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Good With Seafood - Bodegas Fariña Malvasia, 2007, Toro, Spain (2)
Vino Vangelist wrote: When you get the right wine to complement a sea food di... [read more]

Brief Notes from the Top 100 Vins de Pays 2008 (1)
Dylan wrote: Thanks for the tasting notes. I appreciate it when I ca... [read more]

Caldora Colle dei Venti Pecorino 2007, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy (2)
Demetria wrote: I love wine from this district and Italy in general. ... [read more]

Quinta de Covela Escolha, 2005, Minho, Portugal (3)
Nappy Rash wrote: I totally love this one and am in danger of becoming ad... [read more]

Wine Dinner - the wines of Howard Park, Australia Matching Food and Wine - wine with a lamb stew
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Good With Seafood - Bodegas Fariña Malvasia, 2007, Toro, Spain

Bodegas Farina Malvasia 2007, Toro, Spain
A recurring event - a wine that ranks as 'just fine' by itself is raised in ones estimation when coupled with food. This nicely weighty white from Spain is another such example where a succesful match brings added pleasure to a meal.

White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Bodegas Fariña Malvasia, 2007, Toro, Spain.
Stockist: dunno [More: Adegga / Snooth]

A light simple nose - a touch of herbs, a smidge of yeast and a layer of lemon. More activity on the palate though with a gentle lemony start giving way to a sherbet, grapefruity palate and a tang of acidity. Pleasant enough and very drinkable but seldom is Malvasia ever going to knock yer socks into a cocked-hat (or something). Unoaked. Alcohol 12.5%.

Its clean, fresh crispness was a joy though with some crispy Calamari rings dunked in mayonnaise. While the squid wasn't the best - it was frozen rather than fresh and certainly not as good as the mammoth sized rings myself and Douglas devoured with passion at a local Italian last week - but the wine worked wonders. When they say 'good with seafood' this partnership is what they have in mind.


Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]


By way of proving that I don't just make these food and wine matches up, a picture of the very same calamari. And yes, they were cold by the time I had finished taking pictures!

Calamari

A Not Too Sweet Dessert Wine - Farina Val de Reyas 2005

Farina Val de Reyas 2005Designed as an aperitif the Farina Val de Reyes Vino Semi-Dulce is recommended with foie gras, pates and soft cheeses. Back in May of 2007 a bottle (of the previous vintage, 2004) was matched with delicious results with a Melon, Pecorino and Culatello Anti-Pasti.

A requirement for a wine to accompany Little Windfall Apple Tarts resulted in this being opened as a proper dessert wine.



Dessert  Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Fariña Val de Reyes, 2005, Castilla y Leon, Spain
[More: Adegga / Snooth]

The Botrytis effected Moscatel is really evident on the aroma with hints of orange, honey, pear and a heady honeysuckle edge. Is it the botrytis that gives that nice weight to the palate in addition to the sweetness? A good long spicy finish is clean and fresh from the citric acidity. Behind that spice is there a dimension not too dissimilar to that of autumn - well-kept apples, damp leaves, wild mushrooms and all? Alcohol 13%.

It is not a rich, sickly dessert wine being more fresh and lively than many. With the Little Windfall Apple Tarts it was rather scrummy with a lemon dimension matching the tarts lemon curd. With desserts you need the wine to be sweeter than the food; this match worked perfectly.

Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]

Continue reading "A Not Too Sweet Dessert Wine - Farina Val de Reyas 2005" »

Brief Notes from the Top 100 Vins de Pays 2008

2008 Top 100 Vin de Pays Wines
Brief notes scribbled at the London International Wine and Spirits Fair in Excel of the Top 100 Vins de Pays 2008.

Of the 1,214 samples submitted to the competition tasting there were 520 red wines, 518 white and 176 rosé. Of these wines 14 trophies were awarded to six white wines, one rosé and seven reds.

"So how did the Top 100 pan out this year? As you'd expect, Vin de Pays d'Oc had the largest number in the winners' enclosure, with exactly half the wines selected - although statistically speaking, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne had a better hit rate (15 wines out of 95 entries). "
"The judges were impressed by the diversity and overall quality of the top 100, and most were surprised by what the much criticised 2007 vintage had produced. Most of them singled out rosés as the area of greatest improvement. The Merlots were also a lot better than last year, although several judges felt it was the red blends that really stood out."

