The Vilarnau Brut Rosado Cava might lack the weighty mouthful to cope with substantial food but throw a few light nibbles and canapés at it and its fine. A soft, lightly juicy character and those bubbles make this a great end-of-summer aperitif style wine. Something to make a party, not something to delve too deeply into, to philosophise over, it’ll encourage the party atmosphere, not stop the conversation mid-flow like in that ridiculous cheese advert…

Vilarnau Brut Rosado, [Adegga / Snooth] available from Ocado, Winehouse and selected independents is only £10.49, comes in restrained, attractive packaging and for those who need the info is made from Trepat and Pinot Noir with 12.4% alcohol.

Rather than partying-it-up like its 1999, last weekend I cracked this open as a try-out with deep fried squid. I was rather taken with the simplicity of the squid recipe from Niamh’s new cookbook – Comfort and Spice – and this rosé certainly worked, emphasising the heat of the pepper marvellously. Niamh’s recipe calls for chunks of squid, coated in a mix of flour and plenty of hot Sichuan pepper, to be deep fried and served as is. While Dr. Who frightened the youngsters across the country I was dipping my squid in Stokes mayonnaise… and washing it all down with this pink cava. Seems I’m too old to party like its 1999…. Not that I can recall much of 1999…