pronounce on a wine that isnt going to be released for six months but it seemed damn good to me!

Wine Tasting Note Maven Wines Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand.Around £10.
I love a good Pinot Gris here we have a good weight, broad delicious flavours and good balance. Nice golden hue to the colour and a goodly amount of pear and honey aromas. Peach and honeyed-apple with a sprinkling of spice, coupled with a good creamy texture, provide the interest in a broad, full palate. All this squeezed from the seven year old vines.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100
New Zealand Wine Tasting.
It was the Maven range that really stood out - the packaging is superb, each wine in the range labeled with vibrant photographs of local huts, barns or bridges in an over-saturated, blurred style. Sadly the website is down otherwise I would direct you to look before I write-up the notes; I will have to scan the images in. The stuff inside the bottles wasn't bad either!
Mike's passion for his job and his wines was very evident. He has a great story to tell, not only does he sport an eye-patch, loves donning a full suit of armour and waving around a sword but he has plans to build a medieval house on the edge of his estate. He also claims to be descended from Edward III one of the Plantagenet's.
South Africa Mega Tasting - Wine Recommendations.
The biggest South African tasting in the UK ever I believe. A mass of producers from every region offering wine in all the permutations you can think of. Confronted by the huge number of producers and wines I stuck to the generic tasting tables - those covering the Platters Guide Top Ten, Chenin Blanc and stickies."The cap's wine-growing regions are influenced by the Atlantic and Indian oceans. The beneficial maritime conditions this creates, like regular coastal fog and cooling sea breezes, combine with a mild Mediterranean climate, distinctive and varied topography, diverse soils and adequate sunshine. These influences are also the story of wine. Each resulting mesoclimate produces a wine that is different from any other wine. And every quality winemaker is looking to make wine which reflects a unique sense of place."
Continue reading "South Africa Mega Tasting - Wine Recommendations." »
Rioja In Retail Tasting.

I am falling behind in writing up all the tastings I have been to recently. This small tasting, dedicated to just one region and with the wines readily available on the high street was a joy. Split between two rooms one area covered the supermarkets and the larger retailers, while the other offered wines from the smaller independent. It was with this group that I spent most of my time.
I have excluded the old style leathery, dried fruit Riojas for more fruit driven wines. Six wines here with a seventh covered a while ago. The Dioniso Ruiz Ijalba, (2002, Rioja, Spain) was a joy made all the more special by being made from an extremely rare variety.
The Independent has coverage of this tasting written by Anthony Rose as does the Observer Magazine written by Tim Atkin.
Mitchelton Wines Australia.