From my tasting of the top 100 (not all of the 100 were tried, I should mention) it was the red blends that stood out for me. Stockist information and links are included but most wines are now out of stock; you might be able to secure stocks of follow on vintages.

White Wines

White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine de la Coche, 2007, VdP du Val de Loire
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
Winner Sauvignon Blanc Trophy. 100% Sauvignon Blanc grown in Retz south of Nantes. 12% Alcohol. Grassy, green aromas. Very pure, gravelly, palate complex hints of orange. Alcohol 12%.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Rive Haute Sauvignon, 2007, VdP des Côtes de Gascogne
Stockist: Adnams Price: £8.49 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
£8.49 Adnams. Rounder than the previous (south, warmer climes) good, long length. Alcohol 11.5%.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: M&S Grenache Blanc, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Marks and Spencer Price: £5.49 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Grenache Blanc Trophy and Best Wine of Show
Grenache Blanc grown around Carcassonne. Delicious stone-led palate, zesty, lemony, floral hints. A little oak aging adding complexity. 12.5% Alcohol.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine le Roc Anges Les Vieilles Vignes, 2006, VdP des Pyrénées-Orientales
Stockist: Les Caves de Pyréne Price: £11.85 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
A blend of Grenache Gris (80%) and Macabeu (20%). Crisp, toasty flavours, orange and lime rind. Excellent length. Alcohol 14%.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Vignoble Guillaume Chardonnay Collection Réservée, 2004, VdP de Franche-Comté.
[More: Adegga / Snooth]
Chardonnay Trophy Winner. Chardonnay from 28 year-old vines. Honeyed, buttery, peachy palate. Unfiltered. Alcohol 13%.



White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine L'Hortus Grande Cuvée Blanc, 2006, VdP du Val de Montferrand
Stockist: Les Caves de Pyréne Price: £12.40 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
£12.40
A mix of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Roussanne (5%). Crisp but rounded, full of flavour and great length. Alcohol 13.5%.


White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Producteurs Vignoble de Gascogne Fleur de Givre Florenbelle, 2007, VdP des Côtes de Gascogne
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £7.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]. - Gros Manseng Trophy Winner
£6.99 Late harvested. Lingering, cleanly fresh, exotic was one word overheard as a description. Alcohol 11.5%.

Red Wines

Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine Py Merlot, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Price: £5.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
- Merlot Trophy Winner
From a 32ha at the foot of Mont Alaric in the Corbières region. Deeply coloured with a open, straw and blackcurrant and leaves led nose, creamy, rounded, good structure, good price.


Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine Paul Mas La Forge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Price: £7.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
- Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy Winner
Heavy weight bottle, full, rich, lashings of raspberry and blueberry. Great length. Alcohol 13.5%.



Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Camplazens Syrah, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Majestic Price: £6.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth] - Syrah Trophy Winner
Deep, deep, colour, wonderful bacon edge aroma, violets and similar on a gorgeous palate. Plenty of cassis laced with inky fruit. Super. Alcohol 13%.


Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine Familongue, Le Carignan de Familongue, 2007, VdP du Mont
Price: £5.99 [More on Adegga / Snooth] - Carignan Trophy Winner
Excellent packaging. 100% Carignan from 50-60 year old vines. Juicy. Not as heavy as the colour would suggest, deeply flavoured.



Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Camplazens Marselan, 2007, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: Majestic Price: £6.49 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
£6.49 Majestic. Very deeply coloured, nice lifted aromas and a rather tasty, curranty, palate.



Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine de La Jasse Vieilles Vignes, 2006, VdP d'Oc
Stockist: ay and Wheeler Price: £9.95 [More on Adegga / Snooth]
Red brick in colour but a lovely balanced palate and lingering flavours.



Red Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Domaine Phillippe Nusswitz Miratus, 2005, VdP d'Oc
[More on Adegga / Snooth] - Best Red Wine of Show
Striking packaging. Blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre (20%) vines are grown in the foothills of the Cevennes between the Languedoc and the Rhône. Wonderful nose, gorgeous palate, complex but not heavy. Sadly no details of stockists or price.


