San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004, Tuscany, Italy
Add food and it's like drinking a different wine.
But, I hear the masses yell, that is what Chianti is designed for - drinking with food. It is like a television without an aerial; you can use it but it just doesn't work very well. You know you are missing out on the bigger picture.
Two bottles of this rather decent Chianti have been consumed over the last few days. A Sunday roast of beef and Yorkshires was fine. Further complexity was revealed in the flavour but there remained something lacking.
What the roast lacked was the sweet acidity of tomatoes to balance. Step forward a superbly thrown together lasagne. Combining mince beef, plenty of fresh parsley, a splash of red and a tin of chopped Italian tomatoes the wine shone like a beacon . The wines refreshing acidity makes it all the more drinkable. (I'm also thinking lamb would have been a better match, over beef, with the wines acidity cutting through the inherent fat beautifully).
Wine Tasting Note: San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004, Tuscany, Italy
Stockist: Everywine £257 for 12, Italian Wine Society £15.19 £182.28 for 12 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
A richness of dark cherry fruit leads into a twist of acidic bitterness on the finish. Smooth and robust with hints of leather and mixed herbs. but shines with food. Shown to both Slavonian and French oak barrels which adds complexity. 100% Sangiovese. Alcohol 13%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
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Brief Notes from the Top 100 Vins de Pays 2008
Of the 1,214 samples submitted to the competition tasting there were 520 red wines, 518 white and 176 rosé. Of these wines 14 trophies were awarded to six white wines, one rosé and seven reds.
"So how did the Top 100 pan out this year? As you'd expect, Vin de Pays d'Oc had the largest number in the winners' enclosure, with exactly half the wines selected - although statistically speaking, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne had a better hit rate (15 wines out of 95 entries). "
"The judges were impressed by the diversity and overall quality of the top 100, and most were surprised by what the much criticised 2007 vintage had produced. Most of them singled out rosés as the area of greatest improvement. The Merlots were also a lot better than last year, although several judges felt it was the red blends that really stood out."
From my tasting of the top 100 (not all of the 100 were tried, I should mention) it was the red blends that stood out for me. Stockist information and links are included but most wines are now out of stock; you might be able to secure stocks of follow on vintages.
White Wines
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de la Coche, 2007, VdP du Val de Loire
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
Winner Sauvignon Blanc Trophy. 100% Sauvignon Blanc grown in Retz south of Nantes. 12% Alcohol. Grassy, green aromas. Very pure, gravelly, palate complex hints of orange. Alcohol 12%.
Wine Tasting Note: Rive Haute Sauvignon, 2007, VdP des Côtes de Gascogne
Stockist: Adnams Price: £8.49 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
£8.49 Adnams. Rounder than the previous (south, warmer climes) good, long length. Alcohol 11.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: M&S Grenache Blanc, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Marks and Spencer Price: £5.49 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Grenache Blanc Trophy and Best Wine of Show
Grenache Blanc grown around Carcassonne. Delicious stone-led palate, zesty, lemony, floral hints. A little oak aging adding complexity. 12.5% Alcohol.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine le Roc Anges Les Vieilles Vignes, 2006, VdP des Pyrénées-Orientales
Stockist: Les Caves de Pyréne Price: £11.85 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A blend of Grenache Gris (80%) and Macabeu (20%). Crisp, toasty flavours, orange and lime rind. Excellent length. Alcohol 14%.
Wine Tasting Note: Vignoble Guillaume Chardonnay Collection Réservée, 2004, VdP de Franche-Comté.