I seem to be having a fling with the Antipodes at the moment. One minute New Zealand, next Australia. This estate was founded in 1973 and has the prominent tower making the winery one of Australia's most architecturally fascinating. The tower rises 55m above the cellar door giving an "inspiring view of the vineyards set on the meander of the pristine Goulburn River". The wines ain't bad either. All are available from Bibendum.
Spy Valley Wines, New Zealand.
The Spy Valley estate did not get off to a great start. Back in 1992 Bryan Johnson (a wealthy Wellington stockbroker - aren't they all!) planted 200 acres on the edge of Marlborough, New Zealand. But was forced to replant almost immediately as phylloxera swept through the vineyard. Proving that wine-making is all about experimentation depending on local conditions - it is after-all farming and thus dependent on so many variables - the first two vintages were cropped too high. "We reduced our cropping levels in 2002, and then started to get very serious about quality in 2003."
From then the estate prospered and now covers 365 acres and has to buy in Sauvignon Blanc grapes to cope with demand. In 2004 the winery made 58,000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc and another 18,000 cases of other varietals.
In the UK the wines are available from Bibendum and several independents (a couple of which I have listed). Surprisingly for a boutique producer, they are not excessively priced.
Wines from Matetic Vineyards, Chile.
The second 'discovery' at the Explore Chile Tasting was the range of wines presented by Matetic Vineyards. It was the packaging that caught my eye; good shelf presence as they say. The vineyards are planted in the San Antonio region. This has a cool climate being 18km from the Pacific. The estate has 60 hectares under vine, all of which were planted in 1999. The grapes are grown organically. There are two ranges the Corralillo and the EQ (equilibrio/equilibrium).
Notes taken at Explore Chile Trade Tasting September 2005.
Wines From Casa Marin, Chile.
Vina Casa Marin is located just 4 km from the sea in the San Antonio Valley Region, making it the closest vineyard in Chile to the Pacific Ocean. The unique climatic exposure and wide variety of soils found here give birth to a unique viticultural terrior modified, as it is, by the cooling breezes from the Ocean."We allow nature to tell us when the time is right for picking. Our aim is to let the wine reflect the terrior where it comes from and delight us with its aromas and textures." Maria Luz Marin, winemaker.
Notes taken at Explore Chile Trade Tasting September 2005.
The Mountain Valley Range.
I wasn't expecting much from these to be honest. Another range of cheap Eastern European wines with 'rustic' and 'requires food' appearing in the less than positive tasting notes. Well I was surprised. The reds were every bit as drinkable and 'international' in style as you could hope. You might not try them and immediately think 'Montenegro' but then what would but in terms of quality and drinkability they certainly held their own. The whites were less successful. I thought the Sauvignon Blanc might be suffering from some poor wine-making while the Chardonnay, well, just wasn't that great.
At the time of writing there are no listed UK stockist of these wines. But they are going to be served at Fifpro World X1 player Awards a 'mega-do' with 1500 guests.
Ultimate Wines Dessert Wine Tasting June 2005.
Would you believe Guacamole was the surprise hit of the evening? I think it must be the inherent fat in the dish - acting similar to that in cheese, with the acidity cutting through the richness. You really should try it once!
Continue reading "Ultimate Wines Dessert Wine Tasting June 2005." »
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Circle of Wine Writers Tasting.
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Circle of Wine Writers Tasting 14th June 2005Kettners Restaurant, Soho, London.
Zind Humbrecht - perhaps one of the top producers in Alsace produces a host of differing wines all under biodynamic principles. A superb tasting hosted by the Circle of Wine Writers had Olivier Humbrecht MW (France's only live in French MW) discussing these wines, his drive for quality and the vineyard experiments he has overseen to propel his wines to the upper echelons of excellence.
Humbrechts have been producing wines in Alsace since 1620, although the present domaine was only created in 1959 when Leonard Humbrecht married Genevi�ve Zind, thereby uniting the two families` vineyards. Today it is unquestionably one of the star estates, producing rich and expressive wines that reflect their individual sites and terroirs.
The domaine has 40 hectares of vineyards with vines in 4 Grands Crus areas - Rangen, Goldert, Hengst and Brand. Production is generally 130,000-140,000 bottles a year.
Continue reading "Domaine Zind Humbrecht Circle of Wine Writers Tasting." »
The Bulgarian Five.
Unfortunately, as happens occasionally, the strawberry coloured rose had a little cork taint so I have not reviewed that specific bottle. The other five wines were fine and demonstrated just how individual and distinctive wines from Bulgaria can be.
There is a excellent site dedicated to the wines of Bulgaria that gives details of the fascinating history of the country and a few of the other producers.
Technorati Tags: wine food & drink wine tasting bulgaria
Pic Wines Tasting

Three Tasting Notes - Vin de Pays Trophy Winners.

Retail Price 6.99.
A full on rush of nutty apricots leaps from the glass while a weighty palate, fresh and crisp, reveals sherbet and a dash of spice. Superb. Alcohol 13.5%. Production of 84,000 bottles.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100
Laurent Miquel
"Obviously we are delighted with the result and proud to have five wines featured in the Top 100. We are specialists in Viognier and now have 25ha in production. The wine proves that low yields and careful oak aging with top-quality Viogner fruit can give really interesting and exciting results."