Caldora Colle dei Venti Pecorino 2007, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy

Caldora Colle dei Venti Pecorino 2007, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy
An old envelope, rescued from the recycling, with a few scribbles on the reverse; the initial notes before transfer to the main, missing, tasting note book. So basically a few words on a Pecorino and a reference to the book where the accompanying food recipe was taken. Enough info for a blog post (just) especially as the photo has been lounging in the computers photograph folder for an age...




White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Caldora Colle dei Venti Pecorino, 2007, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy..
Stockist: Planet of the Grapes Bon Coeur Fine Wines Price: around £10 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Lemons, nectarines, minerals, lime rind, orange pith, fresh, clean and quite full. Summery. Long lasting, dry, interesting, complex. Delicious. Alcohol 13%

A superb match with the Ricotta-stuffed Chicken with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce (recipe below).

Sadly the notes neglect to mention who supplied this bottle - it was neither of the stockists listed. It might even have been Waitrose.


Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]


Pecorino, the grape variety, is so named due to the resemblance of the grape bunches to a head of a sheep and has nothing to do with the cheese. Colle dei Venti translates as the Hill of Breeze.

Continue reading "Caldora Colle dei Venti Pecorino 2007, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy" »

Quinta de Covela Escolha, 2005, Minho, Portugal

Quinta de Covela Escolha 2005 Minho, Portugal
Many will realise, may even respect, my ongoing search for the unusual wine - the striking label, the interesting blend or individual grape, the obscure region... While the label can't really be described as attractive, stylish perhaps in hip and happening down-town Lisbon circa 1980, the blend is the thing with the Covela 2005. Take a little Chardonnay, pour into a vat of the local Avesso and add 'others' (which the Waitrose website details as Gewürztraminer).

Avesso is a Vinho Verde grape; so one would expect a high level of acidity. The region this comes from, Minho, is also where Vinho Verde originates.



White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Quinta de Covela Escolha, 2005, Minho, Portugal.
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £9.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
An upfront crispness, a weighty Chardonnay-led, mid-palate and a minerally 'wet stones' finish. Add the complex flavours of unripened pears, a touch of greenness, a little lemon, a hint of sandpaper and plenty of tropical fruit medley and the result is the delicious Covela. Dry and full. Alcohol 13.5%.

Scribblings Rating - 94/100 [4.25 out of 5]

The other joy of this wine malarkey is matching these interesting and tasty wines with food. Here I suggest Breast of Chicken with Pancetta and Creamed Leeks - where the wines acidity counters the creamy richness. Chardonnay is very chicken-friendly; just ensure they are free-range and they will get along brilliantly!

Alsace Wine with Food - thoughts from the Hugel Twitter Tasting

A pleasant way to spend a couple of hours - delving through recipes from books and magazines with the aim of matching 5 dishes to 5 different wines. These were all white wines from the Hugel stable in Alsace ready for the Twitter Tasting organised in America but stretching across to these shores and down to France with Etienne Hugel himself participating.

With each course to be as simple as possible a couple of matches were easy: with the Gewürztraminer a foie gras (with toast and a little fig chutney) and with the Pinot Blanc an Alsace speciality (or the closest we could locate) an onion tart. I read somewhere that coconut macaroons were a sensational match to sweet Gewürztraminers, so that was the final dish sorted which left a course for the mixed grape blend and another for a top-notch Riesling. The host, Rob, insisted on a pork dish and I came up with Pork Medallions with Mustard Mash with Apple and a Cider Reduction. A triumphant match as it transpired. Scallops from Borough Market formed the opening course; which I was unexpectedly asked to cook!

A few shavings of fresh ginger, a little garlic, slithers of a mild, fresh red chilli and a sprinkling of dried coriander were added to the pan before the scallops turned rubbery. A splosh of white wine and a pinch of pepper, a quick shake of the pan and a squeeze of lemon and then out to the expectant guests. To be honest I thought I had overdone the spice but nods all round seemed to indicate a success!