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
Chardonnay Trophy Winner. Chardonnay from 28 year-old vines. Honeyed, buttery, peachy palate. Unfiltered. Alcohol 13%.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine L'Hortus Grande Cuvée Blanc, 2006, VdP du Val de Montferrand
Stockist: Les Caves de Pyréne Price: £12.40 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
£12.40
A mix of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Roussanne (5%). Crisp but rounded, full of flavour and great length. Alcohol 13.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Producteurs Vignoble de Gascogne Fleur de Givre Florenbelle, 2007, VdP des Côtes de Gascogne
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £7.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]. - Gros Manseng Trophy Winner
£6.99 Late harvested. Lingering, cleanly fresh, exotic was one word overheard as a description. Alcohol 11.5%.
Red Wines
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Py Merlot, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Price: £5.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
- Merlot Trophy Winner
From a 32ha at the foot of Mont Alaric in the Corbières region. Deeply coloured with a open, straw and blackcurrant and leaves led nose, creamy, rounded, good structure, good price.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Paul Mas La Forge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Price: £7.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
- Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy Winner
Heavy weight bottle, full, rich, lashings of raspberry and blueberry. Great length. Alcohol 13.5%.
Wine Tasting Note: Camplazens Syrah, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Majestic Price: £6.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth] - Syrah Trophy Winner
Deep, deep, colour, wonderful bacon edge aroma, violets and similar on a gorgeous palate. Plenty of cassis laced with inky fruit. Super. Alcohol 13%.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Familongue, Le Carignan de Familongue, 2007, VdP du Mont
Price: £5.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth] - Carignan Trophy Winner
Excellent packaging. 100% Carignan from 50-60 year old vines. Juicy. Not as heavy as the colour would suggest, deeply flavoured.
Wine Tasting Note: Camplazens Marselan, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Majestic Price: £6.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
£6.49 Majestic. Very deeply coloured, nice lifted aromas and a rather tasty, curranty, palate.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de La Jasse Vieilles Vignes, 2006, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: ay and Wheeler Price: £9.95 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Red brick in colour but a lovely balanced palate and lingering flavours.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Phillippe Nusswitz Miratus, 2005, VdP d'Oc
[More on Adegga / Snooth] - Best Red Wine of Show
Striking packaging. Blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre (20%) vines are grown in the foothills of the Cevennes between the Languedoc and the Rhône. Wonderful nose, gorgeous palate, complex but not heavy. Sadly no details of stockists or price.
Fattoira le Sorgenti Respiro Chianti, 2005, Tuscany, Italy
Today I wouldn't have a clue on how to spot a Senesi over a Arentini and, all thse years ago, I'm sure it was all suggestion and imagination rather than a fully-developed palate.
There are seven sub-zones covering Chianti. The heart of the region is Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina lies to the north-east while Chianti Montalbano and four hillside areas are named after near-by cities Colli Fiorentini (Florence), Colli Senesi (Siena), Colli Pisane (Pisa) and Colli Arentini (Arezzo).
This example hails from Colli Fiorentini, a classic blend of Sangiovese with just a splash of the white Trebbiano (2%). The local rules have removed the 'traditional' requirement for a white grape component and allow up to 15% of foreign varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon.
Wine Tasting Note: Le Sorgenti Respiro Chianti , 2005, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Tuscany, Italy
Stockist: Cadman Fine Wines [More on UKWOL] Price: £9.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Upfront tiz mellow and fruity, wood envelopes the rounded pleasantness, then a savoury edge develops with tannins raising and acidity cleansing. A long mellow finish, with an edge of chocolate covered cherries, porcini and something 'autumnal'. Alcohol 13.5%.
Chianti should really be enjoyed with food - the medium-bodied quite acidic wines were created for food. Tomato based dishes are often quoted as ideal matches; my choice would be a rich, slow cooked, Bolognese based pasta dish, as pictured.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
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Willunga Creek Black Duck Cabernet-Merlot, 2005, McLaren Vale, Australia
Wine Tasting Note: Willunga Creek Black Duck Cabernet-Merlot, 2005, McLaren Vale, Australia.