"Bloody Good!" exclaimed John. How right he is. Superb, huge drinkability, lovely fruit on the palate supported by generous tannins. Big and characterful. Alcohol 12.5%. Production of 14,800 bottles.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100
Xavier Guillaume
"The standard of this competition was already high last year, when we were selected as part of the Top 100, and is even more so this year. So I am over the moon to have won this trophy. there's a real interest in France to use this competition to show just how high the quality of VIns de Pays can be."

Retail price around 5.
I am delighted that my friends down at 3 Poules have been awarded a trophy for this wine. More weight and depth than a Loire Cab. Franc this has great character, super depth and a fruit led spiciness that demonstrates its southern French origins. Alcohol 13.5%. Production of 4,500 bottles.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100
Ruth Parker de Latude
"We are really DELIGHTED to have won this pize! Especially as this is only our second harvest, this really is very encouraging. For us it's like scaling Mount Everest."
The full list of Vin De Pays Trophy Winners was reported here last April.
Wines from Quinta de Chocapalha.

Sandra, the daughter of Alice, is the wine maker both here and at Quinta Vale D. Maria. Chocapalha is 50 hectare estate, purchased and replanted in the late 1980s with the first commercial vintage released in 2000. Small production here with 30-35,000 cases annually. The red varieties are hand-selected and foot-trodden separately in stone lagares before fermentation at low temperatures.
Only Corney and Barrow currently stock these wines in the UK. They also list wines from Quinta Vale d. Maria. Out comes my credit card
Quinta de Chocapalha Vinho Branco, 2004, Estramadura, Portugal.
Corney & Barrow 8.87.
A delicious crisp blend of Chardonnay (60%), Vitel (10%) and barrel-aged Arinto (30%). Minerally, fresh, long lasting flavours, upfront fruit. Delicious. Only let down by being a touch expensive. Production of just 3,000 cases.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100
Quinta de Chocapalha Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003, Estramadura, Portugal.
Corney & Barrow 8.99.
I believe this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Very international in design (while still retaining the individualistic Estate-style) with immediate sweet, blackberry fruit before the intense complexity bursts over the palate trailing plenty of tannin in its wake. Production amounts to just 6,000 bottles.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100
Quinta de Chocapalha Vinho Tinto, 2002, Estramadura, Portugal.
Corney & Barrow 7.64.
This is a superb blend of Touriga Naional, Tinta Roriz and Alicante Bouschet. A stunning array of complex flavours, concentrated, rich. Still quite tannic, drinkable now but with several years to go. Excellent.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100
Quinta de Chocapalha, Chocapalha, 2001, Estramadura, Portugal.
Corney & Barrow 12.98.
The estates flagship wine utilising their highest quality grapes. A blend of 60% Touriga Naional and 40% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo). Excellent. Chocolate spice nose with spicy black fruit flavours. Rich, concentrated, a touch of oak, not over-bearing, depth and complexity in droves. Excellent long lasting flavours.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100
Five Spanish Rosés.

Ultimate Wines Austrian Tasting.
The wines of Austria are of world class quality encompassing, not only the sweet wines and Rieslings most of us are aware of, but also a collection of unique varieties and individual expressions of more well known grapes. To purchase any of these however it is to the independent sector you must turn.
With timely coincidence Ultimate Wine Company announced their latest evening tasting was to be a fascinating collection of... wait for it... Austrian wines!
We began with a quaint little Rotgipfler as an aperitif. Rotgipfler is one of those local grapes - that makes nicely weighty, dry wines that remind me of a Pinot Gris somewhat with its subtle spiciness. The Biegler Rotgipfler Brindlbach 2003 was very pleasant (very enjoyable in fact) but a touch pricey at £9.99 a bottle. As before the wines below were tasted in various groups, first by themselves and then with a delicious array of cheeses, cold meats, breads and the like; the majority were Austrian specialities just to retain that authentic flavour to the whole enterprise.
Ultimate Wine Company Italian Wine Tasting - 14 wines reviewed.
Continue reading "Ultimate Wine Company Italian Wine Tasting - 14 wines reviewed." »


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