Twitter Tasting - table

Continue reading "Alsace Wine with Food - thoughts from the Hugel Twitter Tasting" »

La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica, 2006, Marche, Italy

La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica 2006 Marche Italy
A wine for a damn-decent-if-I-may-say-so seafood risotto. Waitrose have this new(ish) deli range; one item of which is a tub of mixed seafood in a herbed olive oil. Rather tasty I must say. Mixed in with a decently flavoured risotto it makes for a superb meal. An Italian wine to accompany, obviously, and you can't go wrong with this bottle also available from Waitrose.



White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica, 2006, Marche, Italy.
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £7.99 [More: Adegga / Snooth]
Wonderful deep golden colour, none of your wishy-washy, thin, bland Italian whites here thank you very much. Not much to the floral aroma but a weighty palate that matches wonderfully with the food. Flavours are laced with a touch of honey, a minerally texture, and plenty of stony fruit that power right through to the herby finish. Refreshingly crisp acidity on the finish. Elegant.
Alcohol 13.5%.

Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]

100% hand-picked Verdicchio grapes from a great estate in the upper Esino Valley. The difference between Verdicchio grown just a stones roll from Umbria and that grown down near the coast (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi) is substantial. In the highlands the climate is cooler, the growing season longer and slower. Down by the coast the Adriatic plays a part with harvesting often 10 days earlier than those nearer the Apennines.

Clos des Rochers Pinot Blanc, 2006, Moselle, Luxembourg

Domaine Clos Des Rochers Pinot Blanc 2006. LuxembourgLike I real clot I've forgotten to mix in the spinach. Having just spent ten minutes washing and dry-frying it there really isn't any excuse (I can hardly claim jet - lag) apart from being an idiot of course. With the pies half way through cooking it's a touch late in trying to add the 'vital' ingredient!

The Spinach and Feta Pies with Toasted Pine Nuts, with the recipe in yesterdays Sunday Times, were selected specifically to accompany this interesting wine I picked up in Waitrose. A Pinot Blanc from Luxembourg of all places.

Unaware that Luxembourg actually produced wine in exportable quantities it is quite a find; hearty back-slaps and raucous cheering for the Waitrose team who tracked it down.



White Wine Review/Tasting NoteWine Tasting Note: Clos des Rochers Pinot Blanc, 2006, Moselle, Luxembourg
Stockist: Waitrose Price: £8.99 [More Adegga / Snooth]
A spritz to the creamy, full-ish, palate. While weighty there is also a delicacy to the fruit and texture. A touch of lime, a smear of pear, a little apple and, on the finish, a subtle nuttiness and a creamy texture. Just a hint of sweetness I think.

In style a cross between Alsace and German; picking the best bits from each! Must be the first wine from Luxembourg I have tried. Very enjoyable it was too - both on its own and with the Spinach and Feta Pies with Toasted Pine Nuts.

Alcohol 12%.

Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]





Bellingham The Maverick Winemaker Chenin Blanc, 2007, Coastal Region, South Africa

Bellingham Maverick Winemaker Chenin Blanc 2007No great debate in selecting a wine to accompany a Lentil and Bean Salad with a Chive Dressing - a Sauvignon Blanc would have been an obvious choice but I fancied something a little different. Thoughts of cress aromas sometimes discovered in Chenin's led the way to this little beaut from South Africa. With the food a great success.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Bellingham The Maverick Winemaker Chenin Blanc, 2007, Coastal Region, South Africa.
Available from Waitrose for £8.99.
One of the most perfectly balanced and gorgeous Chenin's it has ever been my pleasure to drink. Some lovely complex flavours going on in the full-bodied palate. 'Lavishly refined'. A creamy element combines with spicy, tropical fruit flavours and a long aftertaste. All good Chenin's have the capacity to age, this should do wonders with a little time in bottle. Alcohol 14.5%. (No cress! Very disappointing; but superb with the salad)
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]

To his friends and family, he was 'Pod', (Bernard Podlashuk, founder of Bellingham) but to the cape winelands he was the Maverick Winemaker. Never quite satisfied to be just ordinary, he is recognised for his daring version, sheer audacity and unabated drive that helped place South African wine on the map."


The previous vintage of Bellingham The Maverick Chenin Blanc 2006 was placed second in a recent Wine Magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge. Out of 122 wines only 34 went through to the second round and only 6 were chosen as finalists. The 2006 is still listed at Waitrose Wine Online.