Stockist: Henley Fine Wines [More on UKWOL] Price: £12 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
The tasting note: vibrant blackberries on the nose with slithers mirrored on the palate but coupled with spice and something plummy. Here and here a hint of dark chocolate too. It is not your lightly sweet, easy-drinking Aussie blend - it has much needed complexity and a more sophisticated mouth-feel. Good length too. Alcohol 14.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [ out of 5]
The Cabernet/Merlot is a great quaffer with barbecued meat excellent with confit (twice cooked) duck, Asian style (star anise orange peel and sake in the brew). We actually had the duck recipe in our restaurant which was called Black Satin Duck, we matched it to the Merlot and Cab/Merlot. Duck and Merlot or Cab/Merlot is an excellent duo.
The Willunga Creek Winemaker.
Fattoira le Sorgenti Scirus, 2003, Tuscany, Italy.
Wine Tasting Note: Fattoira le Sorgenti Scirus, 2003, Tuscany, Italy
Stockist: Cadman Fine Wines [More on UKWOL] Price: £24.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Textured and smooth, wonderful richness but balanced. A flow of savoury edged fruit - hints of tomatoes laced with chocolate, raspberries, cherries and other fleshy fruits. Very 'Bordeaux' on the nose - hailing from the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (mixed in a 60%/40% blend) thrown in a little oak.
All rather scrummy, full and rich. Perhaps a tad young and missing a little development and complexity and also a tad short on the finish but highly drinkable. Accompanied that delicious lamb dish beautifully. Alcohol 14.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]
Normally only 8000 bottles are produced annually, however the hot summer of 2003 reduced this to a meagre 6000 bottles, where deft handling, skilled winemaking and the benefit of vineyards at 400 metres have ensured that another outstanding wine has been crafted by Paolo Caciorgna and Le Sorgenti.
This months Wine Blogging Wednesday has, as its theme, 'The Letter S'. Sorgenti Scirus I guess qualifies!
Ses'Fikile Wines, South Africa

Although they don't own their own vineyards the wines are made in conjunction with the winemakers from the Flagstone winery.
Showing a distinct 'estate' character and an over-riding style, the wines come highly recommended. The style encapsulates a new-world level of sweet upfront fruit married with old-world structure - exactly what one should expect from a decent South African wine.
Ses'fikile 'we have arrived'. These three words are built on a foundation of personal and communal struggle, yet they also look forward positively, with the hope of a better tomorrow. Most importantly the words sparkle with a sense of adventure. This is a pioneering exploration of new South African opportunity in one of our most glamorous and exciting industries."
Other wines from Ses'Fikile are listed by Marks and Spencers.
A Dish For Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon
Wine Tasting Note: Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Great Southern, Western Australia
New vintage available soon from Bibendum for £13
They make great play on the 'old vines' description on the rear label. The grapes for this bottle come are sourced from a single estate in Mount Barker (in the Great Southern region) in Western Australia. The vines were planted in 1974 and are therefore 34 years old. Old vines and extra attention in the vineyard results in a higher quality wine, in this case one brimming with wonderful blackberry and bramble flavours laced with a herbal, dark chocolate edge. It is also blessed with a long length and tannins that should see it though for several years. In fact the recommend 5-8 years cellaring. Alcohol 14.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]
It's a touch young at the moment but still a joy to drink. Served with Lamb Baguettes with Fresh Mint Sauce (recipe below) it was a delight. Wareing's sauce is rather sweet and, depending on how much mint you add, quite powerfully flavoured. The sweetness will swamp the wine so use sparingly.
Continue reading "A Dish For Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon" »
Château Tonnelles, 2004, Fronsac, France
Wine Tasting Note: Château Les Tonnelles, 2004, Fronsac, France.
Available from Bordeaux-Undiscovered [more] for £7.99 (normally £11.99) More on: Adegga / Snooth .
Very French (for which read Bordeaux) in style and structure - the aroma has a lovely fruity edge that needs a little teasing (swirl/decant) to really reveal itself - don't forget that aroma offers so much to the overall enjoyment of wine - is that blackcurrant, blackberry, leaves, undergrowth?
The Bordeaux Undiscovered website states that this 'drinks well on it's own' but I disagree - it's a classic French food wine - unless you enjoy hearty tannins - and in that regard is highly recommended with a simple roasted game bird. In this case it is stuffed with herby sausage and served with a potato-parsley-garlic mash and a broad bean puree (the latter left over from the Pappardelle with Broad Beans and Rocket dish).
The wine is 100% Merlot. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]
Continue reading "Château Tonnelles, 2004, Fronsac, France" »
Sparkling Shiraz and Food
The delightful Joanne of Henley Fine Wines popped over the other week, brandishing, as his her want, a couple of bottles of wine - one of which was a sparkling red. The NV Bundaleer Shiraz is one of the prize offering that her small company imports direct.
I really wanted to do this wine justice with its food accompaniment and scoured another new addition - Rick Stein's French Odyssey - for something that would benefit from the bubbles and the red fruit flavours. Step forward Sautéed Lambs Kidneys on Toasted Brioche with Sauvignon Blanc, Mustard and Tarragon!
Bundaleer Sparkling Shiraz, NV, Southern Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Available from Henley Fine Wines [more] for £8.50 More on: Adegga / Snooth
While there is a touch of sweetness it just makes this blackberry flavoured wonder all the more drinkable. Nicely balanced with plenty of classy fizz and good balance. Medium bodied. Alcohol 13.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]
Sautéed Lambs Kidneys on Toasted Brioche with Sauvignon Blanc, Mustard and Tarragon.
Adapted from Rick Stein's French Odyssey [Amazon.co.uk £13]
For one
4 sliced lambs kidneys with white cores removed
Knob of unsalted butter
Large glug of Sauvignon Blanc
¼ tablespoon Dijon mustard
Fresh tarragon
Double cream
2 thick slices of brioche toasted
Melt some butter and fry the kidneys over a high heat for about 2 minutes on each side until lightly browned but still pink in the middle. Remove and keep warm. De-glaze the pan with the wine and reduce. Add the mustard, any free-run juices from the kidneys, chopped tarragon and cream and boil until a nice sauce consistency is reached. Season.
Top the brioche with the kidneys and spoon over the sauce. Garnish with tarragon.
The dish is very rich - all that glorious cream I guess - with the wines bubbles cutting through, leaving the palate refreshed (and hankering for more!). The sweetness of the brioche and the wine matched nicely; I was enjoying the combination so much I failed to notice the tannins. In fact I failed to notice much else until the bottle ran dry!
Domaine de L'Engarran, 2005, VdP d'Oc, France
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine de l'Engarran, 2005 Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
Off the middle shelf at Oddbins for £7.99.
A weighty palate, tight gravelly tannins and a inky-berry led flavour. A touch of sweet fruit, especially on the finish with an edge of black currants. No hints of the leafiness/herbaceousness often associated with Cabernet Franc, perhaps due to the warmer growing conditions down in the Languedoc, but there is a touch of earthiness, another 'sign' of Cabernet Franc. Opens up nicely with an edge of something akin to roses or spiced rose petals. Alcohol 13%. The actual blend is a mix of 46% Cabernet Franc, 40% Grenache, 11% Syrah & 3% Cinsault.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]
Gracing the label (you might just make out from my photo) is a line drawing of a lion devouring a bunch of grapes. As with the other wines from this estate this label detail is taken from statues and details from the house -
In the shrubbery of the "Allée des Lions" stands a sleek, proud and greedy lioness. This statue enjoying its grapes represents tamed strength (of stone... or wine?) and once again the alliance of wine and heritage in the spirit of Engarran."