Fortnum and Mason Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, Martinborough, New Zealand

Fortnum and Mason Sauvignon BlancIt seems an anathema mentioning own-label and Fortnums in the same sentence. You really can't get any more up-market than the famous London department store but like every major perveyour of alcohol they do offer own-label products.

I've yet to get to see the newly revamped, and critically acclaimed, Food Hall. This is where, I assume, the wine department is located and where you pick up a bottle of this beautiful Sauvignon.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Fortnum and Mason Martinborough Sauvigon Blanc, 2007, Martinborough, New Zealand
Available from Fortnum and Mason for £10.50.
Like all own-label wines someone (other than the seller) has to produce it; in this case step forward the talents of Alana Estate. in short this is vibrant, juicy, pure and delicious! There are edges of red peppers (capsicum) to the nose and a streak of minerality running though, the nicely complex, palate. Hints of passion fruit, herbs and un-ripened pears can all be found.

It's a text book New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and worth every posh penny.
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]


Protero Viognier and Chardonnay

Protero Viognier and ChardonnayTwo stonkingly great wines to start the week - both whites and both from the same producer.

I brought six different wines from Cooden Cellars a few weeks before Christmas, these two join the stunning Durif under a 'must buy' heading!

Can't say a lot of effort has gone into the packaging though.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Protero Gumeracha Viognier, 2005, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
£9.99 Very Limited Stocks from Cooden Cellars [more]
Incredible. Real power on the palate - full of flavour but balanced by great acidity, long, long lasting flavour. Intense flavours combining nuts, apricot kernals, pear, a quality oak influence, a lemon twist. A wonderful hazelnut finish. Weight, texture, length and balance - what more do you need?
Alcohol 14.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 96/100 [4.5 out of 5]


White WineWine Tasting Note: Protero Gumeracha Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia.
£9.99 Very Limited Stocks from Cooden Cellars [more]
Limey nose, complex with hints of melon. A full-on lime edge to the palate with sherbet, stone fruits and a smidgeon of herbaceousness. Pears too. Good concentration on the palate with a buttery finish. Unoaked. reat length. Alcohol 14.5%
Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]

Protero vineyard lies on a stony ridge to the east of the road between the historic towns of Gumeracha and Lobethal in the Adelaide Hills.

We say historic with some wry irony: while the Silesian refugees settled these towns some time ago, they were a mere one or two billion years after the PROTEROZOIC geological epoch, during which the oldest basement stones of our ridge were formed. From the greatly-weathered remnants of these stones, comes some of our soil.

Proterozoic literally means "former life" or "the life which came first", referring to the fact that during this tumultuous age, which stretched from 570 million years back to 2.6 billion years, the first types of multi-cellular life began to form. In contrast, the famous Kimmeridgean chalks below, say, Chablis, are 60 million years old."



Protero Wines

Two Own Label Wines from the Wine Society

wine society own label White WineWine Tasting Note: The Society's Australian Semillon-Sauvignon-Blanc, 2006, Western Australia. Wine Society Own Label £6.50

I dunno; this was nice enough - perfectly drinkable form one of the top producers in WA it just seemed o lack a little something. Balance, simple rounded flavours, crisp acidity but lacking in a little something. Unoaked and gentle, a pleasant enough drink at a reasonably good price.

This classic blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc has become a speciality of Western Australia, the broad texture of Semillon is perfectly balanced by the zesty tropical fruit of Sauvignon Blanc. Unoaked and full of flavour, this a lovely wine to enjoy with friends."

Produced and bottled by Plantagenet Wines. 12% Alcohol.


Scribblings Rating - 84/100 [3 out of 5]


White WineWine Tasting Note: The Society's New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, New Zealand.
Wine Society Own Label £8.50

This is much more like it - zesty, punchy aromas following through on the palate. Super grassy, herb and gooseberry exuberance that you expect from a decent Marlborough Sauvignon. It compares well with similar wines and hits the right price point too.

Unoaked this wine is aromatic, zesty full of flavour and highly refreshing. A classic partner for fish and chips, Thai-style dishes and goats cheese salads or equally good on its own."