Combinations - A Wine for Steak and Mushroom Pie
The recipe is another of African Vanielje's creations. I just couldn't face making my own puff pastry (especially as the ready-made stuff is just so good) but followed the instructions pretty well (apart from serving the peas separately). I do wish I had included some kidneys though; the texture contrast, in addition to more depth and complexity to the flavour, makes for an improved dish I believe. That is not to say this version lacked anything!
The wine eventually selected was Italian.
Wine Tasting Note: Caiarossa, 2004, Tuscany, Italy
Available from Berry Brothers for £33
They have packed a massive amount into this bottle - not only the mix of eight grape varieties - but also a heck load of tannin and flavoursome, full, powerful fruit. It benefited from several hours opening (in fact 24 hours!) which then showed so much more on the nose and to the flavour. Delicious, individualistic, complex and very long lasting in flavour. Plentiful tannins mind! Therefore, a food wine. Simply delicious with the Steak and Mushroom pie.
The grape mix is quite amazing too - Merlot (33%), Sangiovese (22%). Its well honed tannic structure is given by the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (18%). There are also small quantities of Petit Verdot (6%), Alicante (3%), Syrah (2%) and Mourvèdre (1%). Alcohol 15%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]
Immersed in nature and its silence, Caiarossa, situated in the heart of the Val di Cecina, on the Tuscan coast, exists within its own area of unspoiled beauty. A winding, country road, keeps the estate hidden, until the final curve when the winery unexpectedly reveals itself, perched on the side of the hill, surrounded by its fourteen hectares of vineyards.The location of this estate is part of its attraction, giving the sensation that one is the first to discover the property. Yet, Caiarossa, with its sensations of subtle luxuriousness, has existed since 1998. Prior to this, there was just the old manor house and the red, gravelly soil after which the estate has been named. What exists today has been created from the land, from nature, from the region's history and the adoption of a philosophy that harmoniously combines the forces of earth, grape and man.
The fruits of this labour are two red IGT Tuscan wines, Caiarossa and Pergolaia. Both unconventional blends in which, despite local tradition, Sangiovese does not play the only leading role. Eleven different grape varieties make up this vineyard, each one planted on an appropriate soil, highlighting the complexity of the land.
For the rest, what shaped Caiarossa was not everyday logic but vision; the desire to create a true oasis in which to live and make wine, the Tuscan dream linking not only beauty and simplicity but also simplicity and value. In 2004 Caiarossa was acquired by Eric Albada Jelgersma, a Dutch entrepreneur with a great passion for wine and also the owner of Château Giscours and Château du Tertre - two Grand Crus classé in Margaux, Bordeaux."
There are currently two Caiarossa wines, both IGT Tuscan reds. This multi-grape wonder is the flagship being a cuvée of the best grapes of the year. The second wine is Pergolaia, and is predominantly Sangiovese, in keeping with the regions' wine-making tradition.
Continue reading "Combinations - A Wine for Steak and Mushroom Pie" »
A Wine for Spring Lamb

I tried out two of Vanielje Kitchen's recipes at the weekend - Loin of Free Range lamb grilled with rosemary and garlic coupled with Oven Baked Potato Slices in Garlic and Rosemary Cream. Heavy on the garlic, heavy on the rosemary. Delicious.
For a wine you need something that will cope with the fat of the lamb in addition to the forceful flavours. Many wines would 'fit the bill' a Chianti perhaps, a Claret or even a Rioja. I went for something a little more unusual - a Spanish wine from the Bierzo region.
I travelled through the area last year but don't recall encountering this particular wine, Martin Sarmiento, made by Martin Códax.
Martín Sarmiento was an 18th century Galician monk famed for his studies on botany and agriculture. Part of his signature appears on the label.
Wine Tasting Note: Martin Códax Martín Sarmiento, 2004, Bierzo, Spain.