Produced and bottled by Villa Maria Estate, New Zealand. Alcohol 12%

Scribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]


Wine Tasting Note: Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve, 2006, Alsace, France

Wine Tasting Note: Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve, 2006, Alsace, FranceAlways amazing how few people consider Alsace when selecting their wines. OK, so they come in those suspiciously Germanic-looking bottles (with all those negative associations) but at least they have the grape variety on the label. Maybe Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are too closely related to the poorer quality (generally) of Pinot Grigio.

This superb Pinot Gris is certainly not a Pinot Grigio!

White WineWine Tasting Note: Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve, 2006, Alsace, France.
Available from Waitrose for £7.99 (£6.64 online).


Weighty - a little sweetness perhaps - but a dry finish. Honeyed with a hint of greenness in the lightly spiced, musky palate. Delicate and stylish. Apple and quince flavours with a nutmeg edge apparent.

Highly recommended with chicken (flambéed with Apple Brandy) served with a rich cream sauce mixed with butter-fried apples, topped with a little grated nutmeg to emphasise the flavour in the wine. Absolutely delicious. With he acidity cutting through the cream, the flavours of spice and apple complimenting each other the whole match worked wonderfully. Even the steamed green beans served with the chicken worked, with a little green complexity appearing.


Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]

Wine Tasting Note: Laporte Le Bouquet de Laporte Sauvignon 2005, Loire, France

laporte_sauvignon_blanc.jpgwhite wine: laporte le bouquet sauvignon blancLaporte Le Bouquet de Laporte Sauvignon 2005, Loire, France WineRack/Threshers £6.99

Not hugely aromatic, despite the rear labels claim of a 'enticing gooseberry and lime aroma'. The palate though is rather good, with a strawberry complexity to the apple, melon and sweet lime flavours. A dry finish, good long nettley length, medium-weight, good balance and a mineral-edged, if soft, texture.

A perfectly cooked risotto - creamy, delicately flavoured with fresh herbs, a little bite remaining to each individual grain of rice, enlivened with pan-fried leeks and topped with slices of slowly melting Goats Cheese. Sauvignon Blanc and Goat's Cheese: a 'tried and tested' classic combination, confirmed by this sublime food and wine pairing. (A full recipe for the risotto is in the September issue of Delicious magazine).

Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]


Continue reading "Wine Tasting Note: Laporte Le Bouquet de Laporte Sauvignon 2005, Loire, France" »

Devaux Ultra D Champagne

Devaux_Ultra_D_Champagne.jpgChampagne/Sparkling Wine Wine Tasting Note: Devaux Ultra D Champagne, NV, Champagne, France.
Available from independents and Surf4Wine £43.50.
Is this the 'ultimate food champagne' as the producers claim? Not far from the truth to be honest. It has an intense combination of maturity and freshness. Elegant, complex with a delicate finish. At a recent function I attended it was served with a mix of Canapés: Crostini with Seared Salmon and Pickled Cucumber, Foie Gras Mousse with Peppered Pineapple (delicious) and Feta Cheese and Red Onion Marmalade Filo Parcel.

A superb match to all. I was well impressed!

Surprised at being served North Sea Cod for the main lunch course - I thought it was so endangered it was no longer being eaten - I managed to snaffle another glass of the Devaux to try alongside. The flavours were totally different than with the Canapés, no doubt altered with the wilted Spinach and Mussel Broth served alongside. A different complexity entirely and just as delicious.

Stylishly packaged with a minimum of 5 years bottle ageing. A mix of Pinot Noir (66%) and Chardonnay (34%).


Scribblings Rating - 92/100 [4 out of 5]

Wine Tasting Note: Franz Haas Manna, 2005, Alto Adige, Italy

Franz Haas MannaA wine tasting session to select new additions to a merchants list. The Italian white wine section was looking a little drab, unexciting and neglected. This gorgeous white stood out. Not cheap mind.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Franz Haas Manna, 2005, Alto Adige, Italy.
Around £18 a bottle.
Not sure what the grape varieties are in this - Gewürztraminer for sure, as the nose has a delicious edge of lychees and Turkish Delight. But there is more here - a rounded edge, a touch of oak perhaps? Delicious with weight, concentration, refinement and class.

There could be some Riesling in the blend, maybe something weighty like a Chardonnay. Whatever it all combines into a superbly interesting wine. Alcohol 13.5%.

Franz is notoriously difficult to please when it comes to his own wines. This dissatisfaction manifests itself in levels of angst that wouldn't be out of place in a Russian novel. But it also produces wines of rare purity and balance, such is his desire to grow good grapes and preserve the flavours during winemaking. "


Scribblings Rating - 94/100 [4.25 out of 5]

Bordeaux Oxygene - Some Recommendations

Bordeaux OxygèneEstablished in late 2005 Bordeaux Oxygène is a dynamic group of young producers and château owners who are determined to inject some passion and excitement into the world of Bordeaux wines.

The group focuses on the marketing and promotion of Bordeaux wines and tries to do things totally differently to the 'established' ways - many of the group inherited their estates from their parents; their youth means they aim to increase their wines appeal to younger wine drinkers.

Sadly no prices or stockists for the wines listed below; you should harass your local wine merchant to source some of these for you. The quality is top notch.

Continue reading "Bordeaux Oxygene - Some Recommendations" »

5 New Zealand Wines You Really Must Try

Five exceptional wines from New Zealand you really must try, and not a single Sauvignon Blanc amongst them!

White WineVinoptima Gewürztraminer, 2003, Gisborne, New Zealand.
An aged gewürz' with a most beguiling aroma and deep, floral, complex palate. Retail around £19.99. Vinoptima (Latin for 'best wines') is a single variety, 8 hectare estate created by Nick Nobilo in Ormond, near Gisborne on the East Coast of New Zealand's North Island. The aim is to combine the best of concepts from the old world (terroir) and new world (wine making practises) the vision for Vinoptima is simply to produce world class Gewürztraminer.


White WineVilla Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Pinot Gris, 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand.
Refined, spicy, pure delicious Pinot Gris from Villa Maria's premium Single Vineyard range. Retail around £10.99.


White WineGrove Mill Pinot Gris, 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand.
A superbly balanced, smoky, big and rich. Retail around £16. Grove Mill is the world's first CarboNZero certified winery.


White WineEsk Valley Estate Black Label Verdelho, 2006, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand.
A heady 14% alcohol wine packing a mass of lime-citrus flavours and a toast edge. Retail around £8.99. Winemaker Gordon Russell, has established himself as one of New Zealand's most passionate reflected in the huge number of awards his wines have received in tastings and competitions.


Rosé WineJulicher Rosé, 2006, Martinborough, New Zealand.
A lively and lovely strawberry and currant flavour with a little sweetness offsetting the touch of tannin. Retail around £9.50. Made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, just one of five wines available from this small, boutique estate.


Wine Tasting Note: Quinta da Alorna Portal da Águia, 2005, Ribatejo, Portugal

A rummage around the bottom shelves in Oddbins unearthed this little beaut. Forget those crusty old, baked, oxidised, fruitless Portuguese whites of old and embrace this fresh, crisp, plentiful white.

White WineWine Tasting Note: Quinta da Alorna Portal da Águia, 2005, Ribatejo, Portugal.
Oddbins have this for just £4.89.
A steal at this price - local varieties Arinto and Fernão Pires combined into a crisp, lightly herby, peppery-edged white wine with a nice weighty mouth-feel (a touch of sweetness perhaps) and food friendly texture. Citrus and tropical flavours abound with a tweak of spice and grapefruit. The length isn't bad for a wine at this price either. The aromatics of the Fernão Pires come though wonderfully. Alcohol 12.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 92/100

A gorgeously fresh and hefty tuna steak, griddled with a handful of almonds and a dash of sesame oil made a superb accompaniment (served with new potatoes and a pile of fresh spinach).

Quinta da Alorna Portal da Águia


Wine Tasting Note: Danie de Wet Earth and Sky Chardonnay, 2006, Robertson, South Africa

Dinner was Organic Roast Chicken with Oranges and Winter Herbs lifted from the November issue of Delicious served with Baked Onions with Parmesan and Cream (Nigel Slater's Kitchen Diaries) and Petite Pois. The bird is marinaded for 5 or 6 hours with the juice and skins of four oranges plus rosemary and bay leaves, then roasted in the same juices.