Waitrose £8.99
A tough one on its own. Forcefully flavoured high is acidity and not insubstantial on the tannin front either. As they say 'a food wine'. With the lamb it shines; is gorgeous in fact. The acidity cutting through the richness of the meat and the cream. Coming in with 14% alcohol. The rear label states that 22,000 bottles were produced from this vintage made under the direction of Ignacio de Miguel, winemaker of the year 2006.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]
Tendral Crianza 2004, Priorato, Spain
Available from Tesco for £7.99
Not bad this, not bad at all. Trying it blind it just hollas to you that this comes from Spain. Which is exactly what you want in a wine - regional typicality; even more of a requirement when made from Shiraz. OK, so there is also Grenacha and Mazuelo, in the blend too that imparts that needed Spanishness but Shiraz can be so 'international' that you find wines, although a decent enough drink, that could really come from anywhere. Not so in this example.
A superb mouth-feel and nice structure and, as I often say, is really made for food, but not, as can be the case, because of any excessive tannins or acidity. In this case the combination of balanced tannins and fruit just sing when partnered with food - roast lamb perhaps?
Overall nicely flavoured with plenty of scrummy dark black fruits, savoury hints, raspberry freshness and a dusty Spanish tang. Alcohol 13.5%
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]
Grown and then vinified at the Cellers Unió state-of-the-art winery in Poboleda under the quality-focused care of Pere Escudé, this wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks at 25°C, followed by a process of malolactic fermentation. It is then transferred to 300 litre American and French oak casks and spends one year in oak barrels before bottling.At Besós we pride ourselves on the quality of all our wines. In our view, this is without doubt the best value Priorat wine in the UK market, a fantastic example of this beautiful and expressive region."
Campbells The Barkly Durif, 1997, Rutherglen, Australia
Guys and Gals, it was well worth waiting for - the match with Oven Roasted Partridge was sensational!
The locally shot brace (brought from the covered market in Oxford) was subjected to a Slater recipe (Roast Partridge with juniper and thyme) from a November issue of the Observer Magazine and was served with Brussels Sprouts stir-fried with Chestnuts and Pork Chipolatas and huge amounts of bread sauce. Simply delicious.
Wine Tasting Note: Campbells The Barkly Durif, 1997, Rutherglen, Australia.
This vintage purchased from Cooden Cellars [more] for £15.99.
Full-bodied, ripe but with a good structure. Nice tannic backbone supporting the red berry fruit with a complexity of dusty spice, a cherry edge, inky depths and a plummy whole. A long lasting, chocolaty almost port-like finish. The acidity is still lively and balancing. Good length to boot.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100 [4.5 out of 5]
The 2003 seems to be the vintage currently available in the UK and one that is highly recommended for placing in your cellar for 5 plus years. As soon as funds become available I'll be buying!
Durif is an extremely rare variety first propagated by Dr Durif in the Rhone Valley of France in the 1880's. It is now virtually extinct in France. It arrived in Rutherglen in the early 1900's and has become synonymous with the region. Its unique qualities have been recognised by other Australian producers and plantings are increasing throughout Australia.
We have experimented and refined our techniques for handling durif over several decades. In 1992 we introduced The Barkly Durif, the ultimate expression of this variety. Only the very best parcels of fruit from good vintages are used and the resultant wine is carefully aged in a mix of oak barrels, both old and new,
from France, Germany and America."
Wine Tasting Note: Bolla Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 2004, Veneto, Italy
Available from Sainsburys for £16.99
An absolute age since I've sampled, let alone drank, an Amarone - so a joy to receive this last week. Has a gorgeous combination of richness, powerful structure, and ripe raisined fruit but also a dry, food-hugging, savoury finish. Nicely structured, good concentration, warm with crushed raisined fruit. Intense, herb-edged. As a substantial wine it requires substantial food to pair well making it a perfect wine for the winter months.
A blend of Corvina and Corvinone with a little Rondinella. Alcohol 15%. Plenty of potential to age in bottle.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]
The process used to make Amarone involves dried grapes and slow fermentation. The cooler climate of Veneto produces lighter, softer red wines to gain extra depth and flavour the grapes are partially dried before the wine making crush. This process gives some real oomph in comparison to a more basic Valpolicella, higher alcohol and a more intense experience over-all.