The wine, plucked from the shelf for the sole reason that I hadn't seen it before, was an absolute superb accompaniment. You couldn't ask for a better match or a better wine for the price. Superb. And bugger to those who profess to a dislike of Chardonnay! It might not be trendy but it is not classed as a 'noble grape' for nothing!

White WineWine Tasting Note: Danie de Wet Earth and Sky Chardonnay, 2006, Robertson, South Africa.
Waitrose £8.99.
Rich, yet elegant says the rear label. Who am I to argue! Weighty, with superb concentration and balance, coupled with a citric acidity that just set the taste buds a-tingling. While the flavours matched the orange element in the dish, the acidity cut through the richness of the cream/Parmesan - joyous. Alcohol 14.5%. Unwooded.

The website, www.dewetshof.com, lists many Chardonnay's - just not this one. So new that it is not listed on the Waitrose website either. The acidity is going to keep this wine going for a few years - I recommend buying a few bottles; it's what I have done!
Scribblings Rating - 94/100




A Wine for Wagamama's Chilli Beef Ramen - Combinations #7

Coincidentally just a couple of days after selecting this dish as the basis for Combinations #7 the opportunity arose to eat at Wagamama; of course I selected this dish to see how it is supposed to be. At the time I ordered a large glass of white to accompany - an Australian off-dry blend of Gewürztraminer and Riesling which went beautifully. Full-bodied, powerful of flavour and the sweetness a superb match to the dish. Sadly I forget the producer, but it was probably an on-trade only bottling anyway.

Back home I hoped this Viognier from Australia would make another brilliant match. It didn't - quite. While the body and the vibrant flavours were of a type to balance out the fiery chilli in the food and match the teriyaki and sweet chilli the wine's inherent dryness let the side down; but only just.

White WineDuncan MacGillivray Beau Sea Viognier, 2005, Adelaide Hills, Australia.
Available from Oddbins for £9.99.
A gorgoues Australian take on Viognier. Lime is the basis but there is so much more - tropical fruits and more than a dollop of fresh, crisp apple flavours. It has had a touch of oak but this just adds a touch of creamy complexity rather than denuding the wine of fruit. A single vineyard wine which is listed on the Oddbins website as Longview Viognier. The grapes were sourced from Longview's vineyard at Macclesfield in the Adelaide Hills. Screw-capped. Alcohol 14%.

It is a lovely wine, perfectly balanced and just right with the dish, rather than a perfect match (a touch more sweetness required).
Scribblings Rating - 90/100

MacGillivray Viognier




Wine Tasting Note: Terre de Fumée Sauvignon Blanc, 2004, Coteaux du Gennois, Loire, France.

I'm scratching my head desperately trying to recall if I am supposed to be buying a red wine ("Just buy the bloody bottle... it will go fine with the spag-bol") or a white ("Haven't we had enough Sauvignon's this summer?!") and to be honest the selection was a tad disappointing. I'm standing in one of the larger Oddbins and don't know what to buy.

I text Jeanne.. "Is Wine Blogging Wednesday for white Loire or Red?" I ask. The reply is simple and to the point "Loire Whites". Vinography is the host and I'm a day late anyway. My soon to be housemate, he of French origin and prolific swear words (the quotes above are toned down), points out a nicely presented bottle and translates 'Terroir de Silex' as the stone that makes sparkles... I think he means sparks and assume he means flint.. which fits in nicely, if I remember correctly, with the flint and clay soils of the region. But what I hadn't come across before is 'Coteaux de Gennois'. This, the little rear label map helpfully shows, is just north of and on the other side of the river to that most famous of Loire towns, Sancerre.

Wine Tasting Note: Etienne de Loury Terre de Fumée Sauvignon Blanc, 2004, Coteaux du Gennois, Loire, France.
Oddbins £8.99
Rich and quite creamy, spiked through with piercingly clean lemon acidity.Crisp, flavoursome, and nicely aromatic with a combination of herbs, flowers and citrus fruits mirrored on the palate. Strawberry leaf flavoured finish. It's good but would have been even better with a seafood or fish dish. It's a 100% Suavignon Blanc and, apart from being a little richer perhaps and less obviously stony, could pass for a might good quality Sancerre. Alcohol 12.5%.
Scribblings Rating - 94/100

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