Six Things About Amarone della Valpolicalla
- The word Amarone comes from the Veronese dialect; it means dry.
- The definition comes from the comparison with the Recioto, a sweet wine produced in Valpolicella with the same grapes and using the same vinification technique, but leaving a much higher amount of residual sugar.
- The grapes used are the same as those in DOC Valpolicella, even if the percentage of Corvina is higher; however, unlike Valpolicella, Amarone is made exclusively from selected grapes grown on dedicated vineyards with the best micro-climate, sun exposure and soil type.
- The grapes are picked and then arranged on flat drawers that easily fit into racks (or wooden cases), allowing a good circulation of air. It is very important that they be kept in a dry, cool, well-ventilated room.
- In years past, bamboo, straw mats, or trellises were used to dry the grapes. The grapes are cleaned and turned about every 20 days and are constantly inspected during the four-month natural drying period.
- This drying period causes a 40% loss of juice, resulting in grapes low in juice but extremely high in sugar and varietal character.
Wine Tasting Note: Bodegas Añadas CARE Cabernet/Garnacha/Merlot Crianza, 2003, Cariñena, Spain
Living equidistant between the university city and Reading, as I do, Oxford wins every-time. Reading is something of a culinary dessert. True you have Smelly Alley with a couple of grocers, a fish monger and a butcher, a decent deli down by the Church and a Carluccio's hidden away behind the Court buildings but all this pales in comparison with Oxford's Covered Market.
I went there yesterday. Lunch was a tasty, meat-packed pie from the Pie Minister and an urge for something sweet sedated by a slice of freshly baked flapjack from one of the many delis.In the bag went onions and potatoes from the fruit and veg man and a brace of plump partridges (two pence under a fiver) from M Feller, Son and Daughter. What the market lacks though is an independent wine merchant; one of the few remaining Oddbins opposite acted as a handy substitute. I came away with a funkily packaged Spanish red to accompany said partridges.
The birds were cooked as per a recipe from Slater's Kitchen Diaries with Spanish sausage substituting for the Italian he recommended. (Sausage briskly fried in a pot with a little oil, chopped onions added and softened. Partridges browned in the same pot before the addition of 500ml chicken stock, a splash of the red and a bay leaf. Popped into the oven, covered, for half an hour).
They were served with a simple salad of fresh spinach and toasted walnuts plus homemade wholemeal bread to mop up the sauce. Most satisfying.
Doubly delicious when served with the Oddbins red - CARE Cabernet/Garnacha/Merlot.
Wine Tasting Note: Bodegas Añadas CARE Cabernet/Garnacha/Merlot Crianza, 2003, Cariñena, Spain.
Oddbins for £8.49.
First reactions - not very 'Spanish', rather new worldy in style. Soft tannins, smooth, full-bodied, oak hardily evident. Black-fruits and damsons. The blend retains a smidgen Spanishness with the Garnacha component. Tasty indeed and certainly worth the asking price. Alcohol a noticeable 14%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]
Wine Tasting Note: Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, 2004, Western Australia
Enthusiastic hyperbole aside it is a lovely wine. Still youthful but drinking beautifully. Price? Around £25 I believe.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100 [4.25 out of 5]
This wine was made from low yielding old vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes grown in the Great Southern and Margaret River from the outstanding 2004 vintage. It was fermented in small open topped stainless steel tanks. Twice daily aerative pumpovers aided the developement of mature tannin. The wine was matured in 100% new French oak barriques for 20 months producing a wine with the textural complexity that will reward cellaring."
Despite the indications in the photograph you don't actually require a corkscrew. This wine is sealed with a screwcap.
Wine Tasting Note: Penny's Hill McLaren Vale Footprint Shiraz, 2004, Australia
Two burgers. A little posh perhaps being Tesco's finest (beef with sun-dried tomatoes), but nothing you could call gourmet. Each is sandwiched between two slices of plain white Warburton's bread.
A couple of salad leaves, two slices of tomato in each, two torn basil leaves and a dollop of Hellmans mayo. Oh, and a slice of cheddar strategically placed in the burger to melt slightly as the top layer of bread is pressed down - forcing a squidge of mayo and a few tomato pips down the side of the sarnie.
I'm outside, enjoying the garden of my childhood home as I house-sit for the parents. This really is the most beautiful part of the Chilterns. The weather is warm, slightly muggy. A wood-pigeon is cooing in the wood and I've just knocked over a glass of the most gorgeous, perfect-accompaniment to a cheap, knocked together burger, you can imagine: Penny's Hill McLaren Vale Footprint Shiraz, 2004. A silky smooth mass of blackberries and blueberries, a little vanilla, a touch of mineral complexity and a ripe, gently tannic finish.
Retails for about £28. Perfect.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Richaud Cairanne, 2003, Cotes du Rhone Village, France.
This is exactly what Chateau Petrogasm has been doing since is inception last June; offering wine tasting notes using "colors, sketches, photography, and other visual media". An interesting concept that many of those I contacted embracing the idea with passion. Traditionalists are going to hate it and it does have its limitations, hence my struggle.
Can you really encapsulated all the nuances of colour, aroma, taste and texture in one single image? I'm not convinced you can. One aspect perhaps over all others - but which to single out to encapsulate the 'whole' of something very sensual? My attempt here is trying to show the depth and silky richness of a Cairanne; chocolate, plums, a meaty edge, dark, moody. (An explanation should not have been necessary!) Others have had more success -
CorkDork with a Cigar Box Guitar for a Californian Cabernet Sauvignon.
Surf4Wine with a gravel and cold steel rendition of a Chablis.
GrapeJuice has a reclining decadent smoking woman for a Costières de Nîmes.
WineCast goes for a market stall dedecked with fruit for an Albarinho.
Cooksister has peaches in a glass for a Riesling.
Hats off to Chateau Petrogasm for stimulating the debate. Perhaps GrapeJuice sums it up best using one single word - 'irreverant'; maybe that is what the wine blogging arena should be.
Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Richaud Cairanne, 2003, Cotes du Rhone Village, France.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100 [4.25 out of 5]
Bordeaux Oxygene - Some Recommendations
Established in late 2005 Bordeaux Oxygène is a dynamic group of young producers and château owners who are determined to inject some passion and excitement into the world of Bordeaux wines.
The group focuses on the marketing and promotion of Bordeaux wines and tries to do things totally differently to the 'established' ways - many of the group inherited their estates from their parents; their youth means they aim to increase their wines appeal to younger wine drinkers.
Sadly no prices or stockists for the wines listed below; you should harass your local wine merchant to source some of these for you. The quality is top notch.
Continue reading "Bordeaux Oxygene - Some Recommendations" »
Wine Tasting Note: Mas de la Seranne, 2003, Coteaux du Languedoc, France.

Available from Pic Wines for £14.30. [more]
A little duck roasting in the oven, smothered with my runny quince jelly, and this deeply coloured red breathing in the decanter. A fine evening in the offering.
Aroma is rich, slightly savoury and deep with a medley of squished fruits. Enticing. On the palate, an explosion of flavours brushed up against a red berry fruit acidity that slices though the richness of stewed fruits and tobacco. All this laced with a veneer of spices and a rustic earthiness. Alcohol 14%. Syrah (40%), Mourvèdre (27%), Grenache Noir (23%), Carignan (10%).
The duck was served with a curry spice-spiked yoghurt dip and basmati rice studded with almonds. The yoghurt brought out a delicious creamy edge in the wine with the curry spices edge emphasising similar flavours in the wine. An excellent combination